I think you'll need that washer,,, #4... Other will call me wrong. This is going to sound crazy, I just had the hub CAP, pin and retainer off of mine Sat,,, I just needed to tighten the hub a half spin to adjust for a little slip,,, and there was so much grease packed in there I did SEE the #4 washer,,, but I would guess you'll need that. We'll see what others say.

Check Rock Auto... For a little bit more, considering core,,, a remain set is not that much. Could save you some trouble if there is rust and putting in the bores... That and or the pistons... They look pretty rough my man.

I say let the fluid drain,,, all of it! Then refresh every drop.

 

Oh,,, wait... Which #4??? There are several #4s in that diagram...

That zerk looking grease fitting is interesting. I don't think I have that option... I like the looks of it. Hope I do.

 

ya the zerg fitting. there is no way i have that. unless the rust ate it lol. but ya tonnes of grease. it actually came apart pretty easily once i got a way to get those 5 bolts out the back. Tomorrow I am going to do the right side then order what i need. I'll spend the next few days taking the calipers apart and cleaning everything up with wire brushes etc. might even through some red paint on them if i get time. I know I wont get the parts til early next week anyways. If I can get this all done by the 23rd Ill be happy. then I have to try and get the car to move and turned around to get in position to drop the rear cage. Spring is Here!

 

If the No 4 you refer to is the large washer with a flat on it's inside hole, (no 7 in this diagram)
https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.../brand/jaguar/
then you MUST have one. This is the washer that tightens up the bearings to their correct no-looseness/no-tightness position. The D shaped inner hole prevents the washer turning on the stub axle - which has a flat machined onto it - in service.

 

Hey greg. Ya I have that washer. I was more trying to figure out about the grease fitting because I dont see one/or have one. I'm going to take the passenger side off today then start cleaning everything.

I will inspect it all more today. I wont be taking the pistons out of the calibers til tomorrow though as I'll have to go into work to use the compressor there.

 

Some hubs had grease fittings and some did not. If your does not, just grease up the bearing and that is that.
As to the brake calipers, bung them in the dishwasher when the Management is elsewhere!

 

Haha well I am on vacation this week and wife is working soooo 😈 lol

 

Well 4 hrs yesterday one side. 30 minutes today other side lol.

Time to start cleaning. Lol

 

Good show! I've used a regular old bike tire pump. Work just fine if you can find a way to seal up where the pump hose/nozzle and brake line or bleeder attaches.

 

Well just left the shop at work. Most of the pistons popped out but they have surface rust on them and some pitting. So going to order remags. On a positive not I'm getting 5k back from taxes so I think I'll be ok lol.

So while I wait a week I am gonna go back to working on that transmission linkage and change the oil on my motorcycle 😀

 

Hubs and stuff all cleaned up. Bearings look very good. They must have been replaced at some point. They are koyo bearings. I just need to put the order in and I should have the replacement parts by end of next week. I am going to start tomorrow on that stupid tranny linkage that I cant get back into place. See post earlier. Also need to order lug nutz for all as the original with the plastic caps looked like **** and caps came off anyways. They 1/2 x 20 if I'm right.

Now I have a question. ive done the emergency brake handle.procedure correctly and I think they are siezed in the on position just like all the brakes lol.

What is the best way to disconnect the emergency brakes? Do I just disconnect the cable? Pull the pads out for them? Can I? Once i get the front brakes brake together and working (bleed the lines etc) I want to try and get the rear brakes free so I can hopefully move the vehicle and get it turned around so I can get the rear cage out.

Or if anyone has a better idea let me know.

 

**** ya got that bolt back in....so freaking happy. I can shift using the shifter again....ya me...beers for everyone.

 

The EBrake at the disc is a bit of a devil ta get to while the cage is up and everything else is in place ie, cable and arms, crossover tubing, calipers for rear main brake - and stuff. If I were you I would just start planning now to do the EBrake stuff when you drop the cage... It's really the only way to go, IMHO... Taking the EBrake pads out is a weird angle to get to 4small 8mm (I think) nuts... I would wait until the cage is down. IIRC you said that was next week or next on the list???

 

Well once I get the parts in for the fronts I'm hoping that now that the fron brakes arent stuck I can get the car to move forward. If not I'll figure out how to deal with the rear brakes maybe if I can remove the rear brake pads just so I came free up the rear wheels a bit more it will be enough to turn the car around.

Also just changed the oil in my motorycle so that's ready to go!

 

Yeah! I have an old 86 Goldwing that I'm working to turn into a bobber,,, or a cafe racer. She's stripped down pretty much waiting to be brought back to life. Really really nice machine.

Dude... You might be able to pull the pins and pull out the pads. My rears were dead and (dumbly) I drove her a few number of times with just front brakes that had not enough but sufficient power to hold, stop and move the car around.

With allllll your might,,,, promise yourself right now that you will absolutely resist the temptation to DE press the calipers forcing old fluid and goodness knows what else back into the system... Jus say'n... Someone else might chime in to tell that I'm thinking wrong about it,,, x2,,, but I think it would be a big mistake. If you can run the car at this point it should brake the stuck rears... I think.

 

Ya I'm not gonna do that. I can move the rear wheels by hand with some force. I think it was the front right one that was seriously on there. I'll have to bleed the fronts once it all back together anyways. I'm trying to figure out what to do while I wait for the parts....... maybe I'll clean the rims up, I dont want to do any interior work until its moving and running ok.

Oh well. I'll scroll some posts and see if I get an ideas.

 

Rescue
With the rear brakes, either undo the nipples, or one of the brakelines, or even undo or cut the flexible, then you will not have to worry about pushing fluid back into the M/C. Then you can wrestle out the pads without worrying. Also, disconnect the handbrake cable, as sometimes that hopelessly weak handbrake can work!

 

Ok I'll look into that. Thanks

 

Nice! Not that I knew why I did it,,, but I did the same. Cut the flexible way back when. I didn't even think O that.

 

Well looks like after my next week off I'm working from home for next 2 weeks after that so I should get some progress made.