Well I've spent most of yesterday trying to get the bolt that holds the clamp for the transmission cable that's underneath in that tight spot. It just wont grab. So I figure I'll get at it better when I work on the transmission at a later date. So for now everything else is hooked up so I'm gonna get the car moved around this afternoon. I just got to be careful to make sure I turn it off as it does shift a bit but I got to manually use the lever on the tranny to switch it. So I'll start it gear (I have to push those 2 contacts forward that prevents it from starting in gear I think) and just keep it in first gear. Luckily I can just go down the street a little bit to pull a u turn instead of having to turn it off, then select reverse etc.

I'll try and degrease the engine as best I can today. Once I get it back into the garage I'll put it up on jack stands x 4

I'm gonna work on the engine (may ho as far as removing the heads) then tranny, then front end, then back end. I'm hoping I get that all done by April depending on time and funds.

 

So trying to move the car and I think the brakes are sticking. I no I can turn the lf freely , rf I ca turn by hand but it's hard, lr I can turn my hand but it's hard. Havent tried rr cause I'll check it after. Think it's just the calibers sticking?

 

Almost certainly

But, if it's damp where you are, and you have metallic pads, there might be a little rusting going on...which might free-off if you can somehow rotate the wheels enough.

Cheers
DD

 

Oh there's rust lol. I cant even get the wheel off after taking the lug nuts off lol.

Time for some PB blaster....well tomorrow. I'm done for the day.

 

Hi Rescue

I had the same problem getting one of the Wheels off and had to use a FBH, though a better idea could be to loosen the Wheel Studs and then turn the Steering Wheel from side to side

As for the Stuck Caliper, you could take the disk pads out which I also had to do with a FBH and Chisel but nowadays when I fit New Pads, I always Skim a few thou off the side of the Metal Backing Pad, so they slide in and out dead easy just using your fingers

Skimming the Metal Edges of the Disc Brake Pads for a Perfect Fit and Removing a Stuck Caliper with my Impact Wrench

 

Ya I'm not sure what I'm gonna do. I just read all your steps of removing the rear cage, which was gonna be one of my last things but maybe I should do it first and get it out if the way lol.

I also dont know if the parking brake is applied or not?

Do you think theres a way I can just release the parking brake if they are stuck on? Or how can I tell?

 

So I just went out after reading how to release the parking brake properly. Push button in, hold it in while lifting lever all the way up, and continue to hold it in while bringing it back down. When I did this I heard some noise from the rear end. I tried moving the one wheel I have jacked up and it seems to move a bit more freely but still it's a 2 handed job and you can hear the grinding of the rotors. I'll try the left side tomorrow. Maybe they released! You would think that the engine in first gear would have enough torque to move the car regardless.

Oh and the button doesn't come out. It stays flush with the end but I can push it down into the handle about 1/2 inch.

 

Hello Rescue

The button not sticking out all the way was also pretty standard in the Aussie cars of the 70's. Another trick is to rock the car back and forward. The sea sawing effect can release/loosen the brakes as well

Cheers
Steve

 

If it wasn't in the garage I would have the space to do it lol.

I'll update in a bit to see my outcome.

 

Still barely any movement. Even when in gear and at 3000 rpm. I got it to move a couple of feet but then stopped. Ended up pushing it back into the garage with a 2010 ford edge lol. So I guess now I'm going to put the car up on jack stands (front and rear) and start work on the front end.

My idea is that if I get the front end brakes rebuilt and working I can then remove the rear brake pads and still have enough braking on the front to get the vehicle moved around so i can work on the IRS afterwards.

So now my plan is front end, engine, tranny, interior, exterior.

I got 6 tonne jack stands that go from 12.5 to 18.5 inches. Should give me plenty of room. Need to drop the exhaust to. Plan is to exit in front of rear wheels so dont need the back part of it.

 

Hi Rescue

If you have the Engine Running with the Rear Brake Pads removed, then as soon as you touch the Brakes the Brake Pump will cut in and if left running continuously for over the recommended 30 Seconds, you could burn it out and they are NLA

Even a S/H one could cost you £100

So might be best to do the rear end first, unless you have a very cunning plan?

 

Hello Rescue

This has been the biggest thing for me in getting my car back together is the "what do I attack next" syndrome. If i do a) - then that will affect b). I can't do c) until a) and b) is completed. Whoops - don't have that part and it has to come from country D, what do I do in the meantime?

Sometimes I don't think I am getting anywhere - then i go back through the photo's and I am actually making good progress, which keeps the motivation up. I take photo's of everything - then write up what I have done on a day by day account, something I really recommend.

Regarding the back brakes - agree with OB, but I believe if you disconnect the brake lines to the rear cage and bung them. The system should stay pressurized - giving you front brakes, but no backs.

Once you remove the front wheels - have a good look on top of the K frame for rust - by design - the scuttle area (where the wiper motor sits in front of the windscreen) drains directly over the front suspension, there is a few forum posts where this spot on the K frame rusts as a result of these drains.

Cheers
Steve

 

Hmmm well that's good to know. Maybe spray the whole rear end with pb blaster then. Honestly the front end seems to be in rougher shape than the rear. The rear has normal rust but the front is really rusty. I might do the front end first anyways because of the way it's in my garage now. I dont think I would have enough room to take out the through the back. Hench why I want to get the jag turned around.

Trying to figure a way to free up the brakes without actually tearing apart the brakes. Front not hard it the rear inboards.

Maybe if I can get a long screw driver between the pads and rotor and push the pistons back a bit.

It did roll freely before but when we were off loading it from the trailer my neighbour got scared and hit the brakes.

Do you think I can deactivate the emergency brakes as well? And how?

 

Hi Rescue

That is an Epic NO/NO!

On no account do the Screwdriver thing and try and force the Brake Pads Back, unless you Clamp the Brake Pipes and leave the Bleed Nipples Open, as if you send Brake Fluid back up to the Valves in the Master Cylinder Actuator (especially Old and Contaminated Brake Fluid)

You could do untold damage to the Master Cylinder Actuator and then you would be in real trouble!

 

Sloooooooow down, is my suggestion...
Take it easy. Step at a time...

Rear end and fueling system - to start?
Lots there.

 

Thanks for the tips.

 

Hows this look for front end brake job?

 

Rescue119,

Where do those "caliper bushes" fit? I don't think I recognise those on the front end of an XJS?

Cheers

Paul

 

I dont know that's why I'm asking lol. Maybe the caliper pistons sit inside of them?

 

I'm reading "CALIPER BRUSH", to brush off dust and dirt... They are trying to sell you something extra... Up sell...

If you pop the pistons out of the calipers be very careful on inspection. If the car sat a long time, I think you said it had, the cylinder walls and pistons themselves can be very messy and creating a seal can be tough. Money certainly WAS an object for me,,, but I out and out replaced all four calipers front and back and kept it moving. That IMHO is worth the $$$$. Rock also has a great core charge policy...

Grant has a lot of good things to say about the front end and brakes, bearings, and shims. Not as easy and straightforward as a Corolla by any means.