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Rescue
FYI alternators have what is caled a "clock face", the first one you had was for a fitment with the face for mounting on the other side (assuming bottom fulcrum and top adjuster).
Two goes to a small black box on the RHS fender (load dump module?)
Three goes up the RHS fender then disappears towards the bus bar?
So my picture I drew shows the orginal wiring. Wire one is obvious. 2 and 3 where wired to the same post on the back of the stock 120amp alt.
My new to me cs 130 alt has one post (battery) and a plug with 4 wire as show above.
The alt shop said take the S (sense wire) and run it to the battery post on the back of the alt where #1 wire would go.
The L wire is for the gauge etc.
Ok now this is where I get a little confused. I could wire 2 & 3 to L and 1 to the post on the back with S wire.
But reading this post he suggest to run the S wire to the bus bar? I think he has an older XJS so something us different. Here's a screen shot of his comment and then some other shots of wire.
Factory manual #1 is starter # 77 is battery
Another pic I found online irt xjs alternator wiring
So which way do I go? Also where exactly is the bus bar? Is it the fuse holder of the upper back side of the RHs fender? Under a plastic cap?
Just cut and tape off the wires for F and P. You don't need them.
You do need the S as it tells the alternator what the charge level of the battery is. You can either connect it to the the big lug on the back of the alternator, the bus bar, or to the battery directly. All it does it sense battery voltage. I've been connecting them to the lug on the alternator for years and they work perfectly.
The L goes to the light in the dash. If you don't connect that the alternator won't charge.
Just cut and tape off the wires for F and P. You don't need them.
You do need the S as it tells the alternator what the charge level of the battery is. You can either connect it to the the big lug on the back of the alternator, the bus bar, or to the battery directly. All it does it sense battery voltage. I've been connecting them to the lug on the alternator for years and they work perfectly.
The L goes to the light in the dash. If you don't connect that the alternator won't charge.
The bus bar is on the firewall. If you follow the big cable from the starter it connects to the bus bar on the firewall. There's also a wire running back to the positive terminal on the battery. All the +12 volt feeds come off the bus bars - there is one on each side.
If wire #2 is the one that goes to the dump module - you can pull the dump module. You don't need it with the CS-130.
Is wire #3 a brown wire with a blue tracer? On my '89 that was the wire that went to the alternator dash light. If so, #3 connects to the L(ight) terminal on the alternator. If you send me a link for your wiring diagram I can help you find it.
At the end you should have 3 wires on the alternator. The big heavy one connects to the lug on the alternator. The S(sense) wire also connects to the big lug on the alternator. The L(ight) wire connects to the wire that goes to the instrument cluster.
The bus bar is on the firewall. If you follow the big cable from the starter it connects to the bus bar on the firewall. There's also a wire running back to the positive terminal on the battery. All the +12 volt feeds come off the bus bars - there is one on each side.
If wire #2 is the one that goes to the dump module - you can pull the dump module. You don't need it with the CS-130.
Is wire #3 a brown wire with a blue tracer? On my '89 that was the wire that went to the alternator dash light. If so, #3 connects to the L(ight) terminal on the alternator. If you send me a link for your wiring diagram I can help you find it.
At the end you should have 3 wires on the alternator. The big heavy one connects to the lug on the alternator. The S(sense) wire also connects to the big lug on the alternator. The L(ight) wire connects to the wire that goes to the instrument cluster.
Yes, and the prongs on the radiator bottom go into the rubber bungs.
Ok thought so.
One more thing I touched up today
Also I went to rad shop. They don't do custom fab but I got a name of a person who does. So I'm going to get a shroud built to match the factory size and then I'll put 2 e fans in it.
I did find some aussie ones from the falcon but they wouldnt ship to Canada
Done for the day.
Got a guitar delivered (I'm just startingl so I'm gonna cool off and play with that lol
Back to work tomorrow but I have made great progress last few days.
I would suggest replacing it. The desiccant inside the drier loses it's ability to absorb moisture over time - that's why you should replace the drier each time you open the system. If the dryer can't absorb any residual moisture in the system it rots the entire system from the inside out.
New ones are very reasonably priced.
I would suggest replacing it. The desiccant inside the drier loses it's ability to absorb moisture over time - that's why you should replace the drier each time you open the system. If the dryer can't absorb any residual moisture in the system it rots the entire system from the inside out.
New ones are very reasonably priced.
I'll look at doing that when/if I get the a/c serviced.
I do not think 2 x12 inchers will be big enough. SPALs for sure, nothing else will do; but I have found that you need the big fan to draw about 25 amps (amp useage is a more reliable measure of real world cooling ability). You can squeeze in a 16 incher and a 12 incher. BUT controlling them is the key, what are you planning?
I do not think 2 x12 inchers will be big enough. SPALs for sure, nothing else will do; but I have found that you need the big fan to draw about 25 amps (amp useage is a more reliable measure of real world cooling ability). You can squeeze in a 16 incher and a 12 incher. BUT controlling them is the key, what are you planning?
New dryer is essential by the way.
For control I was thinking (if possible) that for the 2 x 12s that they would be both on at half speed for normal running. Then one would be on full speed based on the water pump temp sensor and then the 2nd would go full speed with the a/c.
Then you need a fan controller - I have yet to find a satisfactory off the shelf item. I built my own variable speed and sequencer using an Arduino the goal being soft start and load based sequence and speed, I have bench tested and it works though I've not tested it in anger yet so I'm sure theres more to learn - I have a 15 and a 12. The fans are Comex which I'm sure will raise an eyebrow or two.
