Ignore the schizo camera view its the audio I'd like a second opinion on. I'm assuming the bearings are starting to go at a minimum.

Front passenger side tire has severe wear on inside - replacing tire asap, has some play when jacked up maybe almost 1/4" when rocking the top/bottom, car naturally pulls considerably to that side when driving causing an irritating steering wheel wobble. In addition the brakes often violently jerk to that side, sometimes to the other if the car is in a spontaneous murder-suicide mood.

I'm familiar with the Epic Sagas of OrangeBlossom's brake issues so that was my first thought but I'm wondering if this time my 89' ABS system isn't the main fault - though the valve block probably does need to be cleaned/tested again and the wiring checked... it feels like a stuck caliper almost but not quite? and there is no metallic burning smell on that side after driving (yet)

 

That sounds to me like the brake disc being scraped by something.
Remove the wheel and look as a start. The play may be any one of:

• bearings failing
• bearings adjusted too loose
• stub axle wear
• top or bottom ball joint failing
• loose wishbone top bearings/bolts.

As to the brake snatching problem, that is a separate issue, but highly likely to be malfunctioning Teves system.
Tyre wear is alignment, but misalignment is guaranteed by loose wheel location, so fix that first and then check for toe, camber and castor.

 

Interesting scenario. Greg is keen to point out you likely have two discrete failure points, one with suspension components and one with the brake system and they are not related in anyway other that the fact that they both exist as 2 failures on one system known as the vehicle. So in this case mostly what you need to appreciate is that it didn't leave the factory like this so something is a-miss. Your quest is to figure it out. There are basically 2 ways to do that.

1. Though parts at it, replace everything involved. (AKA Parts Cannon) This is not a bad strategy should you NOT want to invest the time involved in option 2, while simultaneously holding a money no object disposition where you hold you time as more valuable than money. Surely in the process of replacing all the parts the defective part will reveal itself. This is the preferred process of most custom shops, many higher end Youtubers where their time is valuable and their knowledge of complex system is not. Many new car dealerships now employ this strategy by simply replacing major assembles instead of doing component repairs. This strategy is often taken to the extreme. I've known people who just buy a new car instead of waiting the week or so it would take to get theirs repaired, the ultimate parts cannon scenario, just replace the whole car as a transportation object.

2. Disassemble and inspect everything and replace items as needed. This is also a good strategy but it requires time, the understanding and experience to know what you are looking at and how it all works together. Specifically you'll need the ability to identify the difference between a slightly worn bushing and its veracity compared to a new one based on more than just a first glance. Same for ball joints, tie rods etc. All these are difficult to test off the car or by hand unless you have the knowledge, skills and time to re-create test and failure scenarios in the lab (garage). Sometime you get lucky and failure points reveal themselves at first glance but it's necessary to get yourself in the position to have a clear and good glance and proper inspection.

 

The 1/4" wobble needs fixing - and that's covered in Greg's post #2 above.

If its bearing or stub axle wear, then the distance between the disc and brake pad is variable, which may lead to brake issues. I'd fix the play first and go from there.

Suggestion: Remove the wheel and run through the first part of Greg's list. Report back how it goes.

HTH, Dave

 

Update:

Didn't bother with this too much just took it to the shop first for a new set of very fat thick meaty winter tires that probably test the limits of what the stock height will allow, and it appears all my problems have vanished just like that. I will still jack it up in a day or two and see about the wheel bearing play or whatever that may be but as for braking and veering into the ditch in a murder-suicide pact the car is back to it's usual self of only sometimes doing this, which I've come to deal with over the years. Car feels extremely well planted in the road not nimbly wobbly bullshit like before...I wouldn't think tires made that much of a difference but here we are.

Maybe next time I'll get custom taller heavier springs and spacers for even fatter tires it seems to work better especially in the Canadian climate.