I’m looking at a 1994 XJS with the 4.0L I6 FI. Odometer reads just under 94,000. It is white with tan top and interior. I haven’t seen it in person yet. Hoping to get a response regarding what to look for during inspection, known issues for 1994 and general feelings about reliability of this year and model. Thanks.

 

Simple things to look for:
1. Steady Idle. 580rpm warm and in gear. 720 rpm in park.
2. Air conditioning work?
3. Cruise control work?
4. Look for leaks.
5. Smell any fuel in the trunk?

 

So other than that it is a pretty reliable car? Or can I expect expensive repairs?

 

To add to what Vee said . . .
Personally, I'm more concerned with the condition of wood trim, leather, and paint.
The mechanical issues are usually less expensive to fix than bad paint etc.
A '94 with the AJ6 is as reliable as you can get and it's relatively easy to work on.
What's the asking price? Location?

 

An XJS built in late 93 or early 94 - it's not going to be a problem with the engine. Any issues there are unlikely or resolvable. You want to be far more concerned with checking the integrity of the bodywork, the aircon, the radiator and the ABS braking system. Those are the areas that are potential costs, specifically the bodywork.

Good luck with your choice

Paul

 

I own a couple of 1994 4.0s and the biggest issue is that theyve not tattered. With any fuel smell, they do tend vent when parked, but they never do while driving. The AJ6 is the best part of it. With low miles, interior should be almost new. Check the color of the brake fluid and see if its been constantly cared for. Bushings are toast by now if still running on original rubber. Sounds like a good car. My coupe has 230k miles on it and still running strong. Dont be alarmed if you get white smoke out the pipes when you start it up at times. All of my AJ6 cars do that even with my low mileage XJ40 sitting at 70k miles. Its their slant 6 design, the valve stem seals leak into the exhaust side and it burns off upon start up. It shouldnt be puffing once you burn the bit that seeps through when resting. Make sure temps dont exceed the middle of the gauge.

 

Learn a lot more about the car. While that is among the most reliable of all Jaguars. If you drive into a dealership with no knowledge dealerships do know how to separate you from your money.
It is prudent to replace all the engine rubber especially fuel hoses. But if original that rubber is 28 years old. And overdue to fail. It’s also past time the plugs were changed. Oil was changed, transmission fluid changed, and antifreeze changed. It’s also over due to flush the brake system. Unless you see paperwork actually indicating those tasks have been done it is best to assume they haven’t.
That’s not going to be cheap but it must be done.
It’s extremely rare that sellers will do all of that for the next owner.
But if not done that 28 year old hose will burst and spray fuel all over the engine with a fire sure to result. If your lucky one of the vacuum hoses with crack and cause the engine to run rough. Or a radiator/ heater hose rupture and cause the engine to overheat.
It should be done every 10 years to be safe.
Oil changed every 3 months or 3000 miles. Transmission fluid changed at 60,000 miles coolant replaced every 2 years.

 

Im going to say that an XJS is not a cheap car to own if you’re not familiar with them. With that said I bought my first one when they were in the gutter and I only made 25k a year. I was broke and I spent evenings working on the little things. Its the other stuff that will get you thinking that you made a mistake. This is not a cheap car to run if its been mistreated. My coupe cost me $2500 and it ran for 15 miles. Then the fuel pump went out. The Jag mechanic I was forced to use in the area charged me $1400 to replace the pump because its a real PITA. Either way I felt the pain. Then I had to Brakes and Rotors at $700, then a new windshield, finally I redid the entire interior because it was tattered. That cost me $2700. Then the steering rack went bye bye, another $1200. And then the suspension needed new rubber and shocks, another $2500. So my cheap XJS slowly climbed up. Ive lost track of how much I spend on things at this point, so keep it all in mind. An XJS can bite, but often theyre very happy and great to look at. Be wise.

 

I guess I'm gonna be the glass half full kinda guy.

The 6 cylinder engine is WAY easier to work on than the 12 cylinder. There's just so much room in the engine bay!

That being said, the fuel pump is the only PITA job that should occur at about the 200k mile mark. Some people go much longer, some go a little bit less.

The rest of the car is relatively straightforward to work on. The fuel hose issue that Mguar referred to is a v12 issue. There is one coolant hose under the intake manifold that is a known problem on this car, only because it is hidden and often times ignored when replacing coolant hoses. If it bursts, it is catastrophic, but once replaced, you have a clean bill of health for 100k miles, maybe more? It's certainly a hose that can be replaced by a DIYer, like I said, it's just something that is often overlooked. I'd chalk up hose replacement as a recommendation, although you really don't hear of too many 6 cylinders blowing a hose....but since they are old it should be replaced, especially if still running on the originals. But again, nothing that wouldn't be recommended for ANY 30 year old used car purchase.

As far as replacing plugs and wires? Easy and parts are not anymore expensive than any other car. Same for fluids. Buying any used car would require replacing fluids so that you start at a known point with the car. Again, v12s have a weird burping method for coolant, but the 6 cylinders are as standard as it gets. Fluids are off the shelf and easy to find.

I'm not aware of vacuum hoses being a known problem on the 6 cylinders. The rubber suspension parts will indeed be old, and in need of replacement. The parts are available, not outrageously expensive and with the exception of the lower control arm bushings, easy to get to and certainly doable for a DIYer, or someone willing to learn.

Lastly, the radiator and AC. AC parts are available, and again, not outrageously expensive, and all easily accessible for the DIYer. The evaporator is the only part that is difficult to reach, because it requires dashboard removal, which is a PITA, like the fuel pump. Both are still completely doable by someone with enough time and patience though.

 

Two months ago this hose burst on my AJ16 engine.

 

They don't call it the ******* hose for no reason...

 

Hopefully the OP gets an idea of what to watch out for when buying and running a 4.0L Jag inline six. On both occasions I was already committed to buying one as long as it ran and drove like its suppose to when going for a test drive. The rest is dedication to keep it running as intended. Ive been driving old Jags since the 90s and most people have told me that I have big cojones for owning them. Its their way of feeling envious but definitely sorry for me. So be smart and buy a proper 4.0