i have remover the front suspension entirely and dropped the main cross member supporrt to replace the oil pan gaskets, sandwich gaskets and all other rubber mounts seals, motors pumps, Etc. and sent everything out for powder coating and installation of new nuts, bolts seals Etc. to paint the engine bay the original white paint. What is the best sequence in reassembly of the front suspension? I would like to install the main crossmember supporting the engine and start the installation if the new suspension and other parts. Or would it be easier to rebuild the front suspension system on the ground and raise it into place on the car?

 

It's only my opinion but if you took it out all assembled I would be inclined to do everything that you want while it's out. It would be a lot easier to work on much of it while it's out in the wide open.
Interestingly the ROM suggests when working on the rear brakes to drop the cage which seems a daunting task but it's not really. I once replaced a rear caliper and both emergency brake pads on our '88 H&E from under the car on my back and the whole job including brake bleeding took me eight hours. That was 15 years ago and while under the back end I noticed how easily the exhaust would come apart and the whole cage would come out. Would have made my work much easier and less painful.
Obviously front end work isn't quite as laborious as the inboard rear brakes but it still would be a lot easier with everything else out of the way for sure. Just my two cents which isn't worth much.

 

The inner bushings on the lower wishbones need to be done with the subframe out of the car. Or at least with the subframe lowered. So do those now.
Depending on your choice of spring compressor, you may want to install the springs before adding the subframe to the car. You need a fair bit of vertical clearance below the spring pan if you're using the factory tool.
Other than that, I don't think it makes much difference. But once you have the springs in you'll need to install the upper wishbone and the vertical piece that connects the two fairly quickly. An unrestrained spring can pop out with lethal force.

 

The entire assembled front subframe is very heavy. I incline to doing

• the wishbones and installing the rack off car,
• then mounting the subframe onto the chassis,
• then installing uprights to the wishbones (the piece that the hub is fixed to),
• then the springs and shocks, you must have a safe tool to do the springs or use the four rod method,
• then doing the brakes and steering arms and connecting the arms to the rack,
• then the anti roll bar links.

Install the anti roll bar itself to the chassis before you mount the subframe as access is far easier.

 

Thank you for the ideas. I think I will go with Greg's procedure due to the wight. I am having an issue in getting some of the correct parts, I have a 1989.5 year non-sports pac. XJS convertible Vin (157055). I have the standard front anti roll-bar that measures approximately 7/8" OD and the original rubber bushing ID diameter of 1". I do not see any colored markings on the bushings. The bushings I received have a ID diameter.78". The outside diameter is the same as the original except my original bushing has raised ends to avoid the bushing from sliding from one side to the other side of the strap. There are several bushings to choose from but most of the parts in the catalog do not include detailed information including dimensions. Does anyone know the correct part number for the bushings? I also received (2) lower rack arms that do not have a hole in the end of the bolt and the split nut for tie wire to lock the nut into place. The rod comes without a hole and comes with a nylock nut. I this the new installation that is being used and is it safe? I also received (4) steel shims for the two lower front spring cup and (2) nylon shims for the upper spring cups. My original installation had (2) nylon shims for each of the top cup for the springs and no steel plates in the lower spring cup holder.that I remember or have.It is my understanding that the two steel shimes in the bottom pad are to give mor camber into the car. How many steel shims and nylon shims should be installed? Are the springs to be rotated in a specific placement?

 

Did you by chance buy a kit for all the suspension bushings? I did, and the antiroll bar bushings were incorrect in the same manner as yours. The 3/4" ones are for an XJ6. I think everything else is interchangeable between the cars, aside from that one part. I got the kit from SNG Barratt, but when I ordered the individual bushings from them they were the correct size.