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Silicone Squirt

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Old 05-15-2011, 09:18 PM
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Default Silicone Squirt

I know, it sounds pornographic but it involves the ignition system. Kirby Palm, among others, highly suggests everyone perform a procedure, which he calls a silicone squirt. THe procedure involes removal of the distributor cap and rotor and cutting off the hexagonal stub that inserts into the asterisk shaped hole on the bottom of the rotor and then filling the hole with silicone before reinstallation. The stub is metal and approximately 1/4" thick. The work space is slightly crowded on account of all the plug wires. Any suggestions for how to cut the stubb off? I was hoping I could find a metal disc saw that would attach to my drill but haven't come accross one. I've been told that a Dremal (sp?) would probably have an adequete attachment, but I'd rather not buy a $50.00 tool right now. Any one performed this procedure before? Advice? Seems like there should be an attachment for the drill. Thanks!

Everyone had a safe and bleassed week!
 
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Old 05-16-2011, 08:09 AM
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I'm almost sure a Dremal would work, but other then that tool, I don't know of any others that have the ability to get into small places, such as a distributor. I do have a question for you, What is the purpose of removing the metal rod, what problem does it solve?????
 
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Old 05-16-2011, 08:15 AM
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Maybe you could just buy the Dremel cut-off attachment and chuck it into your drill? That would only cost you a couple of dollars.
 
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Old 05-16-2011, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by 93greenconv
I'm almost sure a Dremal would work, but other then that tool, I don't know of any others that have the ability to get into small places, such as a distributor. I do have a question for you, What is the purpose of removing the metal rod, what problem does it solve?????
Yeah, I'm almost certain a Dermal tool would work, but it just seems like there should be a drill bit that would do the job.

From my understanding (which is limited, btw), the metal stub (rod) is only there to help you line up the rotor when installing it, but it really isn't necessary since there are only two screws which are easy to align. The problem with the stub is that it conducts electricity that is running through the rotor and often serves to "burn up" the rotor itself. Kirby says to cut it all the way off, right down to the base of the rotor mount, so as to prevent rotor failure. Supposedly, there are zero reports of rotor failure after this procedure is performed.
 
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