Or buy long bolts that are only threaded at the end.

 

Very similar to what l made. I used a suitably sized replacement ball arrangement for tractor hitch at the pan, allows change of angle but guide rods in lower wishbone are still essential.
Remains a very scary task though when you realise just how much energy is stored in those springs.

 

Yup!

A word of advise....not trying to sound preachy, mind you.

One of the times that I had a spring go wild on me was on a job I was really struggling with. Everything was fighting me. I was tired and frustrated....and getting careless.

I *should* have known to call it a day and get a fresh start in the morning.

When safety is involved you should be working with a clear head.

Cheers
DD

 

One of those on the loose would bring new meaning to "a clear head"

 

Bought some rod today... 1000 mm of M20, 4 nuts and 2 washers. Works nice though it is quite nerve wrecking. And I don't understand how Jaguar can fit such long springs in those areas and then still have a super soft suspension setup!

My springs had also fused together with the pan. That was a fight to get them separated!

 

POR15 on the spring pans before you re-assemble will stop this happening again

 

Hey guys, thanks for the explanation. I'd like to attempt the spring replacement and get some sanity check from your side.

Is this all I need?

1. 4x M10 rods (how long do they need to be?)
   Amazon
   Amazon
2. 4x M10 nuts (long)
   Amazon
   Amazon
3. A specialized M10 hexagonal adapter which has the length of my rods so I can use the electric drill

Why would I need another big rod in the middle of it all as shown on your pictures? Just to move the lower spring pan around?

Thank you.

 

Metric won't work. You need UNF to fit the lower control arm threaded bolt holes, at least Grade 5, Grade 8 would be better. With the 4 rod method, you don't need anything in the center.

 

@jal1234 thanks for your quick reply.

I want to go with the "4 rod method".

What size and style of rod is needed?
From https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.../brand/jaguar/
I see that the #12 "Flange head bolt" with parts no. JFB11011E, but I don't know size or type of the ripples on the bolt.

 

3/8-24 UNF is the thread type.

 

Thank you, and how long will these rods have to be?

 

Would something like this be okay? 30 cm length rods with 3/8-24 UNF: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271933379...8AAOSw~gRVqmgh

 

The length is OK, but they don't seem to mention the strength. Like I said, at least Grade 5, grade 8 preferred. You might need to find an industrial supplier. That's what I did in the US.

 

They will be fine. BUT for 100% safety, also install a long threaded rod (say 14 mm diameter) with a nut each end through the spring plate and up through the hole in the subframe inverted bell at the top of the spring. You can get your hand in behind the subframe, between it and the inner wing, to screw on the nut. Place a nut on the bottom about a foot down from the pan.
Then, if something gives way, the spring CANNOT escape.

 

Thank you. I also see threads https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...pressor-82083/ and https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...estion-230004/ have some info on the original jaguar spring compressor which just is a big rod in the middle. Saving here for future reference.

 

Hi
In Holland : https://www.metaalreus.nl/draadeinde...n-3-8-unf.html. At least the quality is spicified : Grade 5
Personally i don't like th 4 rod method and made my own single big rod tool with grade 9 (europe: 12.9) M20 ...

 

I have the JEC tool, and like the Jaguar tool, it is a central rod-type. But both these compressors also use (two or three) rods to get the spring pan back in the correct position on refitting the spring. Without the rods inserted into the lower wishbone threaded holes and guiding the spring pan back to its exact position, it is impossible to adjust the spring pan to the correct position to insert the bolts into the wishbone. Remember that when the spring and pan are compressed centrally, the pan does not rise up level with the wishbone, it is tilted by the fact that the spring is designed so as not to compress evenly by the suspension, but rather in a curve. I have always assumed that this is to provide a degree of progressiveness to the suspension on compression, as at first, mainly, only the outer part of the spring gets compressed on bump. In fact, when I do the front springs, which I have done, for various reasons far too many times, I use the central JEC tool to get the plate up so far, and then finish off with the rods, as this I find the easiest way to ensure the plate gets into exactly the right position to replace the rods by the fixing bolts.
As far as safety is concerned, providing there is a safety system (a central rod or a strong tie for example) the four rod method is very easy and effective; after all once installed, there are only the six 3/8 fixings holding the spring on when throwing the car about on the road!

 

If you want to speed things up on the disassemble side of this job, cut the old springs in a few places with a cutting torch before removing the six pan bolts. springs fall out in pieces. Saves wear and tear on clamping tool. make sure you have new springs in stock.

Thank you.

Larry Louton