Ball joint and spring removal
#1
Ball joint and spring removal
I've ordered 4 new springs and ball joints this past weekend, they should be coming sometime in the next few days. Does anybody have a diagram on how to tackle this job? I'm just going to assume its not as simple as my Ford Taurus. Any info would be greatly appreciated!
#2
The setup is not the same as a X308 . Keep backing away from mine . Spray some penetrating oil days before as the bottom 4 bolts corrode and most likely need replacing like mine and they are very high grade steel . The large center nut on top will come out with many many turns with a closed end wrench
Parts list item # 16 below :
https://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/u...pper-and-lower
Also tips from others as there are more if you google :
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...acement-43308/
Parts list item # 16 below :
https://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/u...pper-and-lower
Also tips from others as there are more if you google :
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...acement-43308/
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 03-30-2018 at 07:52 PM.
#3
There are some good guides in here about how to tackle the rear springs. Basically two different approaches, both work, and no undue difficulty beyond perhaps the odd reluctant nut.
The front ball joints are straightforward enough, but note where the spacers are located, and put them back in the same place.
The front springs require the a robust spring compressor, and the job is actively dangerous without it. The springs are under a lot of pressure, and are designed to sit with a noticeable curve in them. Normal spring compressors are not suitable.
The front ball joints are straightforward enough, but note where the spacers are located, and put them back in the same place.
The front springs require the a robust spring compressor, and the job is actively dangerous without it. The springs are under a lot of pressure, and are designed to sit with a noticeable curve in them. Normal spring compressors are not suitable.
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Lady Penelope (03-31-2018)
#4
There is a way shown on here of dropping the spring pan down slowly using lengths of threaded bar, in the absence of the correct spring compressor this method works well although it is quite time consuming to drop the pan slowly and equally.
This is the method I have just used to take the front springs out and found it surprisingly easy although slow.
Others will suggest making a compressor which I did consider however I already had the materials on hand to do it this way.
I couldn't see a problem this way but would be happy to hear any views shared about any potential issues with this method.
I will echo the statement that ordinary compressors just won't do though.
This is the method I have just used to take the front springs out and found it surprisingly easy although slow.
Others will suggest making a compressor which I did consider however I already had the materials on hand to do it this way.
I couldn't see a problem this way but would be happy to hear any views shared about any potential issues with this method.
I will echo the statement that ordinary compressors just won't do though.
#5
I have used the threaded bar method a number of times in the past without issue. In fact I invented the approach back in 1997 on an an XJ40.
In those days the genuine Jaguar tool (JD115) was around £230 (probably equivalent to about £330 today) which was prohibitive for me.
That tool is now superseded and the genuine tool can be had for less than £90 direct from Bosch. I bought one last year and the service/delivery was excellent. Here's the link to the tool.
https://jlrequipment.service-solutio...px?SKU=204-111
If it's for a one off job then you could easily sell it on for £50 so it's a bargain.
In those days the genuine Jaguar tool (JD115) was around £230 (probably equivalent to about £330 today) which was prohibitive for me.
That tool is now superseded and the genuine tool can be had for less than £90 direct from Bosch. I bought one last year and the service/delivery was excellent. Here's the link to the tool.
https://jlrequipment.service-solutio...px?SKU=204-111
If it's for a one off job then you could easily sell it on for £50 so it's a bargain.
#6
Join Date: Oct 2013
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G'day BT95,
Below is an extract from a post I made years ago when I had my front suspension out of the car for a re-build.
"For this you need a spring compressor. I made one out of a large threaded rod and several large washers and a nut and a short piece of hi-tensile bolt shaft (33mm long). The anchor point at the top of the spring turret has a notch aligned with the axis of the car. You can insert a threaded rod up through the spring pan and into the turret but it’s almost impossible to get a rod through the hole in the top of the threaded rod as the spring coils are in the way. There must be a way I thought and I ran it across the solution in a Jag World article and it is quite simple. The top end of the threaded rod needs to have a short piece of rod inserted into the hole in it before it is passed up through the spring pan and the turret, it is then turned 90 degs to fit into the aforementioned notch. Have a look at the pix it will be a little clearer. "
Below is an extract from a post I made years ago when I had my front suspension out of the car for a re-build.
"For this you need a spring compressor. I made one out of a large threaded rod and several large washers and a nut and a short piece of hi-tensile bolt shaft (33mm long). The anchor point at the top of the spring turret has a notch aligned with the axis of the car. You can insert a threaded rod up through the spring pan and into the turret but it’s almost impossible to get a rod through the hole in the top of the threaded rod as the spring coils are in the way. There must be a way I thought and I ran it across the solution in a Jag World article and it is quite simple. The top end of the threaded rod needs to have a short piece of rod inserted into the hole in it before it is passed up through the spring pan and the turret, it is then turned 90 degs to fit into the aforementioned notch. Have a look at the pix it will be a little clearer. "
#7
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Crossroads of America
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I've ordered 4 new springs and ball joints this past weekend, they should be coming sometime in the next few days. Does anybody have a diagram on how to tackle this job? I'm just going to assume its not as simple as my Ford Taurus. Any info would be greatly appreciated!
Just so we don't give you inaccurate replies, how about sharing with us the year and model of your Jaguar?
In fact, it's a great idea to visit your User Control Panel (User CP link above) and edit your signature to add the year, model and engine of your Jag so it's visible in all your posts.
Cheers,
Don
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#8
I have used the threaded bar method a number of times in the past without issue. In fact I invented the approach back in 1997 on an an XJ40.
In those days the genuine Jaguar tool (JD115) was around £230 (probably equivalent to about £330 today) which was prohibitive for me.
That tool is now superseded and the genuine tool can be had for less than £90 direct from Bosch. I bought one last year and the service/delivery was excellent. Here's the link to the tool.
https://jlrequipment.service-solutio...px?SKU=204-111
If it's for a one off job then you could easily sell it on for £50 so it's a bargain.
In those days the genuine Jaguar tool (JD115) was around £230 (probably equivalent to about £330 today) which was prohibitive for me.
That tool is now superseded and the genuine tool can be had for less than £90 direct from Bosch. I bought one last year and the service/delivery was excellent. Here's the link to the tool.
https://jlrequipment.service-solutio...px?SKU=204-111
If it's for a one off job then you could easily sell it on for £50 so it's a bargain.
That was my prefered option and after I found that link was going to do the same, unfortunately they wouldnt sell it to me, they would only sell it to trade on production of a vat number.
I am self employed but that wasn't enough !!
Back to the threaded rod idea !
#9
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