So I picked up a supercharger XJ6 I6 engine for 200$ and I am trying to get her going to keep it or sell it
Car is automatic
will crank in any gear selection which I find to be a clue
quick wiff of starting fluid brings no sputter of life
Inertia switch had been popped, reset no change
Only code is for the Throttle Positioning Sensor

Have not taken anything apart yet I was hoping for some insight and maybe a link to some helpful Factory Service Manual info

I know not to test for spark the old fashioned way due to coil packs,
I do want to pull a spark plug after cranking and check for gas, maybe changing all 6 isn't a bad idea
I would also like to troubleshoot the crank position sensor/ clean it up or replace if it is cheap enough

Could you all help compile a checklist of parts to go over

Previous owner also said he hit a curb hard (hard enough to crack a rim) I assume that is what threw the switch and possibly what is messing with the transmission shifter safety

Thank you all have a wonderful evening!

1996 XJR 4.0L S/C

 

Hi Bob,

Welcome to the Jaguar Forums! It's great to have you with us.

I have moved your post from the forum for the X350 to the forum for the X300, which is the Jaguar factory project code for your 1996 XJR. Here you will find knowledgeable owners of similar cars.

Please use your User Control Panel (User CP link above left) to add your Jag's year, model and engine details to your signature so they show up in all your posts. I edited your initial post for the benefit of others reading this thread.

I'm trying to make sense of your report by putting things in chronological order. Is this correct?:

1. The car was running when the previous owner hit a curb hard enough to crack a rim.

2. The inertia switch was tripped, and your assumption is that this occurred when the car hit the curb.

3. When you purchased the car it was not running.

4. After purchasing the car, you discovered the starter will crank the engine with the gear selector lever in any gear position.

5. You have tried a "quick whiff" of starting fluid but the engine will not start. Have you tried more than a quick whiff, such as two short bursts? If your starting fluid contains a lubricant, are you injecting the fluid after the MAFS to reduce the chances of fouling it?

Your title says "No spark after P.O. pressure washed the engine bay." When did the pressure-washing occur? Before or after the curb event? Was the engine running just prior to the pressure-washing?

Since your post seems to indicate that you have not actually tested for spark, are we to understand that the "No spark" in the title is a working hypothesis?

I assume you have not yet checked the fuel pressure?

Can you give us the exact code you scanned that related to the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)?

Here are links to some helpful documents to start your reference library:

Jaguar X300 Workshop Manual

Jaguar X300 Electrical Guide 1996

Jaguar X300 DTC Summaries 1996/97

Cheers,

Don

 

Hey thanks for the help getting me in the right section Don!

From the sounds of it they pressure washed it after they hit the curb, they had said it ran rough after the pressure washing so i do not think they drove it afterwards.

I have not tested for spark in a for sure method all I have done is a quick 2 spurts of starting fluid which tells me from a troubleshooting stand point that there is an issue with no spark or no spark timing, which isn't to say that there may not be a fuel issue as well since I have yet to unbolt anything such as a coil pack and spark plug to see if there's been any fuel going in.

I would love to test for spark however I am used to working on old small block chevy/ford type gassers or small engines. I am not educated in troubleshooting practices for new gas engines using coil packs on each individual plug and would like to not ruin any parts in the process.

The starting fluid i use is lubricated and for gas/diesel, I use the stuff sparingly in any situation due to how it washes oil, explosive capabilities,

As for fuel no I would need to know the range fuel PSI it runs and make a gauge for it, I am not set up for testing rail pressures at home just hydraulic pressures and i do not think that test port is the same size haha.

Thank you for the list of sources I greatly appreciate it I don't like digging into foreign (to me) type engineering without some reading so I really appreciate it !

 

Put your finger on the fuel # 1 pump relay and feel for it to click 2 times , on 4 seconds then off as the key is in the on before start position to prime the fuel rail with a charge . It will click a 3rd time on again once the ECU sees engine rotation through the Crankshaft position sensor . The fuse for the # 1 pump is the green one # 7 / 30 amp trunk fuse box . There is Fuel pump relay control circuit fuse below the rear seat foot area but feel for the click first .

The ECU will fail below about 11.5 volts on the battery .

Recommend leaving the Camshaft sensor alone for now . It will start without it but takes more revolutions .

Don't rev past 2000 in park as this is a Jaguar TSB .

You have 2 fuel pumps ( # 7 relay ) on the S/C engine to play with . The # 2 is not commanded on until 4000 RPM . But you can trick it as a troubleshooting tool .

The fuel pressure trapped by the FPR is 43 PSI at idle but is a pain to find fittings . It hisses alot .

From what I understand the inertia switch in front of the ECU does not always reset and can jumper the 2 white wires on the connector .

There is a fuse for all coils and is # 12 / 10 mp RH Engine fuse box , # 1 is closest to the large terminal post .

There is a phenomena where if the AJ16 engine sits a long time you'll need to restore compression for a light off . 2 easy ways to restore this .

 

There is no issue in testing for spark in the traditional way. Pull the coil, pull the plug and stick in the coil pack and provide a ground (jump lead) to the plug, then crank and watch.


I'd also do a compression test early on for an unknown history no start car. Could prevent hours of heartache chasing fueling and sparking issues.

 

So could one bypass the inertia switch for troubleshooting purposes easily enough? This is the switch under the glove box correct?

And to restore compression, I have heard of people pouring a little bit of oil in the spark plug holes and letting it sit for like 30 mins is that true?

 

Which by the way apologies this is a 1994 X300 supercharged inline 6 with an auto and the two round headlights and rounded headlight curves all the way up the hood., i was incorrect when I originally made this post, some good folks in the welcome forum helped me out there. Also has a P1792 code popping up for ignition malfunction, I am not finding much as to what the cause of this code is, but more of lists of OBD2 codes...

Again apologies I wanted to make sure we are talking about the correct model/year here before we get to far into this. Dodge and Ford trucks are much easier its year and what ton rating.... First real car other than a civic

 

Yes on the inertia switch .

Least intrusive ring seal rejuvenation is to hold the throttle all the way down as this cuts off the injectors and recoats the cylinder walls .

Or pull the plugs and add some oil treatment . turn the engine over with the fuel pump off and let it sit to lossen the rings

By a unsuccessful light off you will put it in this condition called a bore wash

The X300 will have 6 pleats up the hood around each of the 4 headlights and 2 in the center of the hood . You know why ? ...............................Because she's special , just ask her . There re some X40,s with the round headlight and the rectugler taillights . The X300 will always have the triangler taillights