So I think both of my window motors basically crapped out. I have them on switches, and they worked fairly well for a while, then my left one started acting up. It ended up stopping all together, then my right one just decided to stop working too. I'm getting power at the connectors, but no motion. I did have an issue with my right one before, and removed the rubber buffer inside, and it started working fine before. I put them on switches because they worked intermittently at best in auto. Has anyone found a new motor that will fit and work, even if it means adding a different connector?

 

Figured I'd bump this up to see if anyone has found an alternative for the quarter windows yet. I took mine to a local shop to see what they could do, but I'd rather just get new motors. There has to be one that will bolt in, even if it means swapping out the gear and splicing the wires

 

When you do get you motors straighten out I recommend doing away with that whole system of the top working the quarter windows. There's a man on the Jag-Lovers Forum Paul Novak has threads on how to. I did my 91 conv and they works great. The windows work when "you" want them too, via their own switch's . Very simple to do since you already have the interior panels off .

 

I actually have paul's switch system setup in mine and it worked ok for a little then the motors started getting more and more sporadic, and finally I decided to "just leave them up all the time. It bugs me though so I figured I'd look into it again. I do like having the switchblade though too

 

Those motors are notorious for getting "stuck". Have you tried tapping on the motor while applying power?

 

Over and over and over and over again lol. Yeah it works every once in a while, but then wouldn't. Then when I got them to go up I said screw it and left them. That's why I finally figured to take them to get worked on and keep thinking of finding "new" alternative ones. As was said on the other forum, the mercedes w123 has the same bosch motor. However, the back of the transmission looks different and they are quite expensive, about $389 each new (actually "mercedes" part). It sucks when you look on ebay and find aftermarket brand new motors listed for $30 and know they probably won't fit, or last for that matter! A midroad price one would be nice

 

Like a lot of things (and us humans) we don't work as well as we once did. I suspect your problem could be most easily remedied with a disassembly, cleaning, and relubrication. The grease may have hardened over time or any number of other possibilities.

 

As a thought, have the brushes worn out? It's usually reasonably easy to adapt a set of brushes if that's the case.

 

My father was an electrician and worked in a shop where they rewound and rebuilt motors of all sizes. Are there still shops that do that?

 

I had cleaned out the right side at one point and it worked for a little while. The shop I took it to rebuilds electric motors, alternators, generators and the such. As far as rewinding the motor, I'm not sure.

 

The drawback with all window lift motors is they do not have limit switches to remove power at the end of travel.
It wouid be quite tricky and an unwanted extra expense for car makers to provide that feature.
So the motor is designed to withstand stalling at end of travel until the timer or the driver removes power.
Running current is around 2 or 3 amps, stalling current around 8 to 10A.
10A X 14V on a fully charged battery is a fair bit of heat energy so not good to keep it on for long.

There is another problem with the worm and wheel drive system to convert high speed low troque from the motor into low speed high torque to raise the window.
At the end of travel the motor stalls and the worm can bind in the wheel. When the motor reverses it has the same torque to "unstick" the bind as was originally used to cause the bind. So it is 50/50 that the motor will be able to do that.
The answer is to put a rubber spider on the wheel. When the motor reaches end of travel the spider compresses to some extent. When the motor reverses it has not only its electrical torque, it also has the extra torque from the rubber to unbind the wheel.
That rubber spider is essential for reliable operation of the window lift motors. When I overhauled the motors on my 1988 convertible I found out the hard way why the spider is there. I added rubber grease to help preserve it and help its action.
I guess instead of rubber other motors may have a spring of sorts to unbind the wheel.

 

I'm sitti here waiting the 15min after my 2nd covid shot, took a quick look and couldn't find it...

Somewhere out there there is an EXCELLENT write up (lots of pics) on how to repair and refresh the rear quarter window. If later I see more adds to this thread, I'll look around to see if I can find it. I just tried with no luck...

 

Go to Jag-lovers forums.
In XJ-S category search topic:
Convertible top cylinder (ram).

 

Try this

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...tached-162775/

 

Just got my motors back from the shop and they said they are in really good shape, and they don’t think they have had a lot of use. They did say, as others had, that there was a decent amount of grease it the motors. They tore them apart cleaned them all out and basically went over them. I don’t know if they actually replaced any hard parts or not, but they had said they would do what they could. Total for both to be gone over was $106 after tax. I brought them home and got them all reinstalled and they seem to be working fine, at least for now. Time will tell I guess! Right now I have them hooked up with paul’s switch set up, but may see if I can figure out if I can hook it up the factory way “and” keep the switches in as a just in case type deal. We’ll see. Fiddled with it enough for today though 😁😁😁

 

also tighten up on the little screw that limits the armature movement at the stall.
Should not be more than 1/32 of an inch.
Window moves to stall, armature moves longitudinally, eventually brings the grease with it, mungs up the commutator, eventually motor doesn't work.

 

Welp just a little update. This morning I went to get my allergy shots and took the xjs. I had an early appointment and thought to myself, “these windows have been functioning flawlessly! I think I’m going to wire them in so they work with the top and see if I can leave the switch in line just in case!” I guess everyone can guess what happened next! I got to the drs and went to put the top and windows up and sure enough, the left quarter window decided not to go up with the switch! Argh! So I thought “Well I guess I will just leave the window down for now.” I went to a couple of stores and everything except my left window worked perfectly. I got home, had some lunch, and went out to look into the window. I pulled the rear trim and checked for voltage and sure enough, I had power from the switch. I wiggled and pushed and pulled on the window to no avail. Then I hit the right side window switch and, for whatever reason, that side decided not to go up! ARGH! ARE YOU KIDDING ME! I then tried the left one again and after a couple of up\downs on the switch it went up! Yay! However the right side still wouldn’t! Needless to say, I had to resort to the long screwdriver and it finally went up and down then back up! Phew! Of course then I went to go out to the stores again and drrrrrr the right side decided it doesn’t want to go down again! Argh! Amazing how it hit all of a sudden like again! Smh!

 

All ups and downs,,, the story of my life, lol...
Care to pen my biography!?
​​​​​You're good!

 

Have you checked the relays? The power to both the windows and the top goes through relays for both up and down. The contacts get burned over time and the relays quit working. Replace with 40 amp relays and you should be good.

 

I'll double check, but mine are actually wired to separate switches now, and I'm actually not on that circuit anymore. My switches get power from the front windows.