Those pesky camshaft covers on the V12
Hej sån!
We all (well, most) have those black camshaft/valve covers on our engines. With age they start to flake off or just look tatty.
Before:

After:

Now:

I already did mine before but they are flaking again, as it seems the paint wasn't suitable for the job (no heat applied yet and they still just flake away).
So, what paint would you guys use? Doesn't matter if rattle/aerosol can or for the spray gun... I don't want to use POR15 on the covers, as the finish MUST be perfect (POR15 is ideal for things you don't see just incase there are some bubbles etc.) and that is basically only achieved using sprayed paints today...
Also, does anyone know what kind of "gloss level" the factory paint had? It wasn't high gloss, nor was it a silky type...
Cheers
Damien
We all (well, most) have those black camshaft/valve covers on our engines. With age they start to flake off or just look tatty.
Before:

After:

Now:

I already did mine before but they are flaking again, as it seems the paint wasn't suitable for the job (no heat applied yet and they still just flake away).
So, what paint would you guys use? Doesn't matter if rattle/aerosol can or for the spray gun... I don't want to use POR15 on the covers, as the finish MUST be perfect (POR15 is ideal for things you don't see just incase there are some bubbles etc.) and that is basically only achieved using sprayed paints today...
Also, does anyone know what kind of "gloss level" the factory paint had? It wasn't high gloss, nor was it a silky type...
Cheers
Damien
Hi Daim,
This is what I used, search around and maybe you can find it in your area
Dupli-Color 12oz GLOSS BLACK Engine Enamel Paint w/ CERAMIC Resin DE1613 | eBay
This is what I used, search around and maybe you can find it in your area
Dupli-Color 12oz GLOSS BLACK Engine Enamel Paint w/ CERAMIC Resin DE1613 | eBay
Dupli Color is a common brand here. Should be "findable". How well has it stod up to time your end? Does it cope with the heat and is it still shiney? The stuff I used was supposed to be heatresistant but didn't even withstand "ambient" temperatures!
They were of course "degreased" to make sure nothing would peal off again.
Powder coating would of course be a way BUT I don't need the inside coated and that wouldn't be a good idea... I'd have to seal the rear side to make sure nothing sticks there...
Trending Topics
So far no problems, but only had mine back on the road for about a month
Surface preparation is the key to getting paint to stick. Sandblasting is good as it provides a slightly textured surface.
The surface MUST BE CLEAN. Clean with wax and grease remover multiple times until the rags are clean, aluminium is difficult to clean.
Once clean use etch primer to improve the bond, follow the instructions for the paint you are using.
Then prime and paint. It is important to follow the instructions on the tin regarding flash time and re-coat time.
I use green scotchbrite to lightly scuff the surface if I leave the paint longer than required time between coats. Like if I re-coat the next day.
The surface MUST BE CLEAN. Clean with wax and grease remover multiple times until the rags are clean, aluminium is difficult to clean.
Once clean use etch primer to improve the bond, follow the instructions for the paint you are using.
Then prime and paint. It is important to follow the instructions on the tin regarding flash time and re-coat time.
I use green scotchbrite to lightly scuff the surface if I leave the paint longer than required time between coats. Like if I re-coat the next day.
Greg
That is where I am a little hesitant... 180°c is where it is baked onto the item coated... I have read that there are some hightemperature coatings but I'll consult my local coater 
If not, it means it'll be sprayed...

If not, it means it'll be sprayed...
heres mine 22years and counting. covers and manifolds.
glass bead blast to bare metal(not sand always dirty), glass ***** closes the pores!
good old fashioned marine grade oil base rustoleum paint(no primer), sprayed on let dry for many days , before putting on engine !
seems to be satisfactory , for the time, have been off couple times for minor work!
i have washed engine couple times, but no harsh detergents, just mild car wash soap!
exhaust mani's ceramic coated still look good!
again its your car do what you like
i have painted all my engines RED since 1949, no sense in changing now!, Red Hot and fast!! LOL
glass bead blast to bare metal(not sand always dirty), glass ***** closes the pores!
good old fashioned marine grade oil base rustoleum paint(no primer), sprayed on let dry for many days , before putting on engine !
seems to be satisfactory , for the time, have been off couple times for minor work!
i have washed engine couple times, but no harsh detergents, just mild car wash soap!
exhaust mani's ceramic coated still look good!
again its your car do what you like
i have painted all my engines RED since 1949, no sense in changing now!, Red Hot and fast!! LOL
Last edited by ronbros; Dec 18, 2016 at 03:26 PM.
also be realistic your engines 20 years from now will be kinda messy, especially if you drive them!
there will be small oil leaks, and some aging of ancillary components,etc.
mines doesnt get driven as much as i should but its not a complete garage QUEEN either.
there will be small oil leaks, and some aging of ancillary components,etc.
mines doesnt get driven as much as i should but its not a complete garage QUEEN either.






