XJS ( X27 ) 1975 - 1996 3.6 4.0 5.3 6.0

Top right Rad bolt broke off

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Old Sep 1, 2012 | 01:51 PM
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Default Top right Rad bolt broke off

Well this was fun.. I noticed a leak on the top right bolt, went to tighten it and it all just came apart leaving the nice open hole with the threaded bolt part connected screw washers etc.. . IT looks like this happened before. IN all the 6 years in having the car never had this problem. well i tried some of that putty metal weld stuff didnt work. then grabbed some of that liquid metel that hardens to so called steal. work for a little bit, and last night when i got home steam was shooting out. idk what to do besides getting a new rad and theres no way i can do that.

guys think there are other compound i could use or any other ideas?
 
Attached Thumbnails Top right Rad bolt broke off-img_6352.jpg   Top right Rad bolt broke off-img_6353.jpg  
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Old Sep 1, 2012 | 02:17 PM
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I would try putting some light heat on it, then hit it with a shot of penetrating oil. Sometimes the sudden shock from hot to cold will allow you to get it out with an easyout tool.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2012 | 02:20 PM
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I believe your only bet is to use JB Weld.

If that doesn't work, I think you're looking at a new radiator...
 
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Old Sep 1, 2012 | 02:45 PM
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Brazing would be the best option here for repair, if it's the original rad, you'll find it was predominantely constructed this way.

If you are able to braze it, it should be a permanent repair. What you are doing with the other 'repairs' is nothing more than a temporary 'fix' and it will cost you more in the long run.

Here's hoping you can braze?
 
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Old Sep 1, 2012 | 04:16 PM
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Ive got a radiator for sale!
 
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Old Sep 1, 2012 | 05:21 PM
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Yeah i can just pull it out bolt and all it comes right off, clean the bolt and the hole.
i dont think is the original one who knows. Brazing would be great if i knew how to do it haha
 
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Old Sep 1, 2012 | 05:22 PM
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any of the JB weld things i used didnt work. they never do im really disappointing with those products.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2012 | 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by smgdata
any of the JB weld things i used didnt work. they never do im really disappointing with those products.
$150 + shipping!
 
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Old Sep 2, 2012 | 03:11 AM
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Originally Posted by smgdata
Yeah i can just pull it out bolt and all it comes right off, clean the bolt and the hole.
i dont think is the original one who knows. Brazing would be great if i knew how to do it haha
Your local Auto factor or Hardware store should have the necessary bits.

You'll need a Brazing torch (Butane Torch) normally very cheap and some brazing rods (brass rods with a flux coating) use the torch to heat up the area to be brazed (adjust the flame until it's as blue as you can get it), then when it's hot hot, bring in one of the rods and allow that to heat in the flame against the bit to be repaired. the brass will melt and then it's just a case of working in a methodical fashion to build up the repair. Don't forget a welders glove, those rods get quite warm!

It'll take a bit of practise, so I'd recommend finding a piece of scrap to work with first until you are happy you can make a water tight repair.

Thankfully this is quite cheap so certianly will not break the bank, and likely cheaper than JB weld or other such 'repairs'. Whislt being a darned sight easier than trying to weld it.
 

Last edited by xjs36uk; Sep 2, 2012 at 03:34 AM.
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Old Sep 2, 2012 | 09:10 AM
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Hold on - radiators are soft soldered. Being made of brass they will melt at brazing temperature.
Soft (lead) soldering is easy provided the substrate is clean and you use flux core solder but I can't quite make out what needs to be soldered back.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2012 | 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by steveinfrance
Hold on - radiators are soft soldered. Being made of brass they will melt at brazing temperature.
Soft (lead) soldering is easy provided the substrate is clean and you use flux core solder but I can't quite make out what needs to be soldered back.
My apologies if my info is wrong. But brazing would still be possible, just heat the rad a little then and get the rod at melting temp.

Judging by the pics, that would be far to much to try a solder repair on. I've generally found that solder is fine for repairing pin holes but useless for bridging gaps and larger repairs.

Once again, if I'm in error then it is a genuine mistake and not intended to mislead.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2012 | 12:40 PM
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Why not remove the radiator and take to a shop and have it repaired properly. It will give you a chance to clean the debris from between condenser and radiator. Then you can be sure it is fixed permanently.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2012 | 03:37 PM
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All good ideas. i prob should take it out and see if any rad places around here can fix it the right way.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2012 | 05:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Greg Edge
Why not remove the radiator and take to a shop and have it repaired properly. It will give you a chance to clean the debris from between condenser and radiator. Then you can be sure it is fixed permanently.
Sounds like the best advice.
I really can't make out what's bust - I have successfully resoldered the filler neck on a couple of tractor radiators so it can be done.
@xjs36uk - never thought for a second you were being anything but helpful.
Fascinating video (if you can stand the irritating and inaccurate commentary).
 

Last edited by steveinfrance; Sep 3, 2012 at 05:51 AM.
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Old Sep 3, 2012 | 12:24 PM
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HA that was on tv today!!
 
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Old Sep 3, 2012 | 09:27 PM
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I took out the radiator that was a challenge all those dang hoses!!!
im going to take it to a shop tomrorow and see what they will do for me.
I saw the date stamp on the top its marked 5/01 so its not the original one.
 
Attached Thumbnails Top right Rad bolt broke off-photo-1.jpg   Top right Rad bolt broke off-photo-2.jpg   Top right Rad bolt broke off-photo-3.jpg  
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