Torque settings for oil pan bolts?
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From: Richmond Virginia
Torque settings for oil pan bolts?
I plan to tighten the oil pan bolts to help mitigate the massive oil leaks under the car. I have performed a search of the site, but cannot locate the torque settings.
Any help would be apprciated.
Thanks!
Any help would be apprciated.
Thanks!
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 25,529
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From: Pacific Northwest USA
Checked two of my Jag service manuals and no spec is shown.
Oil pans are not usually clamped down too tight. My guess is a four-finger-pull on your wrench or ratchet handle.
Cheers
DD
Oil pans are not usually clamped down too tight. My guess is a four-finger-pull on your wrench or ratchet handle.
Cheers
DD
Are you sure that the oil is leaking from the sump (pan) and not dripping down or being thrown from somewhere else and just appearing to come from there?
There must be a reason why the bolts are slack (if they are).
If you have oil leaking out of the sump then the bolts can only be finger tight.
Put a spanner (wrench?) on them and see how much slack that you can take up; if it is more than a quarter of turn (without putting any force on it) then whomever replaced the sump didn't tighten them up properly.
Then you have to ask. Why?
The sump is a non-load bearing or pressurized item so there probably is not a definitive torque setting: it just has to be tight enough to compress the gasket sufficiently to prevent hot oil leaking out.
Hand tighten all the bolts, clean everything that you can reach and then take the car out for a good run (i.e. cane the **** off it whilst watching the gauges).
Jack it back up and see exactly where the oil is coming from.
And don't forget the sump plug (should have mentioned the first); the threads can wear and pass oil.
There must be a reason why the bolts are slack (if they are).
If you have oil leaking out of the sump then the bolts can only be finger tight.
Put a spanner (wrench?) on them and see how much slack that you can take up; if it is more than a quarter of turn (without putting any force on it) then whomever replaced the sump didn't tighten them up properly.
Then you have to ask. Why?
The sump is a non-load bearing or pressurized item so there probably is not a definitive torque setting: it just has to be tight enough to compress the gasket sufficiently to prevent hot oil leaking out.
Hand tighten all the bolts, clean everything that you can reach and then take the car out for a good run (i.e. cane the **** off it whilst watching the gauges).
Jack it back up and see exactly where the oil is coming from.
And don't forget the sump plug (should have mentioned the first); the threads can wear and pass oil.
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There are 3 lengths . There is some small , one medium, and some long. The medium one picks the oil pipe bracket up. The rest speak for themselves when you look at it or try one in. The longest ones go along where it meets the torque converter and the adjacent edge. If you put a small one in and it doesn’t pick any threads up, you need one of the long ones. Hope that helps , I’ve just took my sump off. V12
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Only thing I can say is be cafeful,,, even with 15 to 20lbs... Aluminum.
A great mind here says just use a good dose of gasket sealant, no gasket, and keep it moving... Tighten carefully on 30yo aluminum...
A great mind here says just use a good dose of gasket sealant, no gasket, and keep it moving... Tighten carefully on 30yo aluminum...
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