I recently got a 76 V12 project, non running (despite you guys recommending otherwise, but I really just wanted a minimal-worry project).

First order of business is turn it over by hand, but I'd like advice on how to get to the hex on the pulley. I have the one-bolt fan clutch, and that whole assembly isn't coming apart.

What would be the best way around this? Can I somehow remove the fan/clutch? With the clutch stuck to the shaft and fan pulley housing, it's too big to just take out.

Do I really have to remove the radiator for this? Or, is it possible/easier to remove the fan shroud and fan assembly while keeping the radiator there?

 

Pull the fan and shroud together or just go at the crank from down below. Do not rotate backwards.

 

Do it from under the car there is enough space to get a wrench on the front pulley.

 

Those older single bolt hubs grow to the snout of the fan bearing unit.

Mix up ATF/Diesel Fuel, in a 50/50 BREW, and squirt/spray/drop some in that area, and WAIT, soak it at each stubby change, and it will come off.

Under the front for access to that hex is doable, and as said DO NOT rotate that engine backwards.

 

Thanks for the suggestions guys.

I'll have to try again with a wrench from under and see if I can get enough leverage. I did get it to go a few degrees with a breaker bar but then I ran out of room. It feels tight for sure but not stuck, so that's good.

Barring all that, I may have to go with baxtor's suggestion to take the shroud off with the fan, or keep soaking the clutch.

 

It should turn consistantly. You should barely notice any compression...

 

No compression? I have a 1976 XJ-S project as well and mine huffs and hisses as I turn the crank. That is with the spark plugs installed.

 

I expressed myself a little badly... You'll hear and feel but you shouldn't have a feel like when turning a 4 cylinder where you get a compression stroke and you notice it... A V12 always has one cylinder compressing, so the force required to turn the engine over by hand is nearly constant.

 

True. Turning a classic Beetle engine by hand is very different.

 

And that has a very low compression rate. Try turning a modern diesel by hand... Not fun!

 

Got it with the wrench! Thanks guys, not really sure why I didn't even try that in the first place. I looked from under and it looked so cramped so I just mentally checked it out.

Turned pretty smooth 720 degrees. Next up is to try cranking it (already put a bit of oil in the cylinders) and then do the compression test.

 

Remove the spark plugs and give it a good spin. The alternator should easily cool with say 30 secs and then again another 30 secs. Just to spread oil around. Then do a compression test.

 

Well, most cylinders were around 120psi, except for 4B, which feathered around 20-40psi. I poured some extra motor oil in there and it jumped to 60psi but still not good.

Looks like I'm pulling the engine?

I'm going from stage one to stage four of this project real quick :P

 

More likely that the rings are stuck or that a valve is, or it has a bit of crud on a valve seat. If you can get the engine to run, try that and get it warmed up thoroughly. Afterwards when it has cooled down, test that cylinder again.
Greg

 

I'll try that first and see how it goes, thanks! There's quite a bit of carbon deposit built up looking into the cylinders so hopefully that's the case.

If I have to pull the engine though I won't be too heartbroken, I'll have to excuse to take everything apart and learn as much as I can. And also go straight to a manual swap since it's out.