When I have done them:

Heavy lump of softish wood against the part of the upper sump that protrudes past the front of the suspension cradle. FIDDLY, hell yes, but works.

IF, and I mean IF you still have the engine driven fan, oops, it will clash with the shroud as you raise that engine, and that engine needs to raise a good 6" to clear the studs on the mounts. I run Efans on all of them, so no issues at all.

The heater water tap, at the rear of the engine bay MAY get contact, so watch out.

Other items might get caught, make contact, etc, so watch carefully as you raise the beast.

Not a fun task whichever way anyone looks at it.

 

 

Just a reminder, you must undo the nut on the engine mount stud before you jack up the engine. A 9/16ths ratchet spanner is the best tool to use. Removing the air box trumpet cover gives just enough access. The nut that fixes the top stud on 9 to the bracket on the engine.

 

 

The fibre washers do not matter, IMO. Most people leave them out if they are not there, but usually they are Ok when you get them off. Good luck
Greg

 

I leave them out, less weight, more speed, whoopee.

 

Dont leave out the fiber washer. They minimize the heat transfer from from the mount to the rubber and thats the reason the first mount lasted as long as it did.

While at this... I'd support the motor from the top and drop the front subframe enough to get at the the rearward subframe mounts and rack bushes. If those are OE, then after servicing it would be a different car.