I see several with a year range of say 1982 to 1987, and 1990-something for sale, but nothing with 1988 listed.

Are they all interchangeable with 1988?

Is there a major styling difference?

I have to do something about that wheel that came on my car.

Doug

 

I believe the change is "with airbag" and "without airbag". The two are not interchangeable.

 

'88s had an airbag in the wheel?

No, I am not going to deal with an airbag.

What are my options for a decent looking steering wheel besides the upside down three spoked dished hot rod wheel in there now?

Later model ('89 or up to ?) wheel with air bag removed?

Thanks,
Doug

 

What wheel is on there now? I installed a Nardi in mine. I never liked the original wheel, too big/too thin.

 

I believe this will show you the "up to" VIN # of each type of steering wheel.

https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.../brand/jaguar/

 

Good looking ! What model name is that?

Cheers
DD

 

The '89 XJS used this nice wheel, thick rimmed, one year only



1981/82 - 1988 used this



I prefer Nardi wheels, personally








Cheers
DD

 

Nardi Gara 4. Same one that came in the xj220(it had unique centre pad however - my goal is to find one)

 

Any non-airbag pre facelift steering wheel will fit your car. There are loads on UK ebay including the type you like. Also Mota Lita make lovely ones with the correct hubs that will fit.
https://www.moto-lita.co.uk/

 

I have a Moto Lita as well.

They are cheaper than the others, and I like the dished wheels, as they provide more room for tall folks' knees.

Rob

 

Pardon my ignorance, what year was the first "facelift" car? And what was the facelift? A general redesign?

The pic below sort of shows the current steering wheel which must go. Note it is upside down, the front wheels are pointed straight ahead. I wonder if the PO used the top center spoke as some kind of aiming sight....

Thanks,
Doug

 

Doug,

Facelift is a major changepoint in 1991 at VIN 179737. Major changes to body panels with a lot of galvanising being introduced, revised taillights, instruments etc etc.

Paul

 

@ AZDoug: regardless of whether you like it or not, you steering is mounted upside down. If the center spoke is mounted downwards, you will have a clear view of the instrument cluster until you replace it with something you like.

 

I would rather only have to remove the steering wheel once, rather than twice, if i can avoid driving the car until a new wheel arrives..

Doug

 

these are very easy to remove. No puller required.

 

I guess we will find out.

Putting off the chore because i was afraid of what i was going to find, i found:

The horn button was held onto the wheel center by a large magnet.

The hub, the wheel is attached to with three hardware store 1/4"-20 bolts is something home made.

All i can see is a bunch of welding on the outside of the hub behind the wheel, and that was rough turned in a lathe to try and smooth it out.

I have no idea how it is attached to the column, I guess I will unbolt the wheel and see what mystery lies behind it.

Doug

 

Though you might want to be cognizant of where your face is relative to the path of the on coming steering wheel when it lets go.

 

@AZDoug do they still have Checker Auto Parts in Arizona? They sold those steering wheels in 1970's.

 

After you remove the center piece, undo the nut holding the steering wheel hub to the steering column. If you see a plastic nut sitting on top of the steel nut, remove the plastic nut first. It is connected to a long brass rod for the horn.Do not remove the nut all the way to prevent you from getting a nose job. Grab the steering wheel and pull towards you and it should release pretty easily from the spline. You can now completely remove the nut. There will be two halves of a tapered cone at the bottom of the spline. Do not lose them. The taper from the steering wheel hub fits on the tapered 1/2 cones.

 

I got the wheel flipped before i read about the 1/2 cones. I didn't see any fall out, so maybe they are still in there...

I left the brass rod out, for now, as the wheel was bottoming on the nylon nut, instead of the hub, which explains why the three 1/4"-20 fasteners were only, barely finger tight.... all three came off without using a wrench

At least with the wheel right side up I can leave the bag off my head if i go get tires before the used wheel i ordered, shows up.

The wheel hub came off easily, though i did use a puller just in case.

The three mounting holes in the wheel were not concentric to the center of the wheel, they were drilled by the PO, evidently, such that the center of the wheel hits on the splined shaft, bolts are just snugged down with a wrench, again, but at least i know they are snugged gently down and not real tight*.

Doug

* A long, long time ago, c.1974, The guy I bought my '61 Corvette from needed some help getting a 1965 Chevelle, (no motor, no interior) towed back to his shop, so we put a milk crate in the car for me to sit on, while he towed the Chevelle a mile of so by 20 foot long chain to the shop.

he would motion with his hands for me to brake so the chain would stay tight if we had to stop.

Anyway, first time i went to brake, i used the steering wheel as leverage to keep me on the crate.

I quickly found out here was no nut on the steering wheel, and it came off in my hands and i almost fell over backwards off the crate.

I was able to shove the wheel back on the splines, in my pseudo panic; couldn't steer, couldn't stop, and after I got the wheel on, I steered with one hand, and used the other to hold onto the bottom of the dash for brake pedal leverage.

Some memories stick with you.