I periodically take a torque wrench to the lug nuts to see if all is well. Found a problem this morning.

One of the studs on the left rear wheel rotates with the lug nut.

If I understand correctly, these studs are hit with some sort of tool that is supposed to secure them to the wheel. From looking at the pattern in this stud, I'm not familiar with any tool that I can use to hold the stud in place so I can get the lug nut off.

One method might be to weld the stud to the wheel. While I have welding experience, I've never really welded any car parts while they were still attached to the car. Would doing so be a safety issue?

Thanks,

John
1987 XJ-S V12

 

They are threaded then hit with a tool to lock the back in place.
A small tack weld will do the job.

When I replaced them years ago when these cars were on the road in greater numbers, (XJ sedans as well) I just cleaned up the threaded hub, inserted a new stud and hit the back with a welding rod to lock in place.

You don't need to completely weld it!!!!!!

 

"One method might be to weld the stud to the wheel...."

John,

You did presumably mean weld the stud to the hub, not the wheel?!

Paul

 

Ummm, yes...weld the stud to the hub, not the wheel .

Thanks to you both. I think a tack weld should do the job.

Cheers!

John

 

This is timely as I am suffering something the same or similar... I'm going for a nice drive this weekend up ta Western Mass and like the OP, like to put a breaker on my lugs just to check. I have one that (is tight) but spinz at the end rather than bottoming out. I figured old lugs that's threads had given up BUT, I guess it could be what's being described above. Will check it out! Thank you all!

Quick question... Are the threads in the hub threaded normally, or reversed and will that matter before spot welding? Will they need to be torqued back into position or flush, before the weld? If you know what I mean...?

 

Well, I completed the spot weld on the loose stud this morning and all is well. But while I'm in there...

Is there a good reason not to spot weld the others as "preventative maintenance"?

Thanks,

John
1987 XJ-S V12

 

Spoke too soon...

I didn't torque the lug nuts since I had some more things I wanted to do in that area before I put the tire back on.

Whilst tightening that lug nut, the weld broke.

Seeing no other option, I started drilling through the lug not. As soon as the drill hit the stud, the stud started spinning, so since I can't think of a way to stop the stud from spinning drilling doesn't seem to be an option.

The problem is probably my welding. For some reason I'm getting a lot of sputtering, which I think is why the weld was so weak. I don't think I have a good ground connection. I'm using the aluminum housing to clamp the ground cable. I can't really see a way to clamp onto the hub since I can't get the tire/wheel off.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

John
1987XJ-S V12

 

I have a number of NOS Jaguar wheel studs in my spare parts bins.
Some are threaded and some are splined.
They are different threads for the lug nuts.

 

Can you tack weld it enough that you can remove the lugnut? Then with the wheel off do it "properly"?

 

This ^^^

 

Well, I managed (not sure how) to get the stud out. The threads in the hub look fine, which makes me wonder if the hub and the studs are made of different types of steel?

So I put a 1/2"/20 bolt in, along with the washer that comes with the OEM lug nuts. The threads in the hub seem fine, and this will make the car drivable until I can come up with a proper stub.

But thinking about it, I have no way of getting the hub off to be able to stake a new stud. I don't have a car lift, so I'm doing everything with a floor jack and supports. I don't even have a wrench to get the big bolt of the axle. Welding doesn't seem to be a permanent option due to concerns about warping.

So I wonder about simply using a 1/2"/20 bolt, threading it in to secure the tire, then drilling a hole in the bolt to insert a clevis pin to stop the bolt from coming out should the threads on the bolt or the hub fail?

 

I had the same problem today. I couldn't torque the wheel because the stud was spinning. Fortunately, I was able to get the wheel off with my cordless impact wrench. I went and bought some grade 8, 1/2-20 nuts so I can double nut the stud tomorrow, and hopefully get the old one out. I'll grind on the staked head of the stud if I have to, to get the stud out. I'll have to order a new stud, assuming the threads in the hub are still good. I plan on double nutting the new stud in, along with with red locktite.

My theory is some idiot at a tire shop overtorqued the wheel nuts at some point, and ruined the threads on the stud.
Jon

 

I got mine out. I used my angle grinder with a cutoff wheel and sliced off the peened portion on the back. I put on a hardened washer, then two nuts. I tightened the two nuts together, and used a prybar against the washer and unscrewed the stud with some difficulty, but it came out.

The threads in the hub were slightly gummed up, but cleaned up with a tap I had. I've ordered a new stud, and will install it with red Locktite.

As you can see from the picture, the stud threads were destroyed.

Jon

 

Yours looks just about like mine did. Good for you that you were able to get a grinder on it, I tried that but couldn't see what I was doing.

Oh, FYI, I did solve my welding problem. I ended up drilling a small hole in one of the good studs (not too deep of course), then tapping it. Inserted a screw, attached the ground cable to it, and my "sputtering" weld problem was solved.

Experimenting with a more permanent solution tomorrow.

Cheers,

John

 

I have rear wheel studs on order.

Question, what torque setting is recommended for installing them. I'll be using red thread locker since I have no way to stake them.

Thanks,

John
1987 XJ-S V12