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i came across this thread a year or two ago. My xjs was in a terrible state and required a lot of welding, so whilst i was at it i went about de-bumpering and de-seaming. Its a big undertaking. I also deleted the rear window side vents. The front stock grill arrangement once bumper is removed just looks wrong in my opinion, so i sourced an f-pace grill, and have started fitting it into the body. The challenge at the moment is making it look flush whilst maintaining hood opening functionality. I also ended up getting some deep section steel wheels, so have now widened the arches. Not set on it being black, anyone have any good recommendations for a single stage metallic paint?
i came across this thread a year or two ago. my xjs was in a terrible state and required a lot of welding, so whilst i was at it i went about de-bumpering and de-seaming. its a big undertaking. i also deleted the rear window side vents. the front stock grill arrangement once bumper is removed just looks wrong in my opinion, so i sourced an f-pace grill, and have started fitting it into the body. the challenge at the moment is making it look flush whilst maintaining hood opening functionality. i also ended up getting some deep section steel wheels, so have now widened the arches. not set on it being black, anyone have any good recommendations for a single stage metallic paint?
looks amazing so far. I currently have the front bumper off and trying to figure something out. Whats the wheel setup your running? Are you running spacers?
I bought some 5x120 steel wheels from a place called extreme offsets, the offset is et35. They do another set that’s a little less ‘extreme’. It’s quite hard finding wheels, I’m not really into the alloy style from xk8s or the bbs from the db7 that people go for. My other option was Chevrolet wheels, bolt pattern is the same. But they were all a bit too muscly. With the tiniest bit of filing to the centre bore I’ve got them fitted. They are really intended for a bmw. I wanted a classic steel wheel racer look like the lightweight e types. My thinking at the moment is to get the arches finished, and once I wear out this set of tyres I’ll get them banded to match the inside offset of the factory jag lattice set. They look a bit precarious at the moment, once widened inwards I think they’ll look great. I haven’t done the maths yet but I expect them to be around 11-12” wide?A reference point is the group 44 xjs, wide wheels on an xjs look great in my opinion. You’ll need a gas cutter to cut off those bumper mounts on the front. Or a giant pile of cutting disks.
Cool. Whats the current width of the rims? And how much wider of a flare did you add? I'm pretty well going for the same thing. I have 1 1/2" spacers with 18x 8 or something jaguar rims.
are you planning on doing a front splitter? The problem with removing the bumper is the massive overbite look on the car. I plan to do similar to the group 44 and carry the fender flare into a front splitter
I'm heading the same direction with mine. I also Love the Group 44 look with the wide flares and wheels. I can't believe how close what you've done, is to what I've drawn out, and have wanted to do to mine from the day I got it. Wow one of us must be Psychic! Nice Job, it's gonna look Fantastic!
the wheels are 16x8, with the offset being -35 and stock being 28 i have quite a bit of width to get back on the inside to meet the stock size. i dabbled with a splitter, and on my journey i bought a front bumper from an f type, it had the grill shape i wanted, obviously the photo leaves much to be desired. I decided against it as i thought it was too modern, and god forbid a bit boy racer. attached also is a mock up i did on photoshop, this is with the f type grill and spoiler. this was my intended outcome. also attached, are images from the game forza, i downloaded it specifically because you can get an xjs in it, and then do a bumper delete. also the ability to do custom paint jobs and see different wheel sizes makes it a really useful tool for planning and designing.
i've actually increased the overbite... i've made the hood about 2 inches longer, had to make some custom brackets for the hood. i really like the overbite, to me its less of a weird pedigree dog with strange teeth and more of a cloaked or hooded figure with sunken eyes.
Sadly I'm on the other end of the spectrum right now as I'm still building the car, and haven't started the outer body work, I'm still putting patches in my floors then I have to close the holes in the firewall I had to make to fit the 460 Ford V8. I've got some pics of the floors, and a rear spoiler I started on. But no actual bodywork started at this point.
Jack This is the Drivers floor Drivers floor all patched All cleaned up and primed. Then I cut and shaped a 14 gauge sheet, then pressed the 2 floors together and welded to seriously reinforce the floors without disturbing the unibody.
Well I've coated the floors with Zinc rich weld through primer, before I put the sheet down over the original floor. Then I'm going to coat the floors with Lizard Skin, or an equivalent. before the carpet goes down, and I'll fully undercoat from underneath. On top of that, I also Live in a very low rust area, North East Arkansas, and we don't us hardly, any salt on our roads. And while this won't be just a fair weather car. I won't be driving it much during the winter anyway. Maybe on a Bright sunny day as we get quite a few of those here. But not as a rule. So by the time it rusts again, I'll be to old to give a crap, and it will be someone else's problem. I'm building it to drive the wheels off it. And a little more structural rigidity sure can't hurt it.
Yeah I'm looking at several different sealant rust converters / preventers. Not sure which is the best, as I also need to cancel noise, and heat. Any Thoughts would be appreciated.
Yeah I'm looking at several different sealant rust converters / preventers. Not sure which is the best, as I also need to cancel noise, and heat. Any Thoughts would be appreciated.
If it is underneath they make a thicker sort for that. Layers are the key, this system has worked for me for over 10 years and all the places I have treated are 100% rust free still, and the car is driven in all weathers and as we live down an off road track, has always got mud undemeath the wheel arches and in the various corners, etc.
Last edited by Greg in France; Feb 18, 2020 at 01:00 PM.
This is the insulation I have used. While I have not driven her on the road, she does sit in the sun bit in the afternoon. And she seems to be cool. I have been locked in the boot for a while in the afternoon, wasn't too bad
Universal Car Auto Firewall Sound Deadener Insulation Mat Noise Heat Shield Insulation Automotive Deadening Foam Panel 50*200cm.
Personally l like the original bumpers. On a US car l would remove the jell insert or get European fixing hardware to push that horrible center bumper back in.
I wonder what a complete chrome bumper like on other 70's cars (Stag) would look like.
I like the look of the ipace front. Very nice. Just delete the bonnet/hood badge, a bit overdone with 2..
Personally l like the original bumpers. On a US car l would remove the jell insert or get European fixing hardware to push that horrible center bumper back in.
I wonder what a complete chrome bumper like on other 70's cars (Stag) would look like.
I like the look of the ipace front. Very nice. Just delete the bonnet/hood badge, a bit overdone with 2..
lf you decide to buy that, ensure you ask the seller for 20% off. Hes stating hes supplying a VAT receipt...................so one can only assume hes paying it
I wonder what a complete chrome bumper like on other 70's cars (Stag) would look like.
It looks like this:
yThis is a factory styling development prototype photo, and in my view it looks absolutely terrific. The only version of the car that I prefer to the HE pre-facelift XJS.
