Hi Guys,

This winter I'm planning to remove the Cage, main reasons besides maintenance are: 1) I think I have a worn UJ on the right hand half shaft (when right cornering slowly, I feel sloppiness on the right side, noticeably feel up/down movement and hear an odd noise and sometimes a clunk. 2) Over bumps I sometimes hear a clunk/bang (could be the UJ in (1)) or maybe a loose diff bolt on top of the cage, or worse could be play in the wishbones...

I know there aren't many XJSC's around (5013 made) and no one seems to have uploaded any advice on steps/photo's etc. - so hopefully this will help other owners out there. I know the Ladder was fitted at Aston Martin to stiffen up the body prior to the chopping the roof off and fitting the Cabriolet roof structure. Any advice you want to offer please feel free

Plan:

1) First removing the ladder and all those chunky shims (obviously marking locations and id). I think it best to do this with the rear of the car sat on ramps or chunky timbers as shown in my photos (will also add a couple of axle stands for extra safety even though the car will be on its wheels).
2) Once ladder off, I can the assess the diff and lower cage (can't see it properly or see how secure the bottom of the cage is - like you guys with no ladder fitted!...). If all is well then jack up with my 3 ton floor jack under the diff (and block of timber or even a U block as I've seen in other posts). Jack to height of 24 inches body clearance I believe?
3) I have 6 ton axle stands ready to go on the jacking points near the trailing arms. Intend to also use my chunky timbers as extra safety.
4) I've read many of the links on 'cage removal' with advice such as: To be aware of forward weighted diff when using floor jack, removing wheels, undo trailing arms (I've fitted new bushes in the past so no heavy grunting should be needed...), disconnection of the obvious stuff (brake line & cable, exhausts, speed sensor, prop (mark-up/id).
5) Unfasten the support blocks with a helper. Wheels back on lower Cage slowly and wheel out ...
6) Rebuild calipers etc. Clean and spray Cage & Ladder. Maintain/Repair/Replace anything untoward etc.

Advice?

Bigger chock to replace small piece of wood when I start the job of course...

That's some sturdy ladder

Half shaft covers needed you think? Or clean-up and spray?

I fitted new springs and shocks

See - no access to lower diff

I think this UJ is the source of some of my problems

Rear Ladder showing shims











How high to get cage out?

 

That is about it; but you will have to undo the brake flexible pipe (RHS just in front of the subframe) and undo the exhaust pipes at the flanges just in front of the cage and tie up or otherwise securely support the pipes or the downpipes may break! Or you can remove the pipes completely by also undoing the flanges at the downpipe end. Two people are best to do this job, one each end.

 

Odd, i had a 1975 XJSC V12, and it did not have that ladder setup, USA car!
so Aston Martin made that arraingment? seems as tho that would stiffing up the cage from movement, and not ripping the rubber cage mounts loose, not much for body stiffening
back in those years Aston must have needed some work to stay alive!
i now have a 1978 XJS ,RHD, last registered Kent UK. that was converted to a Prototype Cabriolet, around 1981/1982?
work of the conversion BY Aston Martin pic of bonnet letters!
pic of 1978 XJS convert to cabrio! also adjustable preload bar set up i use now! keeps the cage tighter ,with enough tire torque to put some lift into the body weight and push tires harder into road for more traction/grip!
old crazy yankee drag idea! if you ever put some GOOD drag tires on a stock XJS , you would pull the rear cage loose(ask me how i know).
before and after pix.
ron

 

Odd, i had a 1975 XJSC V12, and it did not have that ladder setup, USA car!
so Aston Martin made that arraingment? seems as tho that would stiffing up the cage from movement, and not ripping the rubber cage mounts loose, not much for body stiffening
back in those years Aston must have needed some work to stay alive!
i now have a 1978 XJS ,RHD, last registered Kent UK. that was converted to a Prototype Cabriolet, around 1981/1982?
work of the conversion BY Aston Martin pic of bonnet letters!

 

notice Aluminum driveshaft, single piece, HD GM joints!

 

Hi Greg,

Thanks, yes I got most of my insight on the job from the likes of you and Grant I prefer doing the pipes at the cage and tying up as you say.

 

Hi Ronbros,

I saw you photo the other day and had a double take as I thought oooooo it's like mine. Yeah Aston Martin did the XJSC's way back, I posted an article I found on the subject a year ago - interesting article on the history of the XJS in general. Thanks for the post.

 

I just re-read the article I posted (https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...istory-194576/), and note that the strengthening (ladder) was actually fitted at Park in Coventry, it was the Cabriolet Roof that was fitted at Aston Martin.... so guess I can say I have the top half of an Aston ;-)

Here's a quote out of the article:

"The XJ-SC used the existing coupe bodyshell, which was then taken to the Park Sheet Metal Company in Coventry where it was modified. This involved the removal of the flying buttresses and the addition of underbody strengthening. The ’shells were then returned to Browns Lane for painting, installation of mechanical parts, electrics and interior trim. After road-testing, the cabriolets then ventured to Aston Martin Tickford Body Works at Bedworth, Nuneaton for the roof trimming and hood to be fitted. Then it was back to Browns Lane – again – for fitting of exterior trim and road testing."

 

THANKS Kjopen your post really helped me know more of what i have , i'v had it for 26yrs, and never got a good description of the converted Cabrio's!
seems as tho very few people knew much about them,XJSC cabrio's as prototype!
something i'm thinking about , when did my 1978 XJSC,, get built,.?
when in process of restore/rebuild, i found the paint under a very cheap White repaint, an odd color green(i thought primer paint), but close examining of a very HARD paint ,it was Military Olive Drab, which begs the question WHO would paint there Jaguar mil.paint! someplace between 1978 and guessin 1982, and having it converted to Cabrio, by AM and others?
and then shipping it to USA around 1985/ 1986?
OH well it is what it is, many yrs of a labor of love, and $$$$$$, a special V12 engine, dyno close to 400hp at wheels, registered weight of 3425LBS !,power to weight!
thanks again. and thanks for that 1st post about a yr ago!
ron

 

Ronbos, I'm originally from the UK (Manchester) and with work etc. I traveled around the UK over the years, Coventry (where the XJSC's were strengthened) was a known place for Car production and if I'm not mistaken many original Land Rover fabrication, is the paint any chance a similar shade of green to the drab on Land Rovers? Also, they did build military vehicles there.... these cars really have an interesting history.

 

that does make sense !
i wonder who would have it shipped to US?
maybe a Military person, altho the title i have was originally for a woman, lived in Virginia, District of Columbia USA.
its is now titled TEXAS USA.
anyway all is well, and your information and that article is fine!
and good luck with your project!
ron

 

Ladder out. Only held in by 8 bolts. Surprisingly, it wasn't connected to the diff as I originally thought - to help stop any twisting etc. Meaning it was purely to strengthen the body/chassis. I may be tempted to actually add bolts to the diff/cage to give it that extra support to save me ripping the back axle off when I open it up!

Pretty robust frame...

 

Wow, that is some contraption under there. I solve my cage issues by duplicating the rubber mounts in steel. A litter nosier but the cage stays put. I had a six speed manual with an LT-1, no issue. Initially it kept snapping the rubber mounts as from the factory they are not interlocked. They just separate.

 

kjopen,

Unfortunately, you can't say that you have even the top half of an Aston! By the end of 1985, predominantly in response to the negative comments on build timing and hood quality, Jaguar had decided to take the finishing of the Cabriolet away from Aston Martin Tickford and bring it in-house. Only about 100 Cabriolets got finished by Tickford before it became a completely in-house operation. But you've probably got a better-built car anyway!

Cheers

Paul

 

I like the sound of that idea with the solid mounts - you got any photos?

 

...you shattered my dreams man! ;-) yeah the whole story of these cars is like a maze, I thought I had landed some cool information in that article to finally clear a lot up but even more info is coming out of the woodwork eh?

 

So, now the 'Ladder' is out I can finally see much more of the cage etc. All looks really solid other than surface rust, last year I replaced: the flexible brake hose, springs and shocks, rubbers in the trailing arms. I can find nothing loose - I can now just about feel the bolts on the top of the cage I thought maybe loose, the diff bolts are tight and more importantly I've pulled back the covers on the UJ's on the right hand half shaft - the UJ's have no play at all in them, I was expecting a worn one....

Looking at the condition of everything in the cage other than surface rust and a clean-up I don't feel the work of removing the cage is needed...other than the issue I can't track down...

My issue is a 'sloppiness' in the right rear and an occasional bang over bumps. The bang could be an exhaust catching the body - I know the clearances are tight in places, but I see no marks and pushing the exhausts around gives no bang... The sloppiness is the main concern as its weird, going round a right turn slowly it's like I have a flat tire! the car moves up and down and I can hear almost a rubber squashing or twisting noise so I have to slow right down, it has the movement symptoms of a UJ worn out, but like I said they are tight and solid as a rock. The rubber cage support blocks look good and don't appear separated - even when jacking up a side they don't separate, I'm wondering if I replace those before dropping the cage to see if they are the problem, what do you guys think?