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Please see the illustration. Hi folks, if you've done this job, looking for some guidance about replacing the curved coolant hose under the edge of the intake manifold on the 4.2 NA engine. Connects the throttle body to the engine block.
I've removed the TB, and can see that I'll have to at least remove the TB-Manifold elbow. No problem. Gaskets delivered.
EGR: It appears that the EGR can be unbolted from the side of elbow (new gasket needed) -- or can the unbolted elbow be moved far enough to forego disconnecting the EGR?
Manifold removal: Will I be able to replace the hose when I remove the TB-Manifold elbow, or does the intake manifold have to come off?
Appreciate your experience in swapping this hose, and any tips for making the job easier.
I replaced the same hose last summer and, as far as I remember, the only part that I actually had to remove was the inlet manifold itself. The photo shows what I was left with immediately before swapping out the hose.
I seem to recall that I did unfasten the exhaust pipe from the EGR but I'm not sure that I actually had to do that. Obviously, that meant replacing the small metal crush gasket but it wasn't expensive or difficult to replace but I think that it was unnecessary as the assembly could have been eased out of the way.
It was a very simple job. I'm about to do the same job on my 4.0 but the different positioning of the throttle body against the bulkhead makes the whole job a lot more difficult.
I replaced the same hose last summer and, as far as I remember, the only part that I actually had to remove was the inlet manifold itself. The photo shows what I was left with immediately before swapping out the hose.
I seem to recall that I did unfasten the exhaust pipe from the EGR but I'm not sure that I actually had to do that. Obviously, that meant replacing the small metal crush gasket but it wasn't expensive or difficult to replace but I think that it was unnecessary as the assembly could have been eased out of the way.
It was a very simple job. I'm about to do the same job on my 4.0 but the different positioning of the throttle body against the bulkhead makes the whole job a lot more difficult.
Richard
Thanks thanks very much, Richard. The photo is a big help. It looks like you unbolted the throttle body and moved it aside, then removed the intake manifold and intake manifold elbow at the same time. It also looks like you disconnected the EGR from the throttle body elbow so you can lift both parts out at once. Both true? If I'm correct in saying you removed the intake manifold, of course you replaced both intake gaskets, correct?
Did you use the removal of the intake manifold for any other repairs or maintenance?
Thanks thanks very much, Richard. The photo is a big help. It looks like you unbolted the throttle body and moved it aside, then removed the intake manifold and intake manifold elbow at the same time. It also looks like you disconnected the EGR from the throttle body elbow so you can lift both parts out at once. Both true? If I'm correct in saying you removed the intake manifold, of course you replaced both intake gaskets, correct?
Did you use the removal of the intake manifold for any other repairs or maintenance?
Panthera
No problem. I'm struggling to remember the details but I recall that I possibly unbolted something around the EGR, either the EGR itself or the pipe from the exhaust, that I could have left bolted together and thereby avoided having to replace a gasket. However, none of it was difficult so if you do unbolt everything like I did, it's not a big problem. It's not one of those moments where you think, "Damn it, I should have left that well alone" but more "Oh well, that cost me an extra five minutes and a new gasket".
I did replace both the manifold gaskets as an air leak there is bound to cause rough running.
Sometimes people suggest that you could replace the knock sensors whilst you're in there but I just left mine alone. The only thing I did, which I've never heard of, is I removed that large rubber blanking grommet in the top of the crankcase and then sealed it with RTV all the way round so it is now sealed. The reason why I did this is that all the coolant that leaked from my valley hose on my car went under that grommet and into the bellhousing which meant that the torque converter and flex plate were sloshing around in coolant for several months before I realised what was going on. Now that the grommet is sealed, any leaking coolant will flow out over the top of the bellhousing and will be visible when you look down the back of the engine from above, which is a much better option.