I know I could likely answer this myself by looking at the dang car, but the car is not nearby at the moment.

There is a coolant hose on the throttle body that runs under the intake manifold. Are both ends of that hose accessible, or does the intake manifold have to come off? NA 4.2.

 

That's the valley hose.
I don't think you can replace it without removing the inlet manifold
NB
New inlet manifold seals very hard to find.

 

The hose is attached under the intake. On my 2004 when I did it I didn't remove the unit, but did unfasten it. I propped it up with a wood block which provided the space one needs.

If I recall at the time I concluded the inlet manifold seals from a Ford Thunderbird were interchangeable, available and cheaper. Maybe the Lincoln LS as well - do some part number searching. My seals were fine - for some reason I am thinking it is a two piece design and you do not have to touch the seals, only the gasket. It has been a few years.

 

I recently had to replace mine on a 2008 XJ8. I was apprehensive at first, but after ordering the gaskets and reading the manual a half-dozen times, I got it done in a few hours with no problems at all.

 

Thanks everyone. Local Auto Zone has the manifold gasket set in stock, 28 bucks.

 

That's the one, British engineering.

 

Hi MBJAG,
I see those worm-type hose clamps on your piping.
The standard OEM spring-type clamps work very well. They never get loose, and you can't overtighten them.
They're perfectly circular, and they don't leak. They aren't any more expensive either.
When I did my SV8 valley hoses, I used all the stock clamps with no problems.

Pete M

 

That is a very interesting observation. For a 2007 MY engine to have all those original hose clamps replaced by the stainless worm gear clamps, PRIOR to it's disassembly this time for the current valley hose suggests that it has been seriously worked on. By you? Prior owner? When I replaced the valley hose on my 2005 4.2 NA with over 100K miles, all the clamps were untouched, factory style.

 

I DESPISE the spring clamps. They are effective, they can easily be reused, they can't be overtightened, but 95% of them are IMPOSSIBLE to reach. As I tore the hoses out for my radiator replacement and subsequent issues with "the next weakest link" failing, I had four different pliers I had to use, depending on what was around the clamp and in the way. I replace with worm-screw clams every time I replace a hose. You can always reach that screw head! I replace the clamp if I have to remove the hose later for something else.

As for valley coolant hoses, whenever I'm in the valley for anything, I'll replace that hose "just because," so I don't have to go in there again just for that someday. I had a '95 Ford probe GT with the Mazda 2.5-liter DOHC V6 and had to remove the intake manifold to get the valve covers off and replace those leaky gaskets. I had an Aurora and had to replace the starter, which is located in the valley under the intake manifold, but that one had no coolant hose through the valley.

In this instance, though, I'm replacing the entire cooling system, because after replacing the radiator, the expansion tank blew, after replacing that, the water pump leaks, so I'm forklifting everything that carries water outside the engine, except the heater core. (I do have my limits!!! ) It amazes me to think that car designers can actually believe that is a useful thing to do, to place what is probably a regular maintenance item somewhere that requires major disassembly to reach.

 

Pete M, I don't remember if my mechanic worked in that area before. I bought this 2006 VDP in and auction for $1,900. No service records, no nothing. It was totalled by the insurance company after a fender bender accident. You can read my odyssey in the "I just rescued a 2006 VDP" in this forum.

 

I don't replace the spring clamps because if they leak you can't just tighten them.
They are cheap and quick to fit so the manufacturer saves pennies.

 

+1 on the OEM clamps. They are standard because they do not create a ‘pinch point’ as do the worm screw aftermarket clamps. The OEM hose clamps and their clones provide constant tension on the hose and its fitting.

Do keep a couple of worm screw clamps for emergencies to get you home. They can be snugged up on the remnants of a nipple and allow the hose to be reclaimed if that is where the problem has occurred. I nursed my 2004 back home (8) miles when the inlet nipple on my radiator broke due to an over torqued worm clamp. D’oh!

 

Hi Wfooshee
When I first started on my supercharger replacement, I felt the same about the spring clamps. Then one of the guides I was reading mentioned that the remote spring clamp pliers were essential. I bought a pair, and it's right, they make the whole process doable. Get one of these tools, and you'll be converted! The down side of the screw clamps is that some of the cooling system hoses are plastic, and the screw clamps take no prisoners.

Spring hose clamp remote pliers: Essential.

Pete M

 

so on the right side of the intake manifold pictured there is a nipple pointing up that a hose attaches to, where does that lead to? On my mom's 2004 xj8 the hose is attached but it is pushed down under the housing and goes somewhere back towards the engine

 

That nipple is the other end of the hose that attaches under the intake manifold. The bottom end is the part circled in red in MBJAG's pictures.

Below is the hose I pulled off of my car, next to the replacement part I got. Notice that the original is a two-piece hose with permanent bands to clamp the different sizes to a plastic coupler. The replacement is a single molding, which I trust a helluva lot more. And MBJAG's set looks like a really cobbled-together repair job, possibly replacing the very coupler I'm not trusting!

 

That's a great tip on the remote pliers! Didn't know they existed. Full set of spring clip pliers on the jungle website including the remotes. Arriving soon in my garage.