Multi Chanel as my vin is later than that
I am not trying. Program a new key the key is original and was working and I know it is transpiring as its detectable in my fluency mter
the problem is that there is absolutely no response when I press the start button, I.e. no position 2
i assume without position 2 that nothing could be coded to the car anyway unless coding a key does not require the ignition to be in position 2

 

It seems like your battery is disconnected. Does your horn make sound? Do any lights flash when you use the remote to try to Lock or Unlock? Do your inside door handles both lock when the handle is pushed into the door panel? Also does the alarm sound if you open a door without the key near?
I'm throwing darts, here. Maybe something will stick.

 

Windows work, seats work in inch mode, horn works, locks don’t, lights don’t, alarm doesn’t do anything

 

I don't mean to say obvious and unlikely stuff, but maybe a plain old broken or disconnected ignition switch?

 

ahhh but it can be the obvious at time, who designed a fuse box to be at the end of a footwell that only a giraffe could actually see because i can't get my neck that far round and i am too old and to unfit to do yoga, have have to wait until SWMBO (she who must be obeyed) gets home and ask her to look, she tiny and does yoga will be a good experience for her
now looking in workshop manual to see how to remove that panel, i think it is the only one i haven't had to remove when replacing interior

I put battery on for a moment to move seats and wipers started up front headlights came on, ok i thought but not that damn tricky car then went back to sleep!!!

no wonder they are called Jag's as my cats do bugger all but lay around sleeping and not moving

 

actually on the broken switch possibility it doesn't have the same 'feel' to it at the moment. usually feels like there is a bit of push back when pressed but that maybe because it isn't energised anyway will continue looking at all fuses to eliminate that part

 

Okay, back to Jumpstreet...
You first stated the battery had over 13 volts. Actually, that is a bad thing. Everything since then has pointed TO the battery, regardless what the electrical guy said.
Me, I'd borrow some other absolutely known GOOD battery and hook that up. A fairly quick and zero-cost test. If the posts are reversed, just turn the battery around. No need to remove the original either.
A 200-amp jump/charger (NOT one of those small jump boxes) could also be tried.

 

that what i did this morning with the battery of daughters clk. even though it is a bit underpowered compared to the battery in the jag i thought even if i could get the ignition to at least go to position 2 it would be a win.
have just contacted a friend to see if they have something i could borrow, one way or the other it would be a result either way. i.e. my battery no good or points to something else.
i still have this niggling feeling that it is more to do with the immobiliser, but i would rather be proved wrong and its something easily fixed as it were

 

I wish you luck, but I'm now out of my knowledge base as I've not yet had to deal with those dreadful things.

 

cheers hopefully have another battery on the way this weekend to have a quick test.
thanks for the support. Never a dull moment with Jaguar Landover stuff
Your picture looks to be the 5.0L which has the same motor in that my last Rangie did. If it starts ticking at some point then you will be having one of those dreadful things. Doesn't always happen but mine did and wasn't cheap to repair

https://www.tsbsearch.com/Land-Rover/LTB00474NAS3

 

I would check fuses. From the schematic looks like the ignition relay is not operating (no lights) - could be the ECM (powering the ignition relay) acting up. Of course weak battery my be an issue as the Jags can be fussy:

 

Your profile says that you are in NZ? Whereabouts in NZ because there are specialists on the South Island.

Shane Clinch services my Jags and is where the local Jaguar dealer sends stuff they can't fix! He also used to run the service department at the local dealer before he set up his own business.

https://www.clinchautomotive.co.nz/

 

Hi have spoken to Shane yesterday he was very helpful

 

Yep went through all fuses yesterday and pulled the lot all were good
i reconnected the battery at one point and wipers and headlights came on
The car went dead again after opening the door to check if I had position 2 on the ignition back
after that everything is dead again

 

I know Shane very well and have watched him bring cars back from the dead a few times. He has a few different diagnostic tools and just goes through the routine of working out which modules are responding and which aren't and goes from there, working down the buses, reflashing if needed, and bringing everything back to life.

If all else fails ship the car to him and he will hopefully be able to fix it.

 

May have to in the end although ChCh is a few hours from me so going to be expensive even to get it there 😔

 

It might not be horrific. Companies like this are pretty reasonable and they often do cheap deals if they are returning from somewhere with an empty truck:

https://www.towtaxi.co.nz/

What is your closest town?

 

Cromwell
the problem is the transmission will not move out of park and car is in my garage so don’t know how they will be able to get it onto anything to be homest
maybe a fork truck😀
have emailed the tow taxi people you suggested

 

There is a Park Release beneath the center console, but you will need a specific TORX bit to remove a screw. The procedure is in the Owner's Manual. Not difficult at all, and I'd suggest throwing the screw away once you remove it.
Or, maybe???? I was thinking specifically of the 5 liters, so now I don't know about a 2007.

 

in this one apparently pull out cup holder and its under there, good point you made and found it on ToPix cant seem to find in handbook
but no pulled cupholder and its nothing like what the ToPix instructions showed
So look through workshop manual and find this

f electrical power to the selector lever is lost, the selector lever will be locked in the 'N' or 'P' position by the shift interlock solenoid if moved from the 'D' position. The selector lever will remain locked until electrical power to the selector lever is restored. There is no emergency interlock solenoid release mechanism on the selector lever.
and as there is no electrical power then i guess it remains locked in park
Cheers