Hi, the 2010 XKR convertible has a access hole under the back seat. Two questions: can I lower the tank a little to better access the flange mount and how does the fuel pump assembly seat into the tank. Are there clips that hold it the lower assembly in place. Thanks for your help.
Randall Carlson

 

The Workshop Manual is in a sticky at the top of the first page of this Forum, click here:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xk-xkr-x150-33/xk-xkr-workshop-manuals-electrical-guides-215509

Look for the 5.0 Manual, and click on the link to download it. Search it to find the answers to your questions.

 

I lowered the tank by unscrewing the 2 bolts holding up the tank. You do not need to touch the heat shield. Having already emptied the tank from above, it was light. I only disconnected the fuel inlet hose, left the others alone. Then I was able to remove the upper fuel pump flange thru the hole under the backseat. It had a crack and jb weld was useless. I left the lower assembly which houses the actual fuel pump alone. There are 2 electrical connectors and the left fuel pump hose which need to be reconnected. Above the flange is the main tank outflow and an electrical harness. The electrical harness inside the tank only had to be pulled off. Above the tank, the harness had a clip which you need a small regular screwdriver. The hoses have push releases on each side.

After resecuring the flange with the 6 bolts and the tank with its 2 bolts, she runs fine.

I am still wondering how the clips on the lower assembly are released. And can you replace the fuel pump alone inside the lower assembly?

 

What was the issue in the first place? Did you cut a hole out or was it already there?

 

I put 2 cement blocks in the trunk to help with rear traction. Shifting weight must have cracked the fuel pump flange. The tanks is steel and is fastened tightly to the frame. When it contorts, the 6" plastic fuel pump flange may not hold up. It cracked at the border of the fuel filter and cover. It was only a small crack so I tried some makeshift methods but nothing worked. I think the pump puts out 48psi there. So I replaced the upper assembly and left the pump alone.

Yes there is a hole under the right rear seat but you have to lower the tank and shift it backwards.

 

????? Uh, why exactly?
Load transfer has nothing to do directly with weight.
Concrete block weighs about 30 pounds, two is sixty pounds. Fuel weighs about six pounds per gallon, so just run a full tank instead of having loose projectiles in your boot that don't do any good regardless. The back half of your car weighs about 1900 pounds by itself, so adding an additional sixty pounds is basically nothing anyway. Plus, two concrete blocks take up a lot of space that could be better utilized by having nothing there at all.

 

i always do this with my cars, it's 2x 50lb sandbags at the rear of trunk secured with rubber matting in a box.

 

That is literally 'bricking' your car Aaah just read that you double bagged it, but in a car with pretty good balance, that can take corners well it seems unnecessary. If you are used to ones that don't then just a habit you're use to.

Each to his own, I try to keep a minimum of 6mm on my rear tyres and laden weight down so, which includes my svelte self

Thanks for the fuel pump procedure and pics though, mightily useful