Tried to start yesterday and had all the classic signs of bad battery. Lot's of warnings, the passenger air light flashing, key fob stuck, lots of clicking and the drivers side window came down a little at a time on its own. Eventually battery was dead.

I just purchased it 2 weeks ago and couldn't get the trunk open because I found out the metal key was never cut! I did learn a new way to jump these cars. There's jump access under the drivers side rear quarter panel past the tire. So once I had power, I got the trunk open. Put my fully charged jump box on and while I now have power it still won't start and the key fob won't release and yes I did push down on it.

The brake pedal is very hard to push so I pushed as hard as I could multiple times to no avail. I read on another post that if your brake light comes on then its not the brake switch that's keeping it from starting and it does come on.

I touched the positive and negative together and no change.

So I fully charged the battery overnight and no change. I took the battery to be checked and it's 100%. The battery was new in 10/22.

Took it back and cleaned the battery terminals and the connections. No change.

I noticed that after trying to start the red security light on the dash by the windshield was flashing 2x then 4x. Maybe the alarm is triggered?

I've owned 2 XJR's and 7 XKR's from 2000 to 2008. So I've seen more then my share of problems and fixed most on my own with the help of this forum.

 

I would jump straight from the grd post to frame with cables to see if that changes anything

 

After the instrument cluster has transmitted its first PATS idle message, it will start a 2 second timer running. If the PATS sequence does not complete (Cluster received the Enable msg) within this time period the instrument cluster will set this DTC. B1B3387 is code 24 = 60 seconds of steady indication followed by fault code 24 flashing 10 times.

That said, everything you typed says you have a battery issue and since you know the battery is 100%, you likely have a grounding problem. You will want to test that side of the equation. I would start with the fuses.

 

Do you have any kind of code reader that could read and clear all DTCs?

Not sure if it will change anything but it's what I would try.

Richard

 

I don't know yet why the battery originally drained down but I know why it wouldn't start with a jump or fully charged battery, operator error!
Once I knew I had a dead battery I was looking under the bonnet for access to jump it. I found a little box with a bolt on top on the drivers side about center front to back. I took out the bolt and separated the box from the holder and never put it back. Once back together and a full charge it started right up. I guess I should be thankful I remembered before I had it towed and paid a few hours labor for someone else to find.

 

Well, there ya go. Good thing you found it this quickly. Little nit-noids can really be a pain in the ****.

 

And how about putting SOLVED on the thread title?

 

How do I edit the title?