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I see the service manual recommends a specific tool to torque the oil filter correctly (303-752). There seem to be copies of this tool readily available, but they are 15 flute and the genuine oil filter definitely has 14.
As an alternative, has anyone used one of these? I'm not entirely sure how to measure the filter to get the right size (filter itself? point to point across the flutes? flat to flat across the flutes?).
You definitely don't need and any tool to put the filter on as it should only be done hand tight anyway. Access is so good that you don't even need a tool to remove the old filter as a strap or chain wrench will do the job, although I can't be bothered to faff about with either those so I just use my Stilsons if it doesn't come off by hand.
The design of the OE oil filters by Mann and Mahle have changed over the years and the Jaguar special tool only works with the original 15-flat type. Some of the later filters have indented flutes in the Ford Motorcraft style. So the easiest solution is to use a small band- or strap-style oil filter wrench as wymjym suggested.
Most filter manufacturers specify that the filter should be tightened 2/3 to 3/4 revolution past the point where the gasket comes into contact with the oil filter housing. With my arthritis, this is more than "hand tight," but it may be achievable by those of you with strong hands.
which fits well, so thank you. 903 seems to be the magic 'model' number here: there are many options, but I liked this particular one as it seems to be made of good quality metal and has a good, deep 1/2" socket on it so as not to dent the filter itself which according to the reviews some of them do.
@kj07xk I'm in the UK and there was a long import time but using your information I took a punt on https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0B2F1XWKV which fits well, so thank you. 903 seems to be the magic 'model' number here: there are many options, but I liked this particular one as it seems to be made of good quality metal and has a good, deep 1/2" socket on it so as not to dent the filter itself which according to the reviews some of them do.
I have so many oil filter tools it's not funny. All accumulated over some 37 years of changing the oil in more cars than I can remember. Fortunately the rate of having to buy new ones has slowed down as invariably one of the old ones will work.
Tonight I remembered to take some photos of oil filters that fit the 4.2L engines and in some cases the 4.0L engines and the wrenches/adapters I have on hand that fit them:
Starting at the left is the Wix 57302. The adapter I have that fits is marked inside: 75 77 / 15, which means the adapter fits either 75 mm or 77 mm filters with 15 flats (its sides are stepped to accomodate the two filter sizes). The flats on the 57302 are actually slightly concave or fluted.
The second from left is the Mann W713/29. The aluminum adapter is number 903, which is marked inside: 74P-14-1. It has 14 flats. The black stamped steel adapter is marked 76 / 14, meaning 76 mm with 14 flats. I don't know how to reconcile the 74P on the aluminum 903 with the 76 mm on the black steel adapter.
The third from left is the Jaguar EAZ 1354. The aluminum adapter is number 903-1, which is marked inside: 75P-15. It has 15 flats. The black stamped steel adapter is marked 74 76 / 15, meaning it fits either 74 mm or 76 mm filters with 15 flats (its sides are stepped to accomodate the two filter sizes).
The filter at the right is Mann 719/7. This has 12 of what I have come to call the Ford Motorcraft flutes because I think I've seen these flutes on some Ford filters. Maybe someone else with have a better reference. The aluminum adapter is number 903-6, which is marked inside: 75P-12.
The ring-style wrench adapter, Jaguar special tool 303-752, has 15 flats and fits both the Mann 713/29 and the Jaguar EAZ 1354.
The standard steel band-style wrench fits all four filters.
Given the limited space available to fit an adapter to the end of the filter, the black stamped-steel adapters may be too deep when you add a 3/8" ratchet or breaker bar. A serpentine belt tool will work if the vehicle is high enough off the ground for its handle to clear.
The aluminum adapters have sockets for a 1/2" ratchet, breaker bar or serpentine belt tool, plus a hex for a standard open-end wrench or box-end wrench/ring spanner, which can help when there is limited clearance from the top of the oil filter.
The black stamped steel and aluminum adapters are available in affordable kits that contain numerous sizes.
The Jaguar special tool requires the least clearance at the end of the filter, especially if you're using a longer filter, but it does not fit some of the available filters.
I usually reach first for the steel band-type wrench simply because I know it almost always works, although on some XKs the clearance can be so tight that it's difficult to work the band up and around the filter.
Obviously, there are other filters that members may be using, including Jaguar C2C41611 and Mahle OC602, but the ones above are all I have on hand right now.
Strangely enough, over 55 years of spannering I have never felt the need to purchase any dedicated oil filter removal tools. I have a chain wrench and a strap wrench but they are general tools and I've used them for many other jobs over the years. I would say that the Stillsons are the tool are I have used most often for oil filters as they can be used in the normal way on the side of the filter or used sidewards across the end, whichever clearance is better and will work on any kind of end design.
Richard
Last edited by RichardS; Sep 20, 2024 at 03:39 AM.
Strangely enough, over 55 years of spannering I have never felt the need to purchase any dedicated oil filter removal tools. I have a chain wrench and a strap wrench but they are general tools and I've used them for many other jobs over the years. I would say that the Stillsons are the tool are I have used most often for oil filters as they can be used in the normal way on the side of the filter or used sidewards across the end, whichever clearance is better and will work on any kind of end design.
I finally invested in sets of the aluminum and stamped-steel adapters because on so many modern vehicles there just isn't enough clearance around the filter to use a standard band-type filter wrench or Stillsons (what we call a pipe wrench in the U.S.) or Channellocks (water pump pliers). And with my arthritis, I need help tightening the new filter to 2/3 to 3/4 turn after the gasket makes contact and I don't like to scar the paint on the new filter. For you blokes with strong hands, carry on.