that'll heat-cycle to death pretty quick if you leave it there for the long run, but it would last long enough for you to figure out what final size you actually want in that spot. size up a few layers at a time until it's really a good interference fit because that stuff is gonna be soft and pliable from just the latent heat while you're testing.

there's high-temp tape that might work here. never tried it. you might have to fold some in half to contour it so that the silicone joint has something to press onto. it's usually got fiber matting inside and an aluminum sheath.

 

I went with the electrical tape... considering its all over the harnesses in the engine bay and has been holding up well in there.

Everything fit pretty well, however the inner arch liners needed some persuasion to go back in. There is a slight bulge on each side, but didn't look like the tire was rubbing on full lock to lock.

Here are some final assembly pics.

The hangers ended up really simple and came out nice.



Some adjustments had to be made to turn the MAF out of the way. Right now they can be removed/cleaned just by removing the headlight units.


The way they are pointing, I'm actually getting some ram air from the lower grill going into the front of the cone also.


I'm still not sure how to secure the front, so I zip tied it for now. Everything is nice and tight but still loose enough to wiggle. The only 'permanent' modification was cutting the tab in the front bumper seen here.


Resonator plugged and RTV'd.


​​​​​​​

 

After re-connecting the battery, the startup looked like this:
1st attempt: just kept cranking, cranking, then stopped cranking
2nd attempt: cranked, fired then died and kinda sounded like Optimus Prime transforming:
3rd attempt: cranked, fired for a bit longer, then died
4th attempt: fired up a bit rough but eventually started to idle normally

I guess it just took a few attempts for the ECU to realize what was going on. Anyway, after a few stop/starts, warm up, and some weird fuel pressure readings (0-9 kPa, with a P0087 code thrown), everything seemed to level out. Fuel pressure now normal, statup normal, STFT are still a bit high, but we will see if that flags a CEL later.

Whine really comes out under load, at around 3000 RPM. Sounds great. Heres a clip, ignore the wind:

Got a flat tire today of course, so won't be able to upload any data till next week probably. But just from the short drive everything seemed good!

 

You probably already realize this but you will now have to be careful of exposure to water with the intakes that low. I've not driven through water with them BUT when the filters were exposed to water, their flow was measurably reduced.

 

Yes I thought about that when I was reading your thread. I will obviously avoid puddles as much as possible. As for rain, the plan was to go to the car wash and see how wet they would actually get. I'll have to test it out another time and just avoid rain for now. Aside from a heavy storm, I don't think rain should be that much of an issue.

 

There is a cross air straightener screen before the maf unit, did you guys leave it in the aftermarket setup ? Jahummer?

 

They will get very wet after a wash so be careful in that area

 

Nice clean resonator plug!, what did you use?

 

Yes it was retained along with the stock MAF assembly/holder.

 

Same here.

 

I did get a P0101 code on my 2nd test drive, maybe its the fact that I did not use the OEM strainers? Just got back from a trip so need a few more days to figure it out.

The plugs are the white rubber ones pictured above. I used black RTV to seal them and put a thin layer on the top to get rid of all the white.

 

the harnesses ought to be done up with a specific loom tape such as:
i don't think its recommended for sealing air gaps because its got fabric in it and is designed for rejecting engine heat. the 88 you used which is not heat/oil vapor resistant enough for engine bays in general, will actually do a better job at sealing air (until it eventually hardens and fails) than loom tape would.

edit: i think there is a 3M high temp 88 that would last longer than a cheap off-brand roll?

 

Yea I suspectaf can't read properly without the OEM air straighteners

 

Ok so I'm a bit concerned right now... I put the stock intake back on, reset the battery, and its still having a hard time with cold starts.

Fuel trims trending high around 10-20 while my fuel pressure readings are 0-15 kPA. However the car drives just fine when warm. After a while the fuel pressure returns to normal ~300 kPA.

The low fuel pressure is really bugging me out. I think that's the source of the cold start issues. Where can I plug in a gauge to measure the actual pressure? At the rail?

Only code I got was P0087 which was expected. Bad sensor? Replaced that piece of crap 3 times already!!

To make things worse, as I lowered the front of the car, I noticed a nice pool of transmission fluid on the ground. Connector sleeve went from being "a bit wet" to "leaking like crazy" literally overnight.

I should have never started this thread ....

 

Its ok , **** happens., You will figure it out . You can reset file trim by unplugging battery. Could be leak somewhere in the intake , this fuel trims.
Transmission fluid , check underneath for any physical damage

 

Thanks for the vote of confidence. The trans leak is from the connector sleeve. However it doesn't leak while the car is on level ground. Only while I had the front end up for 2 weeks.

With the CEL on, the car runs normally. I guess it ignored the FPR sensor reading and uses a default value directly from the pump? The P0087 and P0193 are pointing to a bad harness, since I've already replaced the sensor more than once. I will swap it out with the older one to verify.

Assuming a bad wire/harness, what are my options?

Only good news is the air intake mod didn't cause any of this, so I'll refit it once I straighten this crap out.

 

I really have to double check my spelling before I voice type and post without checking
I had an XKR here with p0193 code recently, It was a bad connection at the plug on top of the engine . Cleaned reconnected no more code . Just some food for thought