Any thoughts on the following two options:

Shell: http://tdc.ge/wp-content/uploads/201...L_AF_5W-20.pdf

Total: http://www.lubadmin.com/upload/produ...ng_44/8779.pdf

Both seem to meet the M2c-925-A spec.

 

Dont have any input on the specific question you asked.

However, if your ultimate question was about finding an easy to obtain oil, I was in the same boat recently and settled for this German oil after extensive research. It has Jaguar's formal approval.
https://www.ravenol.de/en/products/u...sae-5w-20.html
https://www.ravenolamerica.com/passe...l-economy-sfe/

 

Neil, those two you asked about have different viscosities, was that intentional?

 

Certainly looks like a good choice but the same price level as Castrol Edge, so why change?
What worries me a little is that Jaguar state that the original fill is 8.9l and a change fill with filter change is about 7.2l. 1.7l of old remains in the engine at each change. It would suit me - low mileage user - to change the oil more frequently if it was not so expensive and dilute out the remaining oil oil more often.

In Germany at least, the Shell and total oils I listed are half the price of Castrol Edge or the Ravenol. I expect that they are not quite as high tech. oils but, especially in the case of the Total offering, I'm not sure. It seems to tick most boxes apart from probably not being fully synthetic.

 

Yes, only because they both seem to meet the Ford spec current and applicable when the engine was designed. The difference between 0w-xx and 5w-xx in terms of viscosity is very minor above -30 deg.C, so I can't really see a problem with either.

 

Ravenol because Castrol does not sell to the public or non jaguar dealers. So availability and freshness is a constant issue. I cant stock up for an oil change 12 months out and the oil was 2 years old in the first place. (as I discovered). Sure it lasts forever and that is a separate argument. But for my money, I simply want the best. Ravenol delivered.

The thing to be extremely careful about in our direct injected engine is the carbon. Oil is a major culprit. Simply put, an oil that has higher evaporation loss will give you more carbon.
Castrol has been very good with this, because it was formulated to address this, as was the Ravenol.
Here is a video that explains it very well. .

Regarding your concern with the oil that is left over during change or does not get changed.
Your suspicion is right that very little oil is needed to corrupt new oil. Another reason the extended drain interval oils like Castrol will perform better. (As will Ravenol).
But there is a better way. Flush the engine with cheaper oil combined with engine flush*.
Germans have also started using and making several brands of safe modern engine flush.
It basically breaks down the 'glue' as it were in oil. You can see the results.
The engine flush I use is made by a company that made its reputation on protecting seals and viscosity. https://www.lubegard.com/products/engineflush/

 

 

I used this last oil change, figured 'why not' as it's made specifically for GDI engines to reduce carbon. Does it work???? Beats me, but since it won't be WORSE than other oils I gave it a try.

https://www.counterman.com/valvoline...newer-engines/

 

One note on the price. In USA all Group 5 oils cost the same.
For instance if Mobil1 sells an oil at $25 a gallon, in Group 5 that same brand will be $60 or more a gallon.

 

But then don't I have nearly 2 litres of cheaper oil diluted with flush detergents mixed with my new oil?

There doesn't seem to be a really good answer to this other than to use long-life oil but change more often than theoretically necessary, which is expensive.

Or stop worrying about it and relax with a litre or two of good red ...

 

You have confused yourself.
Dont worry about the residual oil, no one does, and its not the amount you believe.

However, if you use engine flush, it will help you get more of it out. As I said it breaks down the viscosity.

If you use cheap oil to do the flush, which is entirely optional as you can do it with the existing dirty oil, what you will have is very small amount of new oil, as opposed to very small amount of fouled oil. Its the fouled oil that triggers new oil to start deteriorating.
But long change oil like Castrol already has things in it to fight this early deterioration.
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So lets start new. Your question essentially is, 'I am a perfectionist, how can I do a better job than the average oil change'
Answer; Flush with cheap oil, its like adding 3 months life to whatever oil you use.
Which answers your further question about, how not to throw money away on unnecessary oil changes- with expensive oil which you have no choice but to use.

 

Typically, the residual oil in an engine after draining is low enough to be of no practical concern but the quoted values for the 5.0 engine seem significant:

From page 683 of the X150 workshop manual:

Initial fill: 8.90 Litres
Service fill with filter change: 7.25 Litres

I'm assuming that the difference is the not-drainable volume of oil.

So, per oil change, 1.65 Litres or 18.5% of the old oil or my flush mix is mixed with the new oil. That appears fairly significant to me. If this is really the case, then simple (no flushing, i.e., no adding anything that is not supposed to be there) but fairly frequent oil changes would appear to be the safest way to go.

 

I believe there must be a misprint.

I usually need over 8liters of oil at time of replacement. Going by the digital dipstick.

No way can any new oil handle 18% of the old oil. Especially on extended drain of 12 months. So I know that its logically not possible. What would happen is the new oil would oxidize within couple of months. Plus if one is not removing 18% of the old oil they are not removing 18% of the sooth, it would be a disaster.

I will be doing an oil change in a few days. Will post exact amount put back in.

 

I decided to try the Total oil.

Removing the existing oil added up to about 7 litres and 7 litres went back in when the display read full. So the refill capacity seems about right. I have no way of confirming the 8.9 litres figure unless Jaguar checks it for me

 

Interesting read here. Yesterday I just did my 1st oil change on my 2016 Chevy 5.3L pickup. I bought oil at my autozone and it was the 1st time I saw this info. I got Valvoline 0W-20 which is supposed to be new and listed for 2012 engines or newer with GDI engines. So that along with a 10,000 oil filter cost me $85 for (2) 5 quart containers. My truck engine takes 8 quarts . I just turned 10,800 miles on the truck and the initial oil change was done by the dealer at 5,000 miles. So this will be my test vehicle and I'll have to see how it works through time. Also based on the above video maybe I'll start adding FI cleaner in this as well as the Jag.

 

The same stuff I linked in post #8 above? I'm happy with it so far, course what could a person learn in six months and only 3,000 miles...