This is a straight bolt on install. The casing of F-Type LSD is different though. It's all aluminum and somewhat different shape and somewhat lighter leave alone guts.

As I was researching I came across this document:
http://www.resyl.net/atvfiles/ViscoLok-engl.pdf

Apparently the F-Type LSD is a clutch plate type, not a Torsen or any other worm gear type. I've made this conclusion based on the observable inner part of the diff I've obtained.

Thanks to flyc2c for his instructions those were helpful though designed for 4,2 XKR. For those who will attempt this swap take special care of K-bracket M12 bolts as damage to the vehicle body is possible because rusted bolts can snap the cage nuts.

I used new diff mounting bolts to prevent electrolytic corrosion on aluminum casing - metallic bolt pair.

Haven't done too many miles so far, but my XK feels much more agile and focused. I do support flyc2c in his claim LSD transforms this car. Smooth and seamless operation, the car really pulls from stand still, far less slippage. DSC does intervene under hard throttle when on, but it does that less often. Didn't try donuts so far

There are several options of F-Type V6 diffs. One that fits straight bolt on is the S trim, automatic transmission RWD as it has the same 3:31:1 ratio. This one is what I've installed. Part N is visible on one of the pictures.

Happy motoring everyone!

 

more pics
Last one is the replaced OEM XK 5.0L open diff.

 

Well, this will probably fit some XFs and XJs as well.

 

Nice work!

 

I'm glad you like your rear end as much as I like mine! Well done sir.

 

While LSD is very desirable performance option in a RWD car, before you rush to replace yours please pause to consider reliability. F-type S makes 339 lb·ft, if you exceed that in your car you will likely damage the differential. More so, there are some reported LSD failures from F-type owners, so it might not even be adequate for 339 lb·ft when pushed.

 

It was flyc2c's instructions that I followed in installing my Quaife lsd.

Best mod I have made to my car!

 

well done, did you had any problems with driveshafts lenght or socket diferencies between xk 5.0(gen3) diff and f-type?

 

Elviukai, no issues so far, 5k miles. As I stated, it's a straight bolt on. Nice add-on not only for spirited or track driving but also a must have for Moscow winter driving. Some more observations: the diff doesn't limit slip when in rear gear; nice 11s in any steering angle conditions, just floor it. Can do donuts for hours, I doubt E-diff would withstand that (I did that in icy and cold winter conditions only so that the load was minimal. Would not suggest abuse the mechanical diff in grippy conditions as there would be no indication for overheating)

Regards

 

Здраствуите Андреи,
same here.
the main reason for me is not spirited driving, but ability to get out of garden in autumn when there is lot of mud.its even worse than winter snow/ice. i have tried diferent tyres, from michelin super sports to continental sport contact 5, even winter pirelli sotto zero doenst help- one wheel spin in the mud. must have assistance to make car moove. this looks really funny(for neighboards not me) when in +10C' can can moove from garden.
the problem is tham my car is 2008 xf superchargederly VIN. it used gen2 driveline,i think my back frame even doesn not have hole for third bold of differential .so i need to chande propshaft, crankshafts, and to make things even worse my gear ration is 3.07 not like in 5.0 NA 3.31 need to reprogram car (with distant help from Cambo, he is only 23 000km from me)
another problem is torque my car have 100nM more torgue and i realy dont think differential will hold spirite drivings too much, maybe even hard starts.. but ability to moove in autumn or winter is must..

 

Shouldn't be a huge deal to swap the gear set from one rear to the other if they share the same part numbers for different ratios across chassis'.

 

its diferent manufacturer of those diff so internals really wontfit i think..

 

Your best option is Quaife, some threads to take a look at are:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/j...ntials-134733/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...lation-155867/

 

XK 5.0 NA is rated at 515 N⋅m (380 lbf⋅ft) @ 3,500; F-type S is rated at 460 N⋅m (339 lb⋅ft)@3500–5000;
So, this is a very good point, and those who go this way should be aware of the fact. Well, my OEM open diff was a toast and long due for replacement at 50k miles (harsh shifts from R to D which I blamed on the gearbox first, wasn't the case though), so I decided to give this swap a try. I just didn't see it was worthwhile to stick to OEM which will fail anyway.

 

its too late now.. already biuing full rear subframe to acomodate gen3 diferential. but i have feeling that some late 4.2SC xf may have 3.31 ratio. because they have unique diff- looks like gen3 but only 3 mounting points instead of 4

 

OK, F-type LSD fitted to early XF (changed rear subframe with all bits + propshaft)


I was surprised that car did not went to Rectricted performance mode(3.07 ratio diff changed to 3.31), i was even prepared for limp mode to home, but nope


its very hard to say on -20C' weather but seesm DSC behaves diferently- it seems kicks too early,or most likely was get used to wrong DSC by using one size larger tyres in height( wheels spinned before DSC took control, and on DSC track i was able to slide quite much) now DSC does not let slip wheels. probably lower gearing makes more power and incombiantion with LSD with disabled DSC car for the first time ofers goosebumps for me


if memory serves me well it also behaves a bit different than E-difs at 5.0SC models.


now I have another problem- what kind of diff f-type S is- torsen or clutch. I tried to search for oil but nothing can be found except that oil capasity is only 0.8liter. i used Eurol oil Fultrasyn 75w90, but i have heard that some LSD are very picky about oil and wrong oil can damage plastic parts or even clutches(in clutch type lsd)


Andrei what oil did you used?

 

I used C2D 3650 which is factory recommended with no friction modifiers (some forum members argue that a friction modifier should be used). In my original tread starting post I noted that the diff is a clutch type most likely and there is a link for GKN document.

I'm impressed that you've managed to go through this complicated conversion in such a short time, Elviukai, congrats!

It's fricking cold -21C but my cat behaves just fine

 

there is nothing complicated in this process( comparing to what i gone when adapted facelift climate and hazzard controls to my prefacelift)- just drive 650 km to pick up diff, then next day rent van and 1000km to pick up complete subframe/poroshaft and third day to swap subframes (well remove diesel diff, add f-type diff, remoove shocks and instal mine (as they are active) I would do this faster earlier but third phase was delayed because of cold here is -18C'


all conversion cost was 260eur diff, 270eur rear complete subframe and 11eur oil. I get back 120eur for left diff from diesel and also wll get 50eur for shocks. and i still have old complete subframe which i can sell discs, brakes, elelcrical handbrake sensors,driveshafts, propshafts, frame itself. I think when count everything this upgrade will for free or maybe with slight profit to compensate IAM and upgrade cost for cambo which helped me a lot. so no complaints here


if i would go dealer way and buy new diff and new whole subframe and pay dealer instalation it would be ik 10 000EUR+ range I' fine with slight used diff( 7500km mileage)

as for oil its not so easy I think , there is BOT 720 and 720B and seems none of it is for 3.0SC LSD. if this diff is GKN visco lock as you told (same as BMW or viper) a Castrol syntax 74w140 LSD is needed. I put eurol 75w90 which was the only oil recomended to f-type with my oil suplier. but 75w/140 and 75w/90 is quite a big diferencies..