AC blower motor+screen off, need help or advice please, may have ruined something
You need to use a real battery charger, not a trickle charger or maintainer. And you need to have that battery load tested as I previously mentioned.
Terminology matters.

A trickle charger is a dumb device that produces 1-2 amps constantly, without electronic circuitry to automatically reduce the charge and shut itself off. It constantly charges very slowly, and can damage a battery because it can eventually boil out the electrolyte. Don't hold your breath waiting for a trickle charger to recharge a weak battery.
A battery maintainer is a smart device that also charges slowly, and has electronic circuitry that monitors the state of charge and vary the output to keep that battery at or near a full charge. It takes a battery maintainer a long time to recharge a weak battery, although a bit faster than a trickle charger.
A real battery charger is a smart device that produces a high output of at least 10 amps, which makes it best suited for charging a weak battery. The greater the output (amps), the faster the charge. High output models can jump start a car.
Use the right tool to get the job done.
Terminology matters.
A trickle charger is a dumb device that produces 1-2 amps constantly, without electronic circuitry to automatically reduce the charge and shut itself off. It constantly charges very slowly, and can damage a battery because it can eventually boil out the electrolyte. Don't hold your breath waiting for a trickle charger to recharge a weak battery.
A battery maintainer is a smart device that also charges slowly, and has electronic circuitry that monitors the state of charge and vary the output to keep that battery at or near a full charge. It takes a battery maintainer a long time to recharge a weak battery, although a bit faster than a trickle charger.
A real battery charger is a smart device that produces a high output of at least 10 amps, which makes it best suited for charging a weak battery. The greater the output (amps), the faster the charge. High output models can jump start a car.
Use the right tool to get the job done.
Update to anyone still looking at this,
Today, after charging/maintaining the battery all night and a bit over the day, I re-replaced all the fuses I did last time, none were blown, and I replaced a few more that I did not do last time. the new ones today namely, "Front power point, premium audio amplifier, cooling fan", "Cabin accesory power", "Interior lamp switched power comprises - map, couirtesy, footwell, sunvisor, glovebox, In car aspirator", "Sirius Satellite power", "IHU Supply" (did this before, also did Blower motor fuse, general AC fuse), "Power Amp supply", may be some I did but missed listing. I tested all engine compartment fuses and they were good, as I can easily reach the tester on them, although I believe nothing related to the ac is in the engine compartment fuse box.
After doing this, the computer screen and lights returned, so one of the replaced fuses must have been faulty, not entirely pushed in or something, still no luck on AC blower but did some more troubleshooting.
I put the old blower in with new resistor, and took old and new blower out of the compartment and tested them wired up on a box in the footwell to visually inspect the fans.
When starting the car, the fan will move for a second and then stop, I hear a slight whirring sound which sounds like a low speed fan in the area but the blower fan is not moving,
Both the new blower and old blower will slightly spin the fan for less than a second and then stop when starting the car, there is also a small sound coming from the area.
I will next try to figure out my complex volt meter and see if I can test the positive and negative wires connecting to the fan.
I at least feel like I undid my mess with the screen working.
Thanks for reading.
Today, after charging/maintaining the battery all night and a bit over the day, I re-replaced all the fuses I did last time, none were blown, and I replaced a few more that I did not do last time. the new ones today namely, "Front power point, premium audio amplifier, cooling fan", "Cabin accesory power", "Interior lamp switched power comprises - map, couirtesy, footwell, sunvisor, glovebox, In car aspirator", "Sirius Satellite power", "IHU Supply" (did this before, also did Blower motor fuse, general AC fuse), "Power Amp supply", may be some I did but missed listing. I tested all engine compartment fuses and they were good, as I can easily reach the tester on them, although I believe nothing related to the ac is in the engine compartment fuse box.
After doing this, the computer screen and lights returned, so one of the replaced fuses must have been faulty, not entirely pushed in or something, still no luck on AC blower but did some more troubleshooting.
I put the old blower in with new resistor, and took old and new blower out of the compartment and tested them wired up on a box in the footwell to visually inspect the fans.
When starting the car, the fan will move for a second and then stop, I hear a slight whirring sound which sounds like a low speed fan in the area but the blower fan is not moving,
Both the new blower and old blower will slightly spin the fan for less than a second and then stop when starting the car, there is also a small sound coming from the area.
I will next try to figure out my complex volt meter and see if I can test the positive and negative wires connecting to the fan.
I at least feel like I undid my mess with the screen working.
Thanks for reading.
Update to anyone still looking at this,
Today, after charging/maintaining the battery all night and a bit over the day, I re-replaced all the fuses I did last time, none were blown, and I replaced a few more that I did not do last time. the new ones today namely, "Front power point, premium audio amplifier, cooling fan", "Cabin accesory power", "Interior lamp switched power comprises - map, couirtesy, footwell, sunvisor, glovebox, In car aspirator", "Sirius Satellite power", "IHU Supply" (did this before, also did Blower motor fuse, general AC fuse), "Power Amp supply", may be some I did but missed listing. I tested all engine compartment fuses and they were good, as I can easily reach the tester on them, although I believe nothing related to the ac is in the engine compartment fuse box.
After doing this, the computer screen and lights returned, so one of the replaced fuses must have been faulty, not entirely pushed in or something, still no luck on AC blower but did some more troubleshooting.
I put the old blower in with new resistor, and took old and new blower out of the compartment and tested them wired up on a box in the footwell to visually inspect the fans.
When starting the car, the fan will move for a second and then stop, I hear a slight whirring sound which sounds like a low speed fan in the area but the blower fan is not moving,
Both the new blower and old blower will slightly spin the fan for less than a second and then stop when starting the car, there is also a small sound coming from the area.
I will next try to figure out my complex volt meter and see if I can test the positive and negative wires connecting to the fan.
I at least feel like I undid my mess with the screen working.
Thanks for reading.
Today, after charging/maintaining the battery all night and a bit over the day, I re-replaced all the fuses I did last time, none were blown, and I replaced a few more that I did not do last time. the new ones today namely, "Front power point, premium audio amplifier, cooling fan", "Cabin accesory power", "Interior lamp switched power comprises - map, couirtesy, footwell, sunvisor, glovebox, In car aspirator", "Sirius Satellite power", "IHU Supply" (did this before, also did Blower motor fuse, general AC fuse), "Power Amp supply", may be some I did but missed listing. I tested all engine compartment fuses and they were good, as I can easily reach the tester on them, although I believe nothing related to the ac is in the engine compartment fuse box.
After doing this, the computer screen and lights returned, so one of the replaced fuses must have been faulty, not entirely pushed in or something, still no luck on AC blower but did some more troubleshooting.
I put the old blower in with new resistor, and took old and new blower out of the compartment and tested them wired up on a box in the footwell to visually inspect the fans.
When starting the car, the fan will move for a second and then stop, I hear a slight whirring sound which sounds like a low speed fan in the area but the blower fan is not moving,
Both the new blower and old blower will slightly spin the fan for less than a second and then stop when starting the car, there is also a small sound coming from the area.
I will next try to figure out my complex volt meter and see if I can test the positive and negative wires connecting to the fan.
I at least feel like I undid my mess with the screen working.
Thanks for reading.
Richard
I re-read this entire thread and you never told us how old that battery is or if you had it load tested as recommended in Post #13, above.
My bet is that your battery is old and weak. Prove me wrong. Get it load tested.
@JeremiahLovesJags , have a look at the thread of similar issues with @KILOCHARLIE .
Heed @Stuart S advice. It is spot on.
Heed @Stuart S advice. It is spot on.
Last edited by guy; May 21, 2022 at 07:30 AM.
Just because your battery maintainer was on that battery for 17 hours doesn't mean that it's fully charged and healthy. How do you know that battery can hold a charge?
I re-read this entire thread and you never told us how old that battery is or if you had it load tested as recommended in Post #13, above.
My bet is that your battery is old and weak. Prove me wrong. Get it load tested.

I re-read this entire thread and you never told us how old that battery is or if you had it load tested as recommended in Post #13, above.
My bet is that your battery is old and weak. Prove me wrong. Get it load tested.
plan to load test it, although I believe re doing all the fuses fixed the screen because it has had no issues since, hopefully ac issue is battery related. also plan to reset as jahummer said.
You likely “fixed” the infotainment issue when you were checking fuses and actually reset the system, similar to what I suggested with the battery cable disconnect. As for the blower fan, I reckon it’s not as simple as a battery. Could be the climate module below the screen, I’ve seen those fail. Also what you describe could be a faulty resistor.
https://www.samarins.com/glossary/bl...-resistor.html
https://www.samarins.com/glossary/bl...-resistor.html
You likely “fixed” the infotainment issue when you were checking fuses and actually reset the system, similar to what I suggested with the battery cable disconnect. As for the blower fan, I reckon it’s not as simple as a battery. Could be the climate module below the screen, I’ve seen those fail. Also what you describe could be a faulty resistor.
https://www.samarins.com/glossary/bl...-resistor.html
https://www.samarins.com/glossary/bl...-resistor.html
are you referring to the ATC/auto temperature control module? I see that looking at some of the different diagrams, only scary thing is that some are saying it is a dash out job..
will test the resistor, but both the old one and the new one do not work, so by odds I assume the new one is not bad and it is something else, but it could be, won't know until I figure out the voltmeter settings and test it.
to anyone wondering about battery
I did get some free time to load test it with a voltmeter directly on terminals
I do not yet understand all the voltmeter controls for blower motor area wires, but on the battery the voltage was 12.75, it did not drop below 10.00 before jumping up from alternator when turning the car on afterwards.
I did get some free time to load test it with a voltmeter directly on terminals
I do not yet understand all the voltmeter controls for blower motor area wires, but on the battery the voltage was 12.75, it did not drop below 10.00 before jumping up from alternator when turning the car on afterwards.
"AUTO EXPERT SAYS MOST PEOPLE ARE IDIOTS"
Yeah, that's a sad reflection upon today's state of self-reliance.
Yeah, that's a sad reflection upon today's state of self-reliance.
Last edited by Cee Jay; Jun 2, 2022 at 09:37 AM. Reason: My paraphrase was misinterpreted
I have taken it to be tested twice, both times neither stores used a terminal voltmeter. The testing according to that was good however, but at home I followed the basic 3 step voltmeter process, first prior to starting, second watching how low the voltage drops immediately upon starting, and finally after starting while running, the off battery was 12.75.
not a bad question, but yes, it does move, (the new one and the old one, although the old one looks rough and has particulate that comes out of it and whines while spinning), with both fans and testing both plugged in but uninstalled, when I turn on the car they will spin for half a second and do nothing else.
@JeremiahLovesJags , sorry to hear of your woes.
But something isn’t adding up here. It is one of the simplest of fixes for the mechanically inclined. And I am suprised it is going on so long.
Ask yourself,
Are you using the appropriate quality replacement parts?
Was there anything else touched?
Was the wiring harness pulled to tightly?
Are all connectors in good order and appropriately seated?
Was the procedure outlined in the Workshop Manual followed?
Etcetera.
With the number of hours on this perhaps its best to seek qualified assistance?
But something isn’t adding up here. It is one of the simplest of fixes for the mechanically inclined. And I am suprised it is going on so long.
Ask yourself,
Are you using the appropriate quality replacement parts?
Was there anything else touched?
Was the wiring harness pulled to tightly?
Are all connectors in good order and appropriately seated?
Was the procedure outlined in the Workshop Manual followed?
Etcetera.
With the number of hours on this perhaps its best to seek qualified assistance?
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