ah okay thanks. I’m not tracking the car just doing the occasional canyon drive. Better than stock though right? Will any dash lights come on?

 

No errors as long as you pull the fuse to the CATS module in the left footwell fuse box. And yes it is better in the sense that you have adjustable rebound/compression, adjustable ride height and custom springs rates available. The factory dampers do a great job of automatically switch from soft to hard on demand but they tend to have more body roll than coil overs.

 

Hi. Im thinking to get a set for my car. May i know how did you remove the error message on the meter?

https://www.driftworks.com/bc-coilov...ustomization=1

 

Remove the fuse in the left front foot well for the CATS system and you will not have any errors when the OEM coilovers are disconnected and removed.

 

Okay. Thank you.

 

Is this the one?

Fuse F14?

 

Yes that is the one. What year is your car?

 

Mine is a 2008 XK 4.2 NA. I'm having sounds from my absorbers. But it seems like is the shock mounts only. The mileage is only 31,000KM done. I'm still thinking whether I should change to coilovers or either back to stock shocks. But now I'm having the error message on my instrument cluster "CATS System Fault". I have plug in to diagnose and it shows "C110D-14 Front right damper solenoid and C110D-1D Front right damper solenoid"

 

Did you try pulling the fuse? With no power to the module it won’t be able to detect the dampers.

 

Yes, i got it. After pulling off the fuse the error message is gone. Thank you so much!

 

Following up on this... did you get a spec for your offsets?

My stock wheels are 19" Tamana, which use the following sizes:
Front inside clearance measurements taken between the knuckle and the inside edge of the tire.
Rear inside clearance measurements taken between the wheel well liner surface and the inside edge of the tire.
Outside clearance measurements taken using a hanging string from the inside of the panel lip, and a straight edge sitting on the tire's outermost edge.

Front: (245/40/19 tires with 8.5" et49 wheels) This size has ~10mm of inside clearance, and ~15mm of outside clearance.
Rear: (275/35/19 tires with 9.5: et51 wheels). This size has ~32mm of inside clearance, and ~3mm of outside clearance.

This size

Here's my research for maximum sizing:

Front: (275/35/19 tires with 9.5" et45 wheels)


This size will push the wheel edges ~9mm inwards and ~16mm outwards in the front.

Rear: (315/30/19 tires with 11.5" et51 wheels)


This size will push the wheel edges ~25mm inwards and ~13mm outwards in the back.

You will notice, this is essentially the same as moving the back wheels to the front and adding a 6mm spacer... Something commonly done with stock wheels.

For reference, @MaximA installed 295/30/20 on 11" et40 wheels to get this look. He had 305/30/20... but they rubbed. The 295 sizing that doesn't rub means there's 99mm between the rotor face and the outside edge. So, this is the limit. However, this size leaves quite a bit of back spacing open (24mm to be exact).

Compared to MaximA's setup for the front, the wheels are identical except for diameter. I believe that using a 19" wheel should allow for a 275/35 tire to fit rather than a 265/35 tire.
Compared to MaximA's setup for the rear, using the 11" et51 wheel and 315/30 tire shown above, the inside gap is reduced from 24mm to 7mm, while the outside gets pulled in by 4mm (95mm between the rotor and outsize edge, vs 99mm) so rubbing should not be an issue at all.

 

I've got 305/30/20 Cup 2s mounted on 10.5 rims with a 30 offset, with a track focused alignment and corner balancing, no rubbing whatsoever.

 

You have a 4.2, right? That changes things quite a bit at the rear. If we know the difference in hub dimensions, we could see how your setup compares to what I've calculated above.

What are you running in the front?

 

Because of the e-diff, the difference is only offset? Surely the wheel wells are the same. The fronts are 265/35 on 9 wide rims with a 37mm offset.

 

I don't know all the differences, to be honest. I just know that a 30mm offset will push the wheels out way too far on a 5.0 car.

 

In light of the lack of B4 OEM replacements and the ridiculous prices as well, I reached out to BC Racing and asked about the BR series and understand the spring rates. The gent said it will be a 20% stiffer ride and the car will ride an inch lower. I noted that the website said no sacrificing ride height and his reply was "compared to other coilovers." Not sure what the hell that means but I wasn't getting anywhere with him so I thought I'd revisit this thread and ask. Given your experience @jahummer - and I know you have the DC series, do you see other options for replacement coilover's?
I don't race the car. No track, just Grand Tourer.

 

Couldn't you simply add a 1" spacer to the coil? Or get the coil specs and shop for similar but with more static height?

also I was following this thread for the x100s,
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...er-kit-223323/

and considering contacting them @ the x150


wj

 

Did you speak with a dealer or did you speak directly with BC's Orlando FL headquarters? Ride height's adjustable, springs can be ordered with custom rates, dampening/rebound also adjustable. Can't speak for OEM replacement comparison as I went for stiffer springs. I'd the Eibachs which were a bit stiffer than stock rates and going to the BCs, even stiffer. The ride's completely different and definitely no longer a GT tourer. But they likely can match up some springs to provide a softer ride.

 

Thanks I would have thought the same but and I called BC directly. I think I'll try calling their tech support instead of sales.

 

I just checked P B brakes and they are offering a kit for the x100. Maybe a few inquiries might get them to do an x150 kit. FWIW the x100 kit is just under 900 usd.