Tyres to 40 psi, when I used to lay my mgc up I'd also apply lithium grease to the rubber.

Intelligent trickle charger yes, also a dehumidifier in the cabin...one of those crystal based ones

No need to start it at all, unless out of curiosity

Ensure it's washed thoroughly dried and with a nice coat of wax...car cover optional. And minimal fuel in the tank as this degrades by a couple of points a month.

Sweet dreams!

 

 

You'll lose a percentage of gas whether used or not, just the nature of the AC beast.

I'd just drive it a couple miles on nice dry days. You guys do them on occasion during the winter right? Blown cars love cold weather.

Cold doesn't bother them unless the windows freeze to the doors. Then the car thinks the glass is down when it's up and you need to unhook the battery to get them to reset correctly. PITA...

 

 

3 months is nothing- my car frequently does that in summer (more cars than time)
However there is one thing that even die-hard morons have come to realize- gumming of delicate injectors and such, at least the possibility.
So if you want to be extra careful and avoid compounding, use a fuel system cleaner like techron before turning off for last time. As a added bonus, many of these fuel system cleaners are also excellent fuel preservers.

 

Yep the moisture absorbing crystal things.

Forgot to say deep feed your leather so it can all get sucked in (As opposed being removed by your butt).

 

 

 

 

Exactly, for many reasons. Smaller the quantity of gasoline, the sooner it goes bad, like wine in a bottle.

 

If you do run it - and you don't need to - get it decently hot, preferably 20 mile or more run. Don't just start and idle for 5 mins - worse than doing nothing.

+1 on full fuel, proper battery maintainer, etc.

Worry somewhat about rodents!

 

Apologies on the fuel advice, I've not overwintered a car since the 80's (MGC) and such things as fuel stabilisers weren't available in the UK back then

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/STA-BIL-F...YOTY:rk:4:pf:0

Looks like good stuff, and also you'll need the full bottle as treats 75l

On rodents I've noticed the evidence of a few up until a few years ago when I bought one of those ultrasonic things, no signs of any in 2yrs, and weirdly no spiders either!

 

I used to store my old Ferrari as it was prone to rust and being the engine required 20W-50 weight oil it was not conducive to starting in cold weather. As for the Jag I don't do anything different as I do get breaks in the weather where I can drive it. The only thing I keep an eye on is tire pressures and battery condition. At time my car would sit for 2-4 weeks on the lift in an unheated garage. Usually though the garage temps don't fall below 20*F and I have various rodent control methods to keep the critters out. As for fuel I always have it topped up and will still add a fuel stabilizer as a safety measure. I have read that with our 10% ethanol here gas is good for 90 days before it starts to gel. Even though I don't have it down for that long it is a good safety measure to add the stuff. So my simple approach may not be optimum for all but suits my needs. If you search the net you can find many methods people use.

 

Oh yes - if you can put more than 40psi in then do. 60psi if that's allowed - head for the max to prevent flat spots.

 

I put my car up from Nov 1 to Apr 1 each year. This is what I do (not necessarily in order):
Hook up battery maintainer
Tire pressure to 40 lbs (even though I read somewhere that radial tires are not susceptible to flat spots like the old bias tires were)
Oil change (I only put around 5k miles a year on the car. I like to change the oil annually)
Dehumidifier crystals (kit for RV) on front floor
Dryer sheets to keep spiders away (I've also heard this does not do anything, but I've done it for years on my boat)
Marine grade Stabil in gas (Marine grade helps with possible ethanol problems) There is some controversy as to filling the gas tank or not. It don't,.
Wash and dry car
Vacuum
Make sure rotors on disc brakes are dry and clear of any surface rust
Dust cover
I've heard that running your car for short periods of time in the winter does more harm than good, I leave mine alone until Spring
I also keep the car on a rubber mat in the garage year round.

 

 

Another thing that's changed since is the leather.
You said " deep feed your leather so it can all get sucked in "
It no longer gets 'sucked in'*
Caution: you are adding moisture to the car- the very thing you want to remove before storing. So you would have to do this on a warm day.
However, you are not going to feed something that is clear-coated like modern leather is.
*Try it, take a drop of distilled water and see if it gets absorbed, it wont.

 

I would defer the oil change until the spring. Why change oil to only have it sit for months?

 

Not much to add. Consider parking it on poly. Moisture will leach up through the concrete. If you run the car but don't drive it, condensation will collect in the exhaust so run it long enough to burn off the moisture. Mothballs around the outside will deter mice if you have them. Rags in the tailpipe for the same reason, just don't forget you have them in there.