About to remove/replace the blower motor and resistor. I've seen in another thread where, to drop the glove box, you remove 5 torx screws, 2 in the box, two underneath, and one behind the "end cap". Is it this big tan bulbous triangle? If so, the only place I can get my fingers is to pry from the door jamb side (right side) of that piece, but I'm afraid I'm going to break something. Any help would be appreciated!

 

That's it, open the glove box and should be able to pop it right off...

 

yup. When I popped mine off, one of the metal retaining clips popped off the tab. Make sure you account for all of the clips or when you put it back on, it won't be tight.

 

ahh... so you're saying, by opening the glove box, I can pull with my left hand on that left edge?

 

Yep

 

So, today at 3:39 pm (Central), I got conformation of my last question on dropping the glove box. It is now 4:54 pm, and I am DONE replacing my blower motor and resistor. THANK YOU to all that participated in the thread so promptly, but most of all, THANK YOU FOR THIS BOARD!!!! I just saved HUNDREDS of dollars, and now I know just a little bit more about my Jag. I am keeping the glove box out for now in hopes of formulating a plan to fix the broken soft close arm.

Again, Thanks a TON!!!

ETA: Yes, the A/C works now. It was a slightly seized blower motor. I didn't bother to test the resistor. @ $12, it was a small price to pay to ensure just working under the dash ONCE!

 

As an aside, you MUST pull from the left side of that end cap with the glove box open. It would have been a mistake to pull from the right side, as the design of the end cap sort of "hinges" into the side trim at the door jamb. Just a little helpful hint.

 

I fixed my soft-close with a small screw and some JB Weld, just to be safe. Took a couple minutes.

 

Mine's a little more complicated than that. The plastic arm is broken. Snapped off at the base where it connects to the glove box door.

 

There are at least two threads on repairing the glove box door on the Forum. Suggest you type in glove box door in the search box in the upper right corner of this page.

 

Superglue them together using this method: Put a small amount of superglue on the contact points and place the pieces together. Then make a small puddle of superglue at the 90 degree contact points (like a weld), then sprinkle baking soda on the wet superglue. Use a toothpick to spread the mixture. Repeat after it hardens. Do this on both sides of the contact point.

Good luck.

 

That sounds pretty good. I wish I could take the door off the box. I'd do your method, but I've already started mine. I have cut some vinyl pieces from the cover of an old day-timer to go around the post at the base. Just tall enough to act as a wedge within the outer hole. Then I'm going to use ABS cement at the broken base to rejoin as a literal (chemical) weld and then superglue around the new vinyl shims. I've already glued a shim on 3 of the sides (front and sides), but now I will have to sand them down a bit because that one on one side test fit just a little loose. Shim on two sides, won't fit at all.

 

Be sure to post some pix to show us how that works out.

 

Wow. Almost a year later and I realize I forgot to post final pics. I am sorry folks, that's something I really hate, and here I went and did it myself.

Anywho... When I saw this post a few minutes ago, I ran out to the driveway and snapped a couple picks to show you how it turned out.



As you can see, I have some oxidation that I need to figure out how to get rid of. It looked a lot cleaner than that when I finished it up last summer. I'll take any ideas I can get. Baking soda or powder?