I was trying to use SDD to repair a driver's seat module. Something went wrong and I now have a bricked 2008 xk. I'm relatively calm now.
How do I get it unbricked?

 

First try a hard reset, and a fully charged battery?

 

I don't know what bricksit looks like. From what I've read you might have needed a power supply connected to the battery for extra amps. Also using the Chinese Mongoose cable is not recommended.

 

I thought that might be an option and I will try that. I'm charging the battery now. Thanks, I'll let you know.

 

The car is totally dead.

As to the Mongoose cable - whoops!

Thanks for your reply.

Ron

 

Well, ****. You're beyond anything I could state. Good luck, man. Looks like a trip to probably a friendly dealership, if you can find one who will work on it.

 

Jeepers, tragic. I have the CCP Mongoose, only used it to read, not do any programming after reading the forums. Not even sure if I would try with the Jaguar approved adapter.

I'm guessing you can't even connect to the SDD now?

 

Can't even get a response with the key. It is as dead as if the battery were out.

I wouldn't even have tried the SDD except for the fact that the seat was in an undrivable position, and my local dealer is about 125 miles away.

 

Just wondering how a Jag dealer would be able to repair the car if totally dead and unable to connect the SDD? There must be some way to bring the power back up. Unless they have an idea of which module is holding off the power and replace it. There is an almighty fuse in the trunk if I remember rightly, maybe worth a check.

 

Re- think

 

If it were me, I wouldn't do anything else to the vehicle until I replaced the battery with a fully charged, brand new battery. I wouldn't waste time jump starting or determining battery health status. I'd have an auto parts store fully charge a battery overnight and install it tomorrow. Then and only then can you determine if you bricked anything. My guess is at most you bricked a seat module but no one can know this without knowing every step you took and why, etc, and certainly can't know anything without a battery replacement.

 

"If it were me" I'd want to check some voltages and links - this relay link (and 15 Amp mini fuse) powers the aux junction box which itself powers other electronics via relay link R2 in the bottom diagram.

 

No lights, no nothing I would assume a main fuse.

 

I am going to explore the main fuse route after I install a new battery. Fingers crossed 🤞
Thanks for the many replies.

 

I read my own post and came on a little strong. I don't know why I do that. I't's not intentional. I still think it's the battery but no harm in checking the fuses for continuity while you wait on the battery.

 

You could have toasted the battery esp if it's old with the power drain, door open, ignition on. I toasted my older battery having the doors open to do some cleaning. I think the battery was around 6 years old - i didn't connect a charger while doing the work. It would not take a charge after the cleaning. New batt $220 Canadian.

Good luck. Auxiliary Junction Box junction box is between the rear seats, center panel is easily removed.

 

6 years for a battery is pretty good you're just rolling the dice. I change batteries every 4 years as part of maintenance schedule.

 

Were it me...I would take both cables off the battery and connect them for about 30 seconds. Then, reattach and see if you "cleared" the block. I do this after I clear codes with my Autel AP200 and that bricks my car for a minute. I have a 2012 model.

 

That's not a good advert for the Autel. I use a Bluetooth OBDII adapter and Dash Command to clear codes - never had a problem with bricks or mortar,

 

I have the icarsoft and everytime I use it my car is bricked and I have to disconnect battery and reattach , fine after that.