Buying advice, please, 2011 XKR Convertible
Hello everyone, new 'Christian to be thrown to the Lions' reporting for duty...
Asking the World, that I make as little a fool of myself as possible.
Wife has owned an XJ8 in times gone past and bar being underpowered as the 3.2 (she bought it for the colour - go figure), we had it for several years back in the UK.
Now we live in Houston, Texas (yee-haw), she fancies a weekend run-around.
I'm not in the mood to mortgage my kidneys for either a Bentley (pardon the use of 'loose language' in this forum), which she's always been angling for, or anything in a premium wagon that's brand new, so I've found a rather nice looking 2011 XKR Convertible at a reasonable price with 56k miles on the clock with what appears to be a full dealer and independent specialist history. Not a big miler for 14 years.
Wife is well up for that. (Phew!)
It's on the other side of the country, and I'm prepared to jump on a plane and go see it myself. I'm pretty handy around a car - been maintaining my own Saabs for 35 years, as well as Fiats, Renaults, BMW's, Maserati's and the XJ8, plus a bunch of Americans in the past 8 years. Hence, I'm not apprehensive about scoping this one out.
I've boned up on the web advice in what to look for, and the two items which seem to be the bogeymen for the 5.0 Super are a gearbox (transmission) oil and filter change and the coolant leak under the Supercharger. Bit early to worry about the CATS suspension thankfully, but I'm aware they have been a PITA for some in years gone past.
Now, with less than 60k on the clock, and no, I haven't yet seen all the actual service receipts, and let's say, although the prior one-owner seems to have been fastidious, what is the probability that both of these major items are lurking immediately around the corner that I should be negotiating hard to get a discount?
I am told it is in great condition, and at this distance I have to take the seller's word for it (independent non-specialist sales-outlet but has a reputation for retailing high quality vehicles and don't appear to want negative feedback to taint their 30-year reputation).
Let's say my local Cuban wrench-man here in Houston who seems to work on everything from latest model Rollers, all the way back to 1960's MG's, Healeys and everything in between is pitching in the region of 400 bucks for the gearbox oil and filter change and 2800 bucks for the coolant Y's. I suspect that's kind of the going rate...
Advice, based on experience, rather than opinions, would be greatly appreciated as there are as many shysters in this country who would sell you a dog, pretending it's a fox, and there's no come-back when you sober up...
Most of the other interweb advice seems appropriate, so it's what you suggest is worth negotiating on, what's acceptable for a vehicle of this age and what is a definite 'No thanks, mate - you can keep it'.
The one last dangerous can of worms to open.
What's the best extended warranty to put on it - presuming you would do so?
Advice, based on experience, once again, would be gratefully received.
Many thanks,
Clark Wilson.
Houston.
2022 RAM 1500 Limited (Wife drives that)
2020 Jeep Trackhawk (That's mine
)
2012 Ford Expedition Limited (More-than-moon-miler business workhorse)
1991 Saab 9000 CD Carlsson 2.3T AR. (That's my occasional tool-around, show-car and second wife.)
Asking the World, that I make as little a fool of myself as possible.
Wife has owned an XJ8 in times gone past and bar being underpowered as the 3.2 (she bought it for the colour - go figure), we had it for several years back in the UK.
Now we live in Houston, Texas (yee-haw), she fancies a weekend run-around.
I'm not in the mood to mortgage my kidneys for either a Bentley (pardon the use of 'loose language' in this forum), which she's always been angling for, or anything in a premium wagon that's brand new, so I've found a rather nice looking 2011 XKR Convertible at a reasonable price with 56k miles on the clock with what appears to be a full dealer and independent specialist history. Not a big miler for 14 years.
Wife is well up for that. (Phew!)
It's on the other side of the country, and I'm prepared to jump on a plane and go see it myself. I'm pretty handy around a car - been maintaining my own Saabs for 35 years, as well as Fiats, Renaults, BMW's, Maserati's and the XJ8, plus a bunch of Americans in the past 8 years. Hence, I'm not apprehensive about scoping this one out.
I've boned up on the web advice in what to look for, and the two items which seem to be the bogeymen for the 5.0 Super are a gearbox (transmission) oil and filter change and the coolant leak under the Supercharger. Bit early to worry about the CATS suspension thankfully, but I'm aware they have been a PITA for some in years gone past.
Now, with less than 60k on the clock, and no, I haven't yet seen all the actual service receipts, and let's say, although the prior one-owner seems to have been fastidious, what is the probability that both of these major items are lurking immediately around the corner that I should be negotiating hard to get a discount?
I am told it is in great condition, and at this distance I have to take the seller's word for it (independent non-specialist sales-outlet but has a reputation for retailing high quality vehicles and don't appear to want negative feedback to taint their 30-year reputation).
Let's say my local Cuban wrench-man here in Houston who seems to work on everything from latest model Rollers, all the way back to 1960's MG's, Healeys and everything in between is pitching in the region of 400 bucks for the gearbox oil and filter change and 2800 bucks for the coolant Y's. I suspect that's kind of the going rate...
Advice, based on experience, rather than opinions, would be greatly appreciated as there are as many shysters in this country who would sell you a dog, pretending it's a fox, and there's no come-back when you sober up...
Most of the other interweb advice seems appropriate, so it's what you suggest is worth negotiating on, what's acceptable for a vehicle of this age and what is a definite 'No thanks, mate - you can keep it'.
The one last dangerous can of worms to open.
What's the best extended warranty to put on it - presuming you would do so?
Advice, based on experience, once again, would be gratefully received.
Many thanks,
Clark Wilson.
Houston.
2022 RAM 1500 Limited (Wife drives that)
2020 Jeep Trackhawk (That's mine
)2012 Ford Expedition Limited (More-than-moon-miler business workhorse)
1991 Saab 9000 CD Carlsson 2.3T AR. (That's my occasional tool-around, show-car and second wife.)
Clark,
Welcome to the Forum! You'll find lots of knowledgeable and helpful members here. I don't recommend any "extended warranties", because they're not worth the paper they're printed on.
There's a much better way to plan for unexpected repairs. Don't be fooled by slick TV commercials or magazine ads. They're really not warranties.
For details, read my POST #4, HERE.
Stuart
Welcome to the Forum! You'll find lots of knowledgeable and helpful members here. I don't recommend any "extended warranties", because they're not worth the paper they're printed on.
There's a much better way to plan for unexpected repairs. Don't be fooled by slick TV commercials or magazine ads. They're really not warranties.
For details, read my POST #4, HERE.
Stuart
Check to see if there are any DTCs stored in the system. Check the suspension bushes and the control arm joints for broken boots and cracked or failing bushes. Check the engine mounts for fluid leaks. And most importantly in my opinion, check to see fit there area any combustion gasses present in the cooling system indicating the engine has been overheated. The AJ133 becomes very cross if overheated resulting in failed head gasket(s).
If the water outlet under the supercharger snout is still plastic, plan on changing it to the aluminium version as well as the heater manifold at the back of the engine between the cylinder heads. Whilst the supercharger is removed, change the oil and see if the snout coupling is broken or worn.
Make sure the workshop performing the gearbox service knows the procedure and uses quality parts with the correct fluid.
If the water outlet under the supercharger snout is still plastic, plan on changing it to the aluminium version as well as the heater manifold at the back of the engine between the cylinder heads. Whilst the supercharger is removed, change the oil and see if the snout coupling is broken or worn.
Make sure the workshop performing the gearbox service knows the procedure and uses quality parts with the correct fluid.
You didn't do that one yourself?
Welcome to the forums. XKs are not my specialty; however, of general interest to me is the fact that you said you're quite handy and not shy about working on cars yet? You're going to pay nearly $3100 for someone else to change the Y'a and transmission fluid? Am I understanding that correctly? If you have money to burn, go for it, but I always advise against a car like the XKR unless someone fits in one of two camps they can do nearly every bit of work on their own or have lots of money to spend pays someone else to do it. I've learned over the years. There's not really much of a middle ground id ont think, or those costs can get away real quick. I own 4 Jaguars now and The only thing I've ever had anyone else do on them is put tires on the wheels.
Oh and one last thing, I also agree there are no good extended warranties, period. They aren't worth a thing.
Good luck
Mike
Oh and one last thing, I also agree there are no good extended warranties, period. They aren't worth a thing.
Good luck
Mike
Welcome to the forums. XKs are not my specialty; however, of general interest to me is the fact that you said you're quite handy and not shy about working on cars yet? You're going to pay nearly $3100 for someone else to change the Y'a and transmission fluid? Am I understanding that correctly? If you have money to burn, go for it, but I always advise against a car like the XKR unless someone fits in one of two camps they can do nearly every bit of work on their own or have lots of money to spend pays someone else to do it. I've learned over the years. There's not really much of a middle ground id ont think, or those costs can get away real quick. I own 4 Jaguars now and The only thing I've ever had anyone else do on them is put tires on the wheels.
Oh and one last thing, I also agree there are no good extended warranties, period. They aren't worth a thing.
Good luck
Mike
Oh and one last thing, I also agree there are no good extended warranties, period. They aren't worth a thing.
Good luck
Mike
Me: Hoses, plugs/coils, oil, brake pads, electronic gremlins, that sort of thing.
Someone else: Major service like SC, suspension, rotors, pumps and anything that requires serious mechanic tools.
Luckily the one I found and am picking up in a couple weeks had SC, Trans, injectors/plugs/coils, cooling system, rotors, timing belt (checked), suspension all done in the last 2 years. So outside of things like A/C and small gremlins, I should be good.
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Thanks to everyone getting back to me.
1) I asked for the work quotes as a bargaining tool... best to have some formal numbers to hand to be able to negotiate - right?
But I'm with Circumnavigator - I will work on most things except where specialist tools or a hoist is required and I'm not lying in a non-A/C garage during the Houston summer months having my nuts gently roasted at the ambient temperature...
2) Back in the UK I've had extended Warranties/extended service contracts, and they have always been fine, however, here in the USA I have come to realise that insurance industry is corrupted on both the provider and consumer side highlighted by:
a) The insane premium level
b) The shameful maximum coverage
c) The need for uninsured driver coverage - high time the USA put death-traps off the road and impounded and/or crushed uninsured vehicles. Might bring down the premium levels.
But, Stuart S, thanks for your comments, it's why I posed the question. You have brought this into sharp focus. My indecision required a push either way and I don't have the interest in going back to square one here to figure out whether the USA system is to be trusted. It would appear not. I am generally ok to pay most bills unless they run into 5 figures...
Meantime, I now see a competitor to the one I was originally checking out.
Silver, 2010, with 8,000 fewer miles and a Dealer Service history as long as your arm. Northern car, but clearly a summer-only driver and several hundred buck lower negotiation-start point.
As Arnie once said - "I'll be back" - either laughing or crying, but certainly one or the other. The dealer supplying the white one is unresponsive, though I have called twice. Means I am doing the running. Red flag right there. This is clearly not the 'droid I am looking for, so I'm moving along. They clearly need it more than I do.
Thanks NBCat - points taken onboard, added to the 50-point list I have already drawn up. I had intended taking the trusty FOXWELL ECU interrogator with me and hooking up 'Avatar-style' to see what the motor DTC's will say to me.
If the servicing is as good as CARFAX says, there should be none - fingers crossed...
Best regards to all.
1) I asked for the work quotes as a bargaining tool... best to have some formal numbers to hand to be able to negotiate - right?
But I'm with Circumnavigator - I will work on most things except where specialist tools or a hoist is required and I'm not lying in a non-A/C garage during the Houston summer months having my nuts gently roasted at the ambient temperature...2) Back in the UK I've had extended Warranties/extended service contracts, and they have always been fine, however, here in the USA I have come to realise that insurance industry is corrupted on both the provider and consumer side highlighted by:
a) The insane premium level
b) The shameful maximum coverage
c) The need for uninsured driver coverage - high time the USA put death-traps off the road and impounded and/or crushed uninsured vehicles. Might bring down the premium levels.
But, Stuart S, thanks for your comments, it's why I posed the question. You have brought this into sharp focus. My indecision required a push either way and I don't have the interest in going back to square one here to figure out whether the USA system is to be trusted. It would appear not. I am generally ok to pay most bills unless they run into 5 figures...
Meantime, I now see a competitor to the one I was originally checking out.
Silver, 2010, with 8,000 fewer miles and a Dealer Service history as long as your arm. Northern car, but clearly a summer-only driver and several hundred buck lower negotiation-start point.
As Arnie once said - "I'll be back" - either laughing or crying, but certainly one or the other. The dealer supplying the white one is unresponsive, though I have called twice. Means I am doing the running. Red flag right there. This is clearly not the 'droid I am looking for, so I'm moving along. They clearly need it more than I do.
Thanks NBCat - points taken onboard, added to the 50-point list I have already drawn up. I had intended taking the trusty FOXWELL ECU interrogator with me and hooking up 'Avatar-style' to see what the motor DTC's will say to me.
If the servicing is as good as CARFAX says, there should be none - fingers crossed...
Best regards to all.
Last edited by Nuggetybear4pms; Jul 25, 2025 at 09:31 AM.
Never, ever, rely on CarFax to buy a car, as they report only what is reported to them. Many accidents are never reported, and neither is self-service. CarFax is useful in deciding to not buy a car.
Read the CarFax Terms of Use:
https://www.carfax.com/company/terms-of-use
Not only can't you rely on CarFax for anything, by using a CarFax report you agree to indemnity them for their errors and omissions!
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...issues-278930/
Read the CarFax Terms of Use:
https://www.carfax.com/company/terms-of-use
Not only can't you rely on CarFax for anything, by using a CarFax report you agree to indemnity them for their errors and omissions!
- "Indemnification. You agree to defend, indemnify, and hold harmless CARFAX Parties from and against any and all claims, actions, demands, damages, costs, liabilities, losses, and expenses (including reasonable attorneys’ fees) arising out of (i) your use of any Service or any content therein, (ii) any distribution, publication, refusal to publish, deletion, editing or other use of any Submission you provide, (iii) your violation of these Terms of Use, (iv) your violation or infringement of any third party’s rights, or (v) any actual, prospective or terminated sale or other transaction between you and a third party."
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...issues-278930/
It's called age. Valley hoses is a project. Fortunately was able to do the duckbill DIY. When you hire someone to work on your car, do your homework. Know the problem and good ways to repair it. Listen to suggestions. Def worth it to take the time to find someone that personally likes vintage British and knows the cars.
It's called age. Valley hoses is a project. Fortunately was able to do the duckbill DIY. When you hire someone to work on your car, do your homework. Know the problem and good ways to repair it. Listen to suggestions. Def worth it to take the time to find someone that personally likes vintage British and knows the cars.
Especially enjoyed the lubed up Edward Scissorhands approach.
Chopping that off will be one of my first tasks.
Found a local Indy shop that has done only JLR since 2010.
He will be my new bestie.
Depends on the quality of CF. Basic is # of owners, locations, maybe some service. It's a place to start. Sometimes it's good enough info that it's clear the car was well maintained. For my x150 (one owner, expensive Bay area zip code) CF was great and one big reason I bought the car. There were 27 entries. All the work done by mileage (or time). Everything done dealer or very good Indy (I know the shop). Also lucked out. Dealer priced it as an XK (not R). Paid 20 for a perfect low mileage 25k R. Have enjoyed for 2 years. Rare color. Great CF, stellar PPI and smooth test drive made it a very easy decision to buy the car.
On the other hand, CF for my X100 was def part of the problem. I did get # of owners and locations. Big gaps in service (didn't get done, not reported?). Sometimes quickie oil. No accident stated but I think the car was in one. Perfect paint (no damage or fade) maybe a clue. Did help in the car show I entered. CF stated car had passed a Fl MBZ safety check but lots of front end vibration when I drove it. Lots of work needed. I'd been looking for months for rare color (Seafrost) so took a big chance. In this case, marginal CF DEF a problem. Also no PPI (seller refused, too far) and bad test drive meant a car that's been a project for 4 years. I will NEVER rely on a marginal CF as part of the basis to make a car decision. Also won't use only color to justify the purchase.
On the other hand, CF for my X100 was def part of the problem. I did get # of owners and locations. Big gaps in service (didn't get done, not reported?). Sometimes quickie oil. No accident stated but I think the car was in one. Perfect paint (no damage or fade) maybe a clue. Did help in the car show I entered. CF stated car had passed a Fl MBZ safety check but lots of front end vibration when I drove it. Lots of work needed. I'd been looking for months for rare color (Seafrost) so took a big chance. In this case, marginal CF DEF a problem. Also no PPI (seller refused, too far) and bad test drive meant a car that's been a project for 4 years. I will NEVER rely on a marginal CF as part of the basis to make a car decision. Also won't use only color to justify the purchase.
Good you're doing your homework. I couldn't see paying $$$ to fix a simple problem. Bought a borescope which has been handy. With duckbill, helps if you have long arms and small hands. LOL in one duckbill repair picture, guy had his daughter (or girlfriend) doing the work, maybe for that reason. Based on the outfit, doubt it was his mechanic. I got lucky. Just manipulated to get it open. Run the AC on a regular basis. So far, no problems. Your shop sounds like a perfect fit. Picture of my mechanic's shop has vintage British as well as a variety of foreign exotics. There's even a E type. Maybe Jeremy Clarkson sitting it. AI getting ever better
Once you have your convertible buy Steves (WhiteXKR) kit for your convertible top. Some one here said it is the feature that Jaguar forgot. I love mine
https://www.thejagwrangler.com/xkxkr...p-reviews.html
https://www.thejagwrangler.com/xkxkr...p-reviews.html
Once you have your convertible buy Steves (WhiteXKR) kit for your convertible top. Some one here said it is the feature that Jaguar forgot. I love mine
https://www.thejagwrangler.com/xkxkr...p-reviews.html
https://www.thejagwrangler.com/xkxkr...p-reviews.html
Does anyone really have one of these lying around?
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Just did a handful of slice and dice searches. See one for the xk8 but surprised nobody did an installation video for the x150.
@WhiteXKR Steve, do you know of any kind folks that did a video of the install?
(I realize it was 10 years ago when it came out)
@WhiteXKR Steve, do you know of any kind folks that did a video of the install?
(I realize it was 10 years ago when it came out)
Last edited by Circumnavigator; Jul 25, 2025 at 05:53 PM.
If you don’t, you better get one. There’s lots of 10mm nuts and bolts on this car, including the battery cable clamps.
If you’re going to do any work on the car, get a full metric set. You’ll find 8, 9, 10, and a few larger sizes.
If you’re going to do any work on the car, get a full metric set. You’ll find 8, 9, 10, and a few larger sizes.
Once you have your convertible buy Steves (WhiteXKR) kit for your convertible top. Some one here said it is the feature that Jaguar forgot. I love mine
https://www.thejagwrangler.com/xkxkr...p-reviews.html
https://www.thejagwrangler.com/xkxkr...p-reviews.html
If I can install it, you can, too - provided you can follow Steve's step-by-step illustrated instructions. They're the best. Be sure to get the kit with the optional rear window controller. There are lots of happy customers here.
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