XK / XKR ( X150 ) 2006 - 2014

A/C not working

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Old Jul 30, 2018 | 02:27 PM
  #1  
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Red face A/C not working

The A/C has suddenly stopped working on my 2009 X150. All A/C controls on the Control panel work as normal but there is no air coming from the A/C vents.
Tried resetting system by disconnecting neutral from battery in case control module had hung up but made no difference.
Checked fuse F34 in rear seat fuse box (40A Blower Motor) fuse OK.
Checked fuse F6 in passenger footwell (A/C control) fuse OK
Front seat cooling is working OK and noticed a slight blip in revs when A/C is switched off and back on as if compressor is kicking in.
A/C system had new condenser fitted by Jag dealer just less than 2 years ago as A/C wasn't cooling, A/C was working fine but water coming in through passenger footwell under acceleration returned to dealer who checked system and said couldn't find problem but water occasionally came in as if drain hose wasn't connected properly or blocked.
Just read some problems with water ingress due to blocked drain can knacker A/C module due to shorting, so wondering if this is the problem.
Also noticed a slight whistling sound coming from vents when A/C fan on low during the past few months so now thinking if the A/C fan was on it's way out.
Just wondering if any other X150 owners have had any similar problems with A/C fan not blowing but controls still working on control panel and what was the eventual cure
Any feedback would be appreciated
 
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Old Jul 30, 2018 | 02:54 PM
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There is a module or some such thing that, if failed, would cause this problem.
I can't remember what it's called or where it is, so I can't help much other than say it's a known and easily fixed problem.

Maybe search the forums?
 
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Old Jul 30, 2018 | 03:35 PM
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No air flowing or no A/C?
 
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Old Jul 30, 2018 | 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Ranchero50
No air flowing or no A/C?
No air flowing, managed to get access to blower motor and checked voltage to motor on the 2 pin socket which connects to motor, shows 10V when ignition on so will remove motor tomorrow to see if it is jammed, also just read that it could be the motor resistor module that can go faulty, will post up results tomorrow
 
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Old Jul 30, 2018 | 04:29 PM
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Probably needs a new blower fan resistor located inside the dash. The whistling could also be due to a TSB for the cooling line spacer.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2018 | 05:09 PM
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Yeah, resister block is like $8-12 off eBay.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2018 | 10:30 AM
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If the condensate water is not flowing out of the A/C drain it will back up and short out the resistor and cause the blower motor to freeze up. The root cause is the duck bill drain being stuck closed. The most common fix is to cut off the end of the duck bill to allow the water to get out and by cutting off the end, the problem will not recur. Unfortunately on our cars (XKR) to get to the duck bill you have to lower the back of the transmission so you can reach the duck bill to cut it off. JLR will be happy to do it for you by pulling out the dash board and going in from the top for $1200 to $1300.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2018 | 10:44 AM
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Managed to get the blower motor out and the fan was hard to turn, sprayed some lubricant and it now turns easily.
Whilst it was out applied 12V to fan motor and it runs fine, so fan motor OK.
Temporarily connected up fan and when ignition switched on fan gives a little kick then stops, adjusting A/C control on control panel has no effect.
When I checked voltage going to motor on the motor connections it is a steady 10V, udjusting the fan control speed knob makes no difference to the voltage, I would have thought this should vary depending on fan speed selected, looks like it could be the resistor block.
Have read that the fuseable link can blow, but if this has blown I'm assuming I would get no voltage at motor connections, so thinking it is more likely to be the thyristor that's gone in the resistor control block.
Is there any checks that you can do to confirm if the resistor block is faulty, before I buy a replacement or where the cheapest source is for buying them.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2018 | 11:07 AM
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The old school resister block was changed to a big transistor which may need the fans load to work correctly. With the fan hooked up, back pin the connections and see if the voltage is increasing with the fan speed. If not, replace the block. I'm going with fan getting tight caused the amp load to increase until it took the transistor out. I'd look into replacing them both and at least the resister block first.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2018 | 11:07 AM
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Ranchero50 mentioned eBay also auto part stores have them or Rock Auto. It is common for this part to fail.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2018 | 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Ranchero50
The old school resister block was changed to a big transistor which may need the fans load to work correctly. With the fan hooked up, back pin the connections and see if the voltage is increasing with the fan speed. If not, replace the block. I'm going with fan getting tight caused the amp load to increase until it took the transistor out. I'd look into replacing them both and at least the resister block first.
I have roughly the same symptoms that you had after freeing the fan, when the ignition is switched on the fan spins for a very short time then stops, what was the eventual cure for your problem
 
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Old Aug 1, 2018 | 12:57 PM
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Resister
 
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Old Aug 2, 2018 | 05:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Ranchero50
Resister
Resistor block removed and it has P/No 077800-0901 made by Denso, sourced one on e-bay for £19.99 free postage, It's for a Land Rover but correct P/No. so Hers's hoping it cures the problem
 
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Old Aug 3, 2018 | 07:28 AM
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Smile Yahoo A/C fixed

Resistor block arrived today, fitted and blowers now working as normal.
Although it was listed as DISCOVERY 3/4 RANGE ROVER SPORT HEATER BLOWER FAN SPEED RESISTER 077800-0901 this was the same P/No. removed from my 2009 XKR and much cheaper than those listed for the Jag XKR.
Thanks to forum members I've fixed the A/C for less than £20, wouldn't like to think how much the Jag main dealer would have charged for a 30 min job.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2018 | 09:51 AM
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Hey, their cappuccino machine doesn't fill itself.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2018 | 11:22 AM
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Andy, you need to fix the duck bill before it drowns the new parts and you have to start over.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2018 | 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by JackJohn
Andy, you need to fix the duck bill before it drowns the new parts and you have to start over.
This may sound stupid but has anyone tried to drill a hole in an accessible part of the drain hose and araldite a threaded port in to hose so you could either stick a high pressure air line or pressure water jet down the hose every so often to keep the duck bill open or is this not feasible
 
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Old Aug 3, 2018 | 03:06 PM
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I don't think there are any accessible parts of the hose. On the 4.2 xk you can sort of reach it but not on the blower cars. I kind of sort of know where it is because I got dripped on while under the car. Mid way back beside the trans above the shielding. I could probably get to it with a coat hanger but winning the lottery is more likely. Luckily mine pours out water when the passenger side is higher than the drivers.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2018 | 03:49 PM
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Hi Andy, at the top of this page, do a search for "Duck Bill Fix", about two thirds of the way down the first page there is a DIY fix by "Denver DDS" also near the bottom of the first page is a DIY fix by "Hawaii"

I Tried to paste the thread titles here but couldn't make it work.
 
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