I am in the UK 2007 Jaguar XK. The alternator became noisy and so I have changed it for a new unit form a UK Jag specialist . Its a pattern part appears of good quality .
Now on start up I have a battery not charging message on the dash and after about 10 seconds the radiator cooling fan comes on full blast and stays on until shut down, actually runs 15 seconds after shut down.
The car has been without fault until now .

I have two batteries to choose from a regular and an AGM. At rest they are both above 13 volts. The batteries are not faulty I do not have a low or damaged or discharged battery . When the engine is running I am seeing about 14.2/14.5 volts so I think it is actually charging .
So my two issues are the not charging warning on the dash and the cooling fan coming on .

Appreciate of any thoughts . Thanks

 

when i first got my car i suddenly had an issue with it not starting and found the relativley new battery had been killed by the alternator which had also gone really bad.

I took it to jag main dealer as its a ball ache getting the alternator out on a right hand side I did try!!, had a new one fitted and a new agm battery and never had an issue after that. Even though the battery wasn't old and was a excellent make it would no longer take any charge and the marker showed it was of no use anymore.

 

I don't know about UK market X150 models but, to the best of my knowledge, North American market models never came from the factory with an AGM battery. Sure, many Forum members have made the switch from flooded (wet cell) to AGM, but the alternator's charging profile is for standard wet cell, not AGM, and an AGM battery might never get fully charged ... unless you use a CTEK or similar battery maintainer that includes an AGM setting.

 

And to add to Stuart’s accurate point

It is not ordinary for a lead-acid battery at rest to read 13.0v.. Try taking a reading following a wait time of 24 hours following any charging event.

Don’t think of the generator as a “generator”. Think of it as a “maintainer”.

Moreover, are you certain that the generator you installed is completely compatible with the car. Without codes, It sounds as if either the generator is not installed correctly or that it is not reporting its health to the ecm.

" The generator is located at the front Right-Hand (RH) side of the engine, on the cylinder block. The generator has an output of 85/130 Amps and is manufactured by Denso. A six-ribbed polyvee belt drives the generator pulley, which in turn is driven from the engine crankshaft pulley. The generator comprises a stator, a rotor, a rectifier pack and a regulator.The rectifier converts the ac current produced in the stator coils into dc (rectified) current required by the vehicle electrical system. The rectifier comprises 12 semi-conductor diodes mounted on a heatsink to dissipate heat. An equal number of the diodes are on the negative and positive side. An additional diode in the regulator controls feedback through the battery voltage signal line. The rectifier also prevents current flow from the battery to the generator when the output voltage is less than the battery voltage.

Initially, the ignition supply provides an excitation current to the rotor at low generator speeds via brushes, which contact slip rings at the end of the rotor shaft. As the generator speed increases the generator becomes self-exciting.

The charge warning lamp function is transmitted to the engine management system and then on to the high speed Controller Area Network (CAN) bus to the instrument cluster. "

 

Thank you for the comments so far today. I am confident I have ruled out the battery. I have had three known batteries on the car today. Same symptoms on all. In terms of the installation,the wirring is a plug and one wire. I can't see it's incorrect. Removal on a UK car is a big job albeit I expect it may have to come out again. In terms of codes there are many, more than I have seen on the car before. It's a very unhappy car. I have removed and checked every fuse on the car today too. I have also cross checked the alternator compatibility.

 

Wouldn't be the first time ****stuff, despite any claim, just won't do.
You get what you pay for...

 

This problem has come up many times over the years. It was recommended by another experienced member to keep the original alternator and have it rebuilt locally. Then no compatibility problems.

Post back if you get it fixed.
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Do you have links to the previous posts you reference. I searched before I posted ,to no avail. Any additional information appreciated.

 

+1 on having the alternator overhauled by a competent automotive electrical specialist to avoid any compatibility issues with generic ones purchased from a parts house.

 

Had mine replaced with a rebuilt original jaguar Alternator this year.

$350 ..no issues..

 

Yes here is the link. Bigg Will did a number of VERY detailed posts before he moved on from Jaguar.
Read this one with pictures.
He had an XFR so not the exact same car but the 5.0L is the same across the product line. But I see your in the UK so the shop he mentions will be of no use to you.
Alternator and a Few Other Repairs
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18 months ago, replaced my alternator with a Bosch factory re-manufacture AL9433X, sourced from FCP Euro (lifetime guarantee from FCP). Lifetime guarantee means (to me) that they're not likely to sell crap that comes back to them.
Runs fine on AGM battery, charges steadily and well per my graphical voltage monitoring. No problems since install.
To problems with replacement: The trick with the alternator replacement on the 4.2 is that the top alternator mount looks like a bolt. Much time wasted looking for the damn bolt connection. It isn't -- it's a long hangar that allows the alternator to slide off towards the back. Lever the bottom up towards the fender, then slide backwards. Easy.

 

If my battery at rest is 13 volts and there is a notice of not charging,I could rationalize this by saying my battery is heading for an overcharge so the alternator has stopped sending an important voltage to the battery.
Suggest doing a hard reset for the other bug a booh.

 

I have had three batteries on the car in the past few days ,all known good batteries. Today I had 12.62, 12.59 and the AGM at 12.86. I also put a known low battery on it at the weekend at 11v, as part of my testing. I have done multiple hard resets ,both methods,and many clear codes on my Icarsoft.
So my two issues are the not charging warning on the dash(the battery is charging) and the cooling fan coming on .
It's fabulous weather in the UK right now it's a convertible car and I am a bit frustrated 😔

 

You don't know what the specialist sold you. Have you gone back with your complaint, asking if you have a rebuilt Denso or not. Their replacement isn't satisfactory. I have seen some totally new alternators from China without core in exchange!

 

The replacement alternator will have to come out again and will go back to the supplier. I am taking the old unit a Denso to be rebuilt at the end of this week. I am reliant on my son removing and fitting them ,it's a huge job on a right hand drive car . Drop steering rack , remove engine mount and raise engine etc. I tested the output of the replacement alternator today and got a stable voltage over the two mins or so I tested it .
I can't fathom what's triggering the radiator fan .

 

Thanks for the added information as I did not realize the RHD versions made this a much more difficult repair.
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See JF XF posts: Alternator replacement tip! | Jaguar Forum
for tip on improving engine position and rumored incompatible alternators.

 

I had the alternator done a while ago and done pulleys and belts while at it for the supercharger and the main crankshaft. It's a pig of a job - looking at a days work and around £600 in labour as in my case from an independent specialist.
Bonnet, coolant pipes and all the radiator shroud etc had to go and the engine under trays

I have no issues with the alternator I used, I was very picky in which one I used

 

What alternator did you use ?