Hi group. I am changing the front shocks on my 2007 XK coupe (103,000 miles) . I am hearing a slight creak when I brake and turn the wheel to make a left turn, so. I was wondering if I should be changing any of the rubber bushings since my mechanic will already be in there. The creak has been there for a while, but, since I will be going to the expense already of the front shock job I might as well change all the rubber in and around that area. Has anyone solved the infamous creak upon turning? What bushings should I replace? I want to order them right away. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!

 

Would change any and all bushings if you plan to keep the car. I would stick OEM as well.

 

I don't have as many miles on my 07, but was having a creak on the front left on low/no speed turns. I discovered that the tie rod end was not fully tight, and would slip, causing the creak. There's no cotter pin / castle nut on these bolts, so they can loosen over time.

 

Thanks for the advice. How did you tighten it? Any specific torque setting?

 

I'm sure there are torque values for it, but I didn't have them, and even if I did, I couldn't get in there with a torque wrench (at least any that I own).

The end of the bolt has a hollow indentation to insert a hex driver. My hex drivers (that fit a socket wrench) are too tall and I couldn't get one in there due to the short distance to other suspension objects. But I did have a set of 'star' drivers, which are just a bit shorter, and found one that was of the appropriate diameter and was able to get it into the hole at the end of the bolt. I then clamped a Vise-grip on the 'star' driver (no clearance to get a socket wrench on it), and then used a regular wrench on the nut itself.

Turned the wrench to tighten the bolt, which turned the star driver/vise-grip combo, until the vise-grip braced itself against some other part of the wheel assembly, and then tightened the nut as far as I was able. No more creaks!

 

I'm with mosesbotbol,

If you're doing the front shocks, you should get the rears done also, it's not a big job and you will have a nice ride all round.

 

Assuming it's the outer tie rod, torque is as follows:
Tie rod end ball joint to wheel knuckle nut is 55 ft lbs.

Tie rod locking nut is 40 ft lbs.

You should use new nuts if you're replacing the outer tie rods and you will need to have the alignment checked. Of course if your just tightening a loose nut, probably no issue with alignment but my tire shop checks it @ no charge.

Inner tie rod torque is 60 ft lbs. and requires a special tool that attaches to a 1/2" extension bar/ ratchet. Auto stores usually rent them out for free, but as you have a mechanic, he should know all of these specs.

@ 103,000 miles I would replace them along with the boots and all the front end bushings. They are cheap (relative term). You should check the rear bushes and links as well.

I would also replace the anti sway bar bushes and links along with the entire upper control arms.
Uppers are replaced as a whole unit as the ball joint is not sold separately.

Lower control arms, replace the big bush as it bears the weight (the lower arm is often referred to as the banana shaped arm). The smaller bushing on the lower control arm is more durable. The big bushing is available in both OEM and aftermarket. in fact all the bushings are.

Tell your mechanic that the parts are interchangeable with the S-Type and Ford Thunderbird and Lincoln LS of the same years. Recommend you search for the parts by Thunderbird or Lincoln LS and you will find them for less money. Of course you can buy them all from Jaguar as well. I successfully replaced all of these on my 05 Super V8 using all Lincoln part numbers. I had zero change in performance afterward. I didn't keep the car long enough to verify life span however. All of these parts are also available by aftermarket suppliers too. That is of course, your choice.

I would avoid poly bushes like the plague. They last forever but are unforgiving and can be noisy (my opinion based on my experience. Your experience may vary)

Best of luck

 

Hi Sean,

I have a knocking sound that sounds not unlike a loose headlight or something(!), coming from the front right (passenger) side, when rolling over rough, bumpy road.
The car is a 2008 XKR with 81,000 m
I have had the car up on a lift and checked all the bushings with a crowbar. I cannot find anything loose. I have tried to move both wheels side/side and up/down but all seems tight. I have lowered the cor sharply onto the floor while inspecting the wheels for any looseness or knocking but found everything sound. The only joint that appeared to be leaking was the front right upper control arm ball joint, but it was still tight.
I have removed the front wheel well linings, under engine shield and under transmission shield to inspect for anything loose but all was tight... banging everything in sight with a towel wrapped rubber mallet, everything seems solid as a rock.

I am a bit lost and very frustrated !

I am thinking of replacing the following:

Right Upper wishbone control arm
Both front stabilizer bar bushes, and probably the links too
Perhaps the Lower control arm Large bushings

My question is, while I have the Motorcraft part numbers for equivalent upper wishbone control arms, I could use the Ford numbers for some of the other components of this suspension structure. Do you have any more of those part numbers please?

Here is what I have so far:

CONTROL ARMS:
FRONT
MotorCraft MCSOE38 = Jag 6W4Z3084AA
MotorCraft MCSOE39 = Jag 6W4Z3085AA

REAR
Jag p/n 6W4Z5500AB
Jg p/n 6W4Z5500AA

Thank you for any help!

Phil

 

Hi Phil. No I don't but this sight works pretty well for interchange
numbers so if you have the Jag#, this should give you ford and off brands. Just type in the part in the search bar and you'll see a short list. Then it says see all interchange numbers for free. Click that and Bob's your uncle

3063301-3063301 Track Control Arm

 

I know this is a old thread but did you find noise?