XK / XKR ( X150 ) 2006 - 2014

"Conv top not latched" - issues

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Old May 15, 2016 | 11:01 PM
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Default "Conv top not latched" - issues

Any suggestions/help would be greatly appreciated.
2007 xk conv w/ 40K miles been perfect never any issues.

I have read the several posts previously hoping a "Search" could help me here but to no avail

What happened:
Thurs got in tried to open the top after letting the car sit for a couple weeks but did use a maintainer for a couple of those days. Battery is 11 mo's old. Started the engine tried opening the top it unlatched went @3" open then stopped and gave me the "top not latched" warning. After that it would not open or close any further with the top button just the red warning on dash. After fidgiting with it I tried to disconnect the battery and reconnect it but it didn't help. That night I removed the battery and used my maintainer to make sure it was fully charged. Next morning still no luck. I tried the "top reset" procedure several times with no avail. I am able to put it ALMOST all the way down with the exception of the tarneau cover sitting up maybe an inch up or bring it all the way up to within an inch or so of closing then I can use the manual crank to bring it closed BUT another odd thing is happening:
The drivers window only goes down 1/2 way (tried the window reset several times no luck) and the rear windows have stayed down - maybe makes sense since it thinks the top is not up properly??? This morning went to O'Rielly's they checked out the battery said it was fine.

So to recap:
Dash says Top not latched
Top will not go completely down
Top will only close all the way IF I cranked it with the allen key
Drivers window won't go down more than 1/2 way
Rear windows are down won't come up
I was able to get the top to go from down position to mostly up once or twice
When I've tried to activate the top the little black motor on top of the pump gets hot
Doing either the window reset did nothing for the window nor did the top reset procedure in the manual do anything for the top yet
Battery has been topped off a couple times, is pretty new, and was checked said to be fine... any good suggestions before I hit a Jag indi and have them run the Jag software for possible top sensor issues or sensor resets?

Thank you guys...
 
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Old May 16, 2016 | 08:19 AM
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You noted the pump motor gets hot so I assume you checked the fluid level and it is full still (ruling out hydraulic fluid leak)? General shape of top is normal (IE no-one put something heavy on it or somehow bent something while it was sitting)?
 
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Old May 16, 2016 | 08:30 AM
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Try doing the following in this order:

-Reconnect the battery.

-Manually lower the top as far as you can (It can take up to 30 minutes for the system to depressurize if the pump was recently run). Be sure to return the pump to automatic mode when done.

-Close both doors and reset both windows with the engine running. Do the window reset 3 times for good measure.

-Make sure the trunk divider is properly deployed and the trunk is shut.

-Attempt to raise the top again. Hold the button for 60 seconds additional if the top stalls. It should eventually complete the cycle.

-Close both doors and reset the windows again with the engine running and the top up.

If that does not work, then have the system checked out.
 

Last edited by WhiteXKR; May 16, 2016 at 08:33 AM.
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Old May 16, 2016 | 09:27 AM
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There was nothing on the top at any point, not when it initially stopped working properly nor in subsequent attempts. Yes the pump fluid is exactly where it should be

I did remove the battery to charge top off outside the car to ensure it would be at the highest voltage and tried several times to reset doors and top with no avail but will try again. The tiny black motor, one of three, on the rear towards the inside, gets hot when I attempt to use the top though it did raise the tonneau then the top once in my many attempts. I'll cycle it up and down several times manually with the battery disconnected then try the door windows first and lastly... afraid this will require a visit to an indi with the right software to check out the sensors
 
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Old May 16, 2016 | 09:44 AM
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The window reset is very important for the top, not just the windows...make sure you are doing it correctly. The top will often stall if the windows are not reset first. If you continue to hold the roof button after the top stalls, it should complete the cycle within 60 seconds regardless.
 
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Old May 16, 2016 | 11:17 AM
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Hmm. My top went wonky at about 40k as well. Got to drive with with the 1/4 windows stuck down for a few days.

I'd wager its a bad sensor. In my case it was a worn/damaged wire in the roof which caused a sensor to not function.
 
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Old May 16, 2016 | 11:20 AM
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Thanks guys will cycle the windows at lunch a report back, got a feeling that being the warning says "not latched" that the drivers window won't want to go back down but we shall see soon enough. Being the rear quarter windows are down too makes me believe that it's a sensor of some sort
 
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Old May 16, 2016 | 02:15 PM
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Same problem - I put the top down manually, verified the luggage separator was correctly in place with the metal clip intact, started the car tried to operate the windows - passenger window works perfectly drivers still won't go down more than half way nor will rear windows come up.

Looks like I'll be bringing it to Coventry Jaguar, an Indi with high reviews, Weds morning. They got all the computers to run the sensor codes and such hoping this will be minimal pain.
 
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Old May 16, 2016 | 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Leeper
Same problem - I put the top down manually, verified the luggage separator was correctly in place with the metal clip intact, started the car tried to operate the windows - passenger window works perfectly drivers still won't go down more than half way nor will rear windows come up.

Looks like I'll be bringing it to Coventry Jaguar, an Indi with high reviews, Weds morning. They got all the computers to run the sensor codes and such hoping this will be minimal pain.
I would just sell it and move on. No need having massive frustration attacks over a convertible top. The costs to run around, take the car here or there just is not worth the aggravation. I know you speak of your excellent mechanical skills here on the forum, so if you can't resolve the fix yourself, there may be a massive problem.

Sounds and looks like you have done what you can to resolve the issue. Good effort, but has to be very frustrating, now the time and effort to take the car to a mechanic that might just take many days to repair and have a cost too unbearable to handle.

Dump it, consider the Mazda Miata for the price. Hard to beat and you will still have a convertible sports car ranked one the best for the price. Under full warranty also.

The best to you in trying to find a solution to the problem. Keep us posted so we may learn thru your experiences. I am glad it's not me having these problems.
..
 
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Old May 16, 2016 | 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by richzak
.....................
Dump it, consider the Mazda Miata for the price. Hard to beat and you will still have a convertible sports car ranked one the best for the price. Under full warranty also. ................
Me personally, I wouldn't be caught dead AND cremated in a Miata.
*shudder*
 
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Old May 16, 2016 | 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Cee Jay
Me personally, I wouldn't be caught dead AND cremated in a Miata.
*shudder*
That was very humorous. Thanks for the laugh of the day.
 
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Old May 18, 2016 | 04:55 PM
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Just back from the indi, somehow a bolt holding the drivers door track was tightened too much (saw and verified) causing the window to not go down which threw off the cycling process not allowing the top mechanism to open or close. Took them 3 hours to take apart the door, remedy that bolt, then clear codes and get it perfect again. No idea how that happened as no one drives my car nor has it been worked on.

Rich - I do love to do my own wrenching but don't have the software to run the DTC's (dealer warning codes)... the OBDII doesn't read those. Just did the oil change for the first time man that was easier than thought... 2 screws and two 10mm nuts to remove that's all. Only my M BM'er was easier with the oil filter being up high on the engine

All said it was $300, no parts needed, VERY happy with this indi shop who specializes in Jags only here in SD.
 
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Old May 18, 2016 | 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Leeper
Just back from the indi, somehow a bolt holding the drivers door track was tightened too much (saw and verified) causing the window to not go down which threw off the cycling process not allowing the top mechanism to open or close. Took them 3 hours to take apart the door, remedy that bolt, then clear codes and get it perfect again. No idea how that happened as no one drives my car nor has it been worked on.

Rich - I do love to do my own wrenching but don't have the software to run the DTC's (dealer warning codes)... the OBDII doesn't read those. Just did the oil change for the first time man that was easier than thought... 2 screws and two 10mm nuts to remove that's all. Only my M BM'er was easier with the oil filter being up high on the engine

All said it was $300, no parts needed, VERY happy with this indi shop who specializes in Jags only here in SD.
Great news for you, and low cost.
 
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Old May 26, 2016 | 04:15 PM
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WhiteXKR I forgot the thank you for your input. You were right in what you thought it was.. appreciate you chiming in. Though it took a shop with the code reader to ultimately remedy it you were on the right path
 
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Old Jun 3, 2016 | 11:33 AM
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I love convertibles but these threads remind me why I got a coupe....
 

Last edited by michaelodonnell123; Jun 3, 2016 at 11:37 AM.
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Old Jun 3, 2016 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by michaelodonnell123
I love convertibles but these threads remind me why I got a coupe....
I live in San Diego where it is immoral and should be illegal to own a hard top but would be totally understandable if I were in say Seattle. When my party comes into power that will be one of my first rulings
 
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Old Jun 6, 2016 | 09:50 PM
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I like the simplicity of my mustang's top. Once it's raised, I "hook 'n go" and "manually" role up my windows. No fussing and waiting for them to raise or get stuck, no fiddling with a cover thing-ga-ma-jig in the trunk. And certainly, no "JagWrangler" "auto-ma-bob" push button key fob gizmo, that took a couple hours to wire. (LOL) ...and yes it does have a tonneau too.
My most vigorous and oh so simple maintenance, is the occasional use of this....
 
Attached Thumbnails "Conv top not latched" - issues-mustangs-rer-window-zipper-lube..jpg   "Conv top not latched" - issues-tonneau.jpg  
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Old Jun 6, 2016 | 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by RedRider48
I like the simplicity of my mustang's top. Once it's raised, I "hook 'n go" and "manually" role up my windows. No fussing and waiting for them to raise or get stuck, no fiddling with a cover thing-ga-ma-jig in the trunk. And certainly, no "JagWrangler" "auto-ma-bob" push button key fob gizmo, that took a couple hours to wire. (LOL) ...and yes it does have a tonneau too.
My most vigorous and oh so simple maintenance, is the occasional use of this....
Ken:

Sometimes the old way of doing things proves to be the best. My 66' Mustang was the same way, power up, hook n go.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2016 | 07:33 AM
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Is that the only reason you need the lube for.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2016 | 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by jagtoes
Is that the only reason you need the lube for.
...
 
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