Dear Forum,
I had NGK Plugs & Coils installed on Thursday as there is 105,000 miles and from looking at the Service history I didn't see Any tune up info. Well Thursday when I brought it home it seemed fine runs great, drove it to the store a mile each way yesterday around 7:00p central and then today I went to take it out started it up and got a red triangle Coolant Low.. This is what I found when I pulled it out.. I always leave Cardboard under the engine just in case measures...

As you can see I checked the leak under the driver side after backing up.. The Leak has gotten larger so now I'm thinking it could be serious.. I had no coolant issues prior to the Plug & Coil replacement... I'm contacting the garage in the morning, it happens to be a FORad service center. They know my car.

 

Look at coolant tank for cracket outlet.

 

I watched a video concerning a coolant leak and I'm thinking because these clamps are from 2011 they may have lost some of there tension as In Life On Cars video as he has an XK as well with the similar reservoir and the pipe that runs to the aluminum pipe has two clamps. The clamp near the reservoir he replaced with 2 Screw tension hose clamps and that fixed his leak. Jaguar doesn't sell just that little hose from the reservoir to the Aluminum pipe part 10 on the manual which is the whole set up nearly 400.00.
in the morning I'm going to take a look at those clamps and hose as well as the Reservoir tank as from what I understand the seals give out as it's 2 pieces fitted together and it's in a turbulent environment under the hood. Many XK owners have replaced this reservoir twice to three times...

 

There are so many places where coolant could be leaking from that speculation is likely to be incorrect. Looking to see how far under the car the leak appears to be dropping from and the checking the whole engine bay / bellhousing from above and below is the best way to proceed.

Richard

 

I agree with RichardS. Coolant leaks are so common it’s best to check the whole system as it could be anywhere. No reason to throw parts at your car.

 

And actually, I’m on the original reservoir…

 

Well it looks as if it’s not the reservoir tank as it’s empty and I’m still getting leakage. I ordered antifreeze which I’ll mix 50/50 as It’s PEAK for Jaguars same as I used before.. I need to drive the car 12 miles to service it.. I’m hoping I can top it off and wondering how much has actually leaked?.. I believe that is the only way to put coolant into the system is through the reservoir?..
I think it will be ok to drive 12 miles?

 

A trick I used in my old Alpha Romeo was leave the pressure cap off. Leave some space in the fill tank to allow for coolant expansion. Ran the car like that for years.

 

If you refill the reservoir you will certainly be a able to drive for 12 miles unless the leak is of gigantic proportions such as a detached radiator hose.

Richard

 

Older systems with a pressurised header tank and and atmospheric remote reservoir could certainly be driven with the remote reservoir top removed and even, for a while, with the header tank cap removed.
Modern engines run at higher temperatures and use a fully pressurised system as the actual coolant temperature can be close to or above boiling point and it is only the raised pressure which prevents the coolant from boiling away. If you tried to run these systems without a pressure cap, the engine would destroy itself before many miles had passed.

Richard

 

The system was like the Jag - closed, the older systems had a pipe drain connected near the rad cap.

 

thank you Richard!!!

 

It looks as if it has been replaced, new outlet tubing with worm clamp. The tank is empty and there is still coolant leaking?... I'm thinking water pump, radiator seal, or one of the many plastic parts.... Why aluminum wasn't used as it's as light as plastic. I have a '95 Cannondale Killer V 900 Mountain Racer completely reconditioned to showroom spec, you can hold the frame with your pinky.. Aluminum Alloy 6061 Super Strong and feather light.
I understand most of these parts were for cost reduction, but in the end user case; being US- waking up to a swamp under your prize possession, it's heartbreaking...


I love this car... That gloss finish is from Chemical Guys CITRUS in a foam cannon connected to the HART portable Power Washer. I rinse using the fan nozzle.. Any PSI over 900 will damage sensors...

 

There are several variations. For example, the XK8 (X100) is a non-closed system with an atmospheric tank but the pipe is nowhere near the radiator. As I said, if you run a modern lean-burn, low emissions engine with a closed system without the header tank cap you will overheat the engine in very short order.

Please note that I'm not disagreeing with your assertion that you ran your old Alfa Romeo for years without a pressure cap. I'm just advising forum members not to try this with their X150. 👍

Richard

 

Matusco you may want to remove the engine cover and examine the small hose from the tank running along the intake manifold valley, towards the front of the engine. Midway along there is a straight connector that deteriorates and leaks on the non R 4.2L model. But the same procedure can be used on your model. Follow the hoses from the tank.

 

I had a persistent coolant leak. on my 4.2l. I could smell it every time I drove it and was constantly topping up.
It turned out to be one of the two coolant hoses attached to the EGR valve. The hose had deteriorated under the clamp. It was easy to tell when I pulled the hose off. There was crystallization around the spigot. No sign at all otherwise. Since the EGR valve gets pretty hot, it was boiling off hidden right there without dripping out.
I just cut the hose back and reconnected, no loss ever since.

 

The second hose from the EGR valve runs down and back and underneath the intake manifold and is also a weak point with these engines although the crack in the hose will not be visible until the manifold is removed. The coolant from this split will either run down over the top of the bellhousing or run into the bellhousing and the flex plate and torque converter will be splashing around in coolant. It will be 100% evident if you remove the rubber bung in the bottom of the bellhousing and let the coolant out.

Richard

 

If available, borrow a pressure tester from an auto parts store. Fill the system, leaving the overflow tank half full and pressurize the system to + .7-1.0 atmosphere (10-14 psi). Don't over pressurize it. Then watch the pressure gauge to see how fast it drops. Then use a bright flashlight to look for the leak.

For small leaks, a green UV fluorescent dye can be added, and a UV light used to detect the leak. Note the dye is green, so your orange coolant will look like you used the wrong fill. Looks weird, but the coolant will continue to work fine.

 

Yes Sir Sony!!!.. I will look in the morning , I'm also getting the front up on Jack stands and taking a look under the front past the splash panel onto the Engine Cover (underneath) as I see a drip that seems to have formed dead center.. I'm wondering if it's just a loose drain cap?.. I only could see it from the front as there is zero clearance to get under..
This car is the only family I have... It kills me to think anything serious could be wrong..

 

BUT!!! BUT-BUT-BUT!!!!!
Remember there is that insulated tray underneath the car! With that much dripping, it's probably saturated and the drip location can NOT (necessarily) be located by where it drops onto the floor or ground.