The window tray in my coupe has developed a nasty habit of detaching from its fasteners and as a result it either hangs loosely, or falls completely off. Apparently, the fastening hardware has become loose over time and usage. So I took a couple of hours to MacGyver a fix.

Here's what I came up with.

The Upper Tray Fastners:
The rubber base of the old twist-off over-center lever kept slipping out of its hole in the hatch; so it was discarded in favor a more robust attachment mechanism. The first four (4) pics illustrate how I modified the upper corner fasteners.

First I found a short length of fuel injection hose which fit tightly into the existing hatch opening/hole. This was wedged in snugly, and cut flush to the surface. Then a plastic drywall-type insert was tapped into the inside diameter of the hose. The insert's barbs both expanded the hose behind the hole while at the same time providing a secure grip to the inside diameter of the rubber hose. A stainless phillips head screw w/ a black plastic washer was used to secure the tray tightly in place. This arrangement provides a secure attachment; but one that is easily undone to remove the tray in order to clean the hatch window.

Lower Tray Fastener:
Pics five (5) through eight (8) illustrate the fix employed for the bottom bracket attachment point. The issue w/ the lower part of the tray was that the tray body kept slipping off the lip of the black plastic bracket. The grip edge of the bracket is only about an eighth of an inch wide, and if the post of the bracket slipped downward out of its rubber sleeves [inserted into the hole in the hatch], it created enough looseness to break free. Sometimes the top connectors became loose; and that also allowed the tray to slide off the bracket's gripping edge.

The fix on the bottom end was to keep the bracket connected to the tray. The brackets have a small 1/8 " hole in their center and a hole was drilled through the tray body lining up with this hole. Then a self-tapping stainless screw and a countersunk finish washer was used to fasten the tray to the bracket. The post of bracket enters the hatch at an slight angle, so as long as the top fasteners hold the tray in place, the bottom bracket will remain securely attached to the hatch lid.

To remove the tray, the top two screws are removed and the posts of the bottom two brackets are slipped out of their rubber sleeves. I'd like to find a wing nut arrangement on the top so that no tools are required in order to take off the tray. However, as it is, it only takes a minute to remove. The best part is the tray finally remains in securely place. gordo

 

You can also buy new hardware from Jaguar for just a few dollars, that's what I did on mine: C2P5141leg, C2P24519 & XR82208

 

I now understand what caused the the shelf to fall. It was a bottom bracket (PN C2P5141leg) failure. Looking at the [broken] bracket that was on the car when I bought it, I did not know that it was supposed to grip, or pinch, the parcel shelf panel from both sides, top and bottom. Apparently the top attachment point was unscrewed, or it slipped out of its socket; leaving the unsupported weight of the parcel shelf gripped solely by the bottom bracket. The weighted leverage of the tray then snapped off the bottom portion of the bracket... leaving only about an eighth of an inch left, e.g., the "gripping edge" as I called it above. I wondered why Jaguar would design something like that; and now I know that it was actually a broken part I was working with.

I am going to buy a couple of new C2P5141leg bottom brackets as it will allow the tray to be slipped upward and out more easily;

However I like my top mount screw fix better than the OEM style as it provides a more secure hold onto the hatch frame. I think I'll try running a machine threaded tap into the drywall insert so I can reuse the original OEM black over-center locking lever by screwing it into the beefed up base plug I created.

 

I live more than an hour's drive from a Jag Dealer, so I buy most parts online. LOL The price of the the parts is less than the price of the shipping.... But it's worth it in the long run to keep the small bits and pieces properly maintained in an expensive car. Thanks again Jahummer for pointing me in the right direction. gordo

Package Tray Trim Clip. Pkg tray trim pin.
C2P5141LEG Quantity:2 Price:$3.95

Package Tray Trim Clip. Pkg tray trim grommet.
XR82208 Quantity:2 Price:$1.20

2 products , 4 items:$10.30

Shipping & Handling to FL, USA:$10.95
Tax:$0.72

Total:$21.97
_________________________

Prices for repair kits, which are basically a new set of OEM hardware, vary all over the place. I saw a one on the GB Ebay site for like US$ 45 !! So if you go this route, look at a couple of vendors first using the PN's above. g.

 

If its any consolation;
I find it infinitely cheaper and better to have parts shipped to me than going in person to the physical location just 5 miles from me.

For instance, to get oil from 5 miles away, I have to fight traffic for 45mins round trip, wait in line at the counter. Be heckled to buy a new car. And wait for the parts counter guy to pull it. Then he has to send me to the cashier. OR I just pay $8 priority mail to have 6 bottles shipped 4500 miles from Hawaii. And its less than my local tax.

 

QC: Thank you for your empathy. I basically agree. Like millions of online shoppers, I've virtually abandoned brick and mortar stores for the convenience of buying online and then opening up the mailbox a few days later. Service owns me.

Yet I find it rather ironic that the postage of these times costs more than the parts. I think it was some time during the 1960s that the service portion of the GDP began to outpace both the agriculture and manufacturing sectors. We haven't look back since.

 

Sorry to digress but its worth mentioning.
Yes the parts are foreign labor rates including shipping from far away- the domestic shipping is domestic labor rates and efficiency.
One can see how since the beginning of time the have-nots have subsidized our efficiency.
BTW I can get shipping from China for $1 and 10days. Cant get tea from UK without the tea going out of date in the 40 shipping days and it cost $15 to ship.

 

On the point of fixing the small things and keeping it new.
I read 30 years ago in a fantastic book called 'Drive it forever', that simply keeping a car clean prolonged its life, because when you stop taking pride and demanding perfection, the downward spiral begins and one eventually even ignores mechanical upkeep.

The beauty of the XK (or a Rolls) is in keeping it new and it has been designed to be able to do so. My interior is now better than new as leather scent has homogenized. I get a lot of compliments how great it smells. They say 'wow it smells new', no its way better than new.

 

Which product(s) do you use?

Graham

 

A recent groundbreaking study done by these folks https://www.blcleathertech.com/what-we-do who know a thing or two about leather, turned on its head, what we know about protecting it.

It concluded that the only enemy of modern protected leathers is the abrasion based removal of the protective top coat. In fact, its not the leather one needs to ever worry about preserving, that has been done for you and you really have no way of even reaching the leather- its the clear coat that one needs to preserve. Not unlike painted metal.
Makes sense the only place I have seen leather suffer is the areas of abrasion, starting with the most scuffed, the bolsters.

They approved a solution that has now becoming widespread amongst many manufacturers. In UK one is fortunate enough to be able to buy the essential formula under many names. The easiest way to spot this product is to look for 'Dye guard' or something that promises the prevention of colour transfer from clothing on to leather, such as jeans. The ink barrier is a byproduct of the abrasion resistance. (easier to sell staining as opposed to abrasion)

Its a bit convoluted because there are many players in this filed and all small. And loads of private labeling. This is the company that developed the product, important to note; "the only company in the industry with dedicated research and development facilities" Dr. Tork & UNITERS Research Center

This is a good choice for those in UK, they understand the importance of 'nose' (they sell leather aroma and the last remaining link to Connolly)
Leathercare Renovations

In USA- Leather Masters Ink stop- its all you will ever need.
https://www.leatherworldtech.com/Lea...top-p/lmis.htm

It has not changed the 'hand' of the leather in my car, it does obviously make it as if it had a dry lubricant on it. Thats the point. And it has not changed the aroma for better or worse.

 

Some of you might find interesting (please dont shoot the messenger)
The same study found many chemicals designed to soften the feel or leather, did so at the cost of softening and ultimately deteriorating the clear coat. Makes sense. Especially given that many of these chemicals are concocted by 'Artisans'.

 

You should try http://www.jaguarlandroverrenoparts.com

 

Thanks for this.

I've been using 303 Aerospace protectant on the dash and door panel leather as recommended by Tampamark (where the hell has he been anyway.......). It's easy to apply and makes a nice sheen. Seems to be working.

 

Sheen Richard? Sheen is for pedestrians who need to live with vinyl.

The only downside I can see to applying 303 to dash, is the long-term possibility of altering the signature scent. but it would depend if you have walnut or some other trim.

What do you use on the seats?

 

I use Gliptone conditioner on the seats and the dash and doors every 6 months. Gliptone has a decent leather smell. I use it in the house furniture also...
I put the 303 on the dash and doors about every 2 months.

 

Feeding the hide? that creature seized to be while back.

 

Right. Which is why I thanked you for the above post. I may look into the Leather Masters Ink stop.

Sorry for the thread hijack Gordo.

 

Only you Richard would think to feed an animal after it has expired.
And hijack a thread.
Happy new year.

 

Now that's funny. Happy new year

 

I've got this from the Jaguar Service Bulletins if it's still of use to anyone. It seems you just need to add a couple of washers to keep the parcel shelf in place....