Very reluctantly I'm dismantling my 2008 XKR engine to take the heads off. (The RH one bubbled air into the coolant when I did a leak-down test on cylinders 5 and 7.)
Anyway, I've got as far as the crankshaft pulley removal and got stuck. I tried locking a wrench onto the nut and pulsing the starter motor but the wrench always comes off. I can't see exctly what's happening because I'm in the car, but I suspect the engine is torqueing upwards because the ratchet is jammed against the crossbar on the car's frame. I've tried jamming it in tight but the engine movement always throws it loose.
I can see the special tool listed for XK100's but the supercharged XK150 has two pulleys and is much deeper and the tool is $200! That's kinda crazy. Anyone want to loan me the tool or know a substitute?
And while I'm whining a little (it comes from having to face a head tear-down) I've noticed broadly speaking that there's lots of articles and parts listed for XK's up to 2003 or so, but then it gets quiet and the 2007 to 2009 XK150 cars have much, much less for them in DIY's and after market parts.
I guess the XK150 crowd polish the door mirrors but they let someone else open the hood!
Mark


The point where you wished you'd been more careful when buying your latest car!

 

GBmark if the Chantilly is in VA and you are a member of either the JAGUAR CLUBS of NORTH AMERICA (JCNA) or a Coventry Foundation Patron you can loan those tools--and you are correct the SC car needs a deeper adaptor. That said they work like a charm!

 

MarkyUK sounds like my twin brother! Yes I'm a Brit living in Chantilly Virginia.
Thanks for the club loaner suggestion. The annual dues of the Capital Region is around $70, then there's tool shipping back and forward so about $100.
But, here's what I've just done:
I put the little engine locking tool peg in the . . . . ha ha ha, no I didn't! I might have bought an XKR with a cracked head but I'm not THAT stupid.
No, I took an old serpentine belt and wrapped it around the pulley and then down below the engine. I looped it around a 2 x 4 and twisted the wood until it was tight and the wood was sitting up against the underside of the engine. I began rotating the pulley with the bolt and the belt tightened real well and then held rock solid. I then took an 8' length of pipe and began undoing the bolt. It came right off with no drama.
Mark

 

Well done.

 

I guess I spoke too soon. The crankshaft pulley bolt is out but the pulley is firmly attached and won't budge.
I made up a tool from a puller that I already had, but it just bends sideways once I have it cranked up tight.
I tried knocking around the pulley with a hammer while it was under tension, but no joy.
I even tried applying a little heat. I didn't have the right length M8 outer bolts apart from some aluminium ones, and of course one snapped.
Then I made my shorter steel bolts connect but it was a terrible tricky operation because I'm leaning over the front with no space down there and still no joy.
Are there any tricks? Yeh, I know go buy the correct puller for $200.


My puller modified with angle iron

 

Have you tried one of those 3 jaw pullers? Or is there not enough room for that?

 

I don't think the fingers would go around it. The crankshaft pulley is quite large. It;s over 6" in diameter and 4" deep on the XKR. Also there's not much room in front of it with the engine installed.
But I have yet to remove the fan shroud which should help with the space problem.
Yesterday I made some adjustments and cranked down hard on my home-made puller and then PING! the lower bolt pulled right out of its threaded hole.
I think one of the issues is that it's very important to have a perfect balance of force across the two bolts attached to the flywheel.
I'm not sure if my threaded pulley hole is toast or whether I will still be able to get enough grip. I'm hoping that the bolt wasn't threaded in totally but we shall see when I make my next attempt - I've ordered a sturdy harmonic balancer puller

 

I know the key is to keep those threads on the tool greased up as much as possible.

Unrelated question - with the valve covers off, do you have any better access to the exhaust manifolds and heat shields? Lets say... hypothetically, a friend I know might need to replace the manifold gaskets LOL

 

You can access the small top 2 bolts on the heat shield easily, but I know that the instructions for removing the cylinder head have you disconnecting at the catalytic converter and lifting the head off with the exhaust manifold still attached.

 

The harmonic balancer puller arrived. I bought this Ares one which is very good and only $65 The only problem was that the bolts it came with were too short for the double width S/C pulley, so I had to wait another week for some longer ones.
m8 x 1.25 x 110mm will do the trick.

Even then the tool was trying to pull off to the right, but I jammed in a piece of metal to stop it and suddenly "Boink" - the pulley began to move.
If all the dismantling takes this long, it will be Christmas before I'm finished with the heads!!
Mark

 

You should connect with Ranchero, he tore his car down and built it back up and could probably direct you better than most.

'The Green Turtle' or 'Lets Fix This Junk' - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum

 

Necessity is... and will continue to be... the mother of invention.
gbmarc has the patience of jobe. If it was me I,d be in a rubber room somewhere.