Undecided on a thread title so you pick one. Spent the day doing a 331 mile round trip to look at a Craigslist listed black '07 XKR which was in good shape but needed some TLC, a water pump and a decent exhaust.



Looks good, email conversation said it also needed TPS married and gave a code along with O2 codes. Got there and the owner pulled it out of the garage and it looks pretty rough. Gouge in the bumper cover, crease along the passenger rear qtr that was repaired but has some corrosion under the bondo. Passenger side fender vent slightly buggered and the lamp looks like it was hit with 40 grit sand paper. Tan interior gets high marks, no dash shrinkage, looked really well compared to the outside. Headlamps need refinished and cleared. Wheels are scarred up pretty bad as well as the OEM 19" ones. Paint has about 10,000 paint chips showing white. Only has the one sensor in the front bumper and four in the back.

Took it for a ride, fans run full blast all the time, idle hunts but it runs really well and shifted fine in spite of the water pump slinging coolant. No bad noises except the horrible 'mufflers' coming out the back.

Checked for codes, fan circuit and O2's along with the TPS fault keep the display busy.

Took a couple deep breaths and made the plunge. Sorted out the payment with their bank to get the lien lifted on the title (clear in the ad) and tried to load it on the trailer. Aftermarket wheels are too wide top fit between the fenders so we got it on the trailer and then swapped to the OEM 19's with old flat rubber up front and rolled it the rest of the way.

I'll post up some pics in the morning as well as the codes it was displaying. I think it'll make a dang nice car once we get it sorted out. I need to find an owners manual and an online shop manual would be a huge help. If not, eBay.

 

Congrats and good luck! Is that grill not OEM? I thought all the 07's had the bar through the emblem. I think it's funny that a 10 year old jag looks pretty much the same as a 2 year old to most people.

 

I will be interested in following your story. Congrats on the car, and it's a coupe. Coupes seem kind of scarce around my area. Good luck.

 

Maybe it was optionable, but I think all XK's had the bar, and the XKR did not.

 

So here's a couple pics of my new 'Black' XKR shown in typical 'British' weather to help hide the road rash. I have both sets of wheels, flat fronts fit between the trailer fenders and I like them much better than the OZ things on the back.







Exhaust is on the short list of things to get fixed. Thankfully most of the OEM stuff is still there. Muffler is MIA which is a bummer. Cats are punched out because they clogged up.


Nose has a shallow divot where someone backed into it from the side.


Fender vent took a hit that slightly creased the door at the front and whacked the rear quarter enough that it was Bondo'd.


Quarter panel corrosion has me concerned. I'm hoping the white death hasn't creeped too far beyond the bubbles. Opposite side has a couple paint crack and spider webs creeping under the paint. I know aluminum can be challenging to repair from boat experience.


So yeah, if you squint real hard you'll notice that it's British Racing Green, not Black. PO who's had the car since '12 admitted (more or less) that the green was a turn off to some buyers. I think it was more that the exterior of the car doesn't show well. They also didn't seem the type to get hands on and fix stuff vs. shop it out and left the car go down hill because of that. Too nice to get rid of, needed too much work to make right. They finally decided to sell it hopefully to someone who'd make it right again.

So, short term goal is to find a home for it and get it off the trailer in one piece. Off to harbor freight to pick up a jack since none of mine want to work. I also need to start researching how to remove the coating on the Jag wheels so I can repair them.

 

What kind of exhaust system is on your XKR? It definitely is not stock. What does it sound like?

 

So if you got this for between $5-$10K then you got a winner.

 

Yes, definitely not OEM grille. To me the updated grille (as the one that is on the car) gives it the appearance of a newer vehicle. Good luck with all the cosmetic work.

 

I think what you saw on the front was the cover for the hole that you stick the towing eye in to.

 

Sounds like a mid '90's summer Saturday night when the street racers in their Fox body Mustangs with Flowmaster exhaust's were burning up the town. Really, really drones below 3k. From what I've seen it's gutted stuck cats and stock pipes to the back, then two wonky ricer glass packs sort of connecting the original pipe to the stock opening. With the angles involve it just looks dumb.

$10.5k. After spending some time with it I think it's worth between $8-9k with the body wear and other issues but I haven't seen one at a similar price point in the 6 months I've been looking except a '08 XKR vert that had been abandoned for a couple years up in NY for $7900. Other than this it was going to be an XJR but I couldn't get past how they look too far stretched out.

Today I found out just how much these cars hate a weak battery. Oh what an experience that was while trying to read DTC codes on the laptop. Getting P050B, P0031, P0131, P0134 and P0480. So o2's and cooling fan running all the time.

It's on the trickle charger overnight with the battery disconnected. I expect I'll be getting another and a solar charger setup for it.

 

That's interesting. Possibly crash replacement early in it's life or related to the passenger side damage? PO said it was like that when they bought it. Today I noticed over spray on the bottom of the drivers side vent so maybe it's had a full respray some time in the past. The nose looks about the same age as the rest of the car wear wise. Even the Jaguar badge has a huge stone crack in the front. VIN last five digits is mid 15k.

 

The grille is genuine OEM Jaguar and was the same on 2007, 2008, & 2009.

Below is an image of my 2009 front & grille.

Although the price was $10,500 you will have plenty of work and expense to bring this XKR up to a better quality ride. Repairs will not be cheap. I don't believe you mentioned the mileage. I would think you're looking at another $10,000+ to bring the XKR up a greatly improved condition.

New paint alone will probably run $8000+ for a good quality paint job if done correctly. It will be the small stuff that really adds up very fast on these cars.

With these XKR's you really get what you pay for.

Click the image to enlarge.

..

 

First dibs on the fart cans...

 

It's OK, The rest of the herd within 500 miles was in much better shape for @ $22k with similar mileage (122k). I'm not stressed over the paint and bodywork, expecting less than $600 in materials to prep it with the exception of the corroded area. I'm not sure if it'll just be an acid etch and pacification process or something more involved like removing metal. wheel lip has me concerned and I really want to dig into it but other stuff has priority. I'm a printing press mechanic by trade, a fabricator / machinist by hobby. I actually enjoy the challenge of fixing up neglected stuff. I'm a tinkerer along the Jessie James theme of "it's got to work and it's got to be cool" to define if the project is a success or not.

Built this guy a couple years ago, a Seadoo power aluminum bass boat.


Currently working on making a '05 Sportster fit me and my style of riding. Fabbing up a fairing out of aluminum.


The only part of the car that I'm bothered about is the fan assy. I'd lay money a mosfet burned out in the controller so it's running full blast when the ignition powers up. I did 6 years as an electronics tech in the Navy and still remember some of it. I despise the idea of buying a new fan assy for a controller problem.

You sir, are certifiable but we can work something out. What do you want them for?

An in process pic of the replacement exhaust on my Lincoln LS, 409 stainless with a pair of Pypes race mufflers in the back and an X pipe up front. X pipe was 2.25" and then stepped up to 2.5" out the back. Sounds good but the pipe was too large for a 3.9l and it lost torque. About $550 in mandrel bent J pipes and the mufflers from Summit. Reused the stock tips.


Versus the stock setup.



I'll do something similar with the XKR but probably stay with 2.25" back to the muffler. I had thought about doing it 2.5" all the way back and using the stock valve actuator circuit to open up a 2.25" opening valve to full diameter.

Yesterdays adventure with the battery reminded me that I need to go slow with the car. The PO said they hadn't run it for the past 18 months when the water pump started leaking.

 

Spent some more time on the car. It's currently on jack stands in the garage and I started working on the fan. Thought maybe it was just an connection issue but no dice. Did a Google search on Jaguar fan controllers and it brought up a bunch of X type fan controller problems where the thyristor that was attached to the heat sink failed. Looked on mine and there's a heat sink right at the motor so there may be hope of repair / upgrade vs. replacement. Electrical print said PWM control, similar to how Dodge does charging circuit. Curious how the ECU is monitoring the output with only an enable and control circuit, without a feedback circuit.

I'm four bolts in, intake ducts are gone and the fan is loose. The innercooler pump is attached to the fan housing so I'm going to try and remove it without fighting the coolant lines. Everything is a tight fit but so far, no bloodshed.

 

Sooo, where did you put the jack stands? When I went to use my floor jack (low profile harbor freight aluminum jack 3 Ton Aluminum Racing Floor Jack with RapidPump®), I couldn't get the jack stand under the corner at the same time as having the floor jack in that corner. Unless there was some other spot to jack or put the floor stands.

 

Nice work on the other projects and it looks like you are up to the challenge here. Now in my youth I would have liked to tackle something like this but would have preferred one with a blown engine. In today's age if this car had a bad engine I would have considered an LS motor with a 6 speed manual. That would be fun. OK good luck.

 

I jacked the front at the lift point and since the car is stiff enough, the back came up too. Placed the rear stand where the steel sub frame bolts to the body (3 bolts) and the front went on the front sub frame at the front isolation mount for the lower control arm. It'll give me enough room to drop the fan out and also get the oil drained. Current oil filter is rusty and the only oil leak I've found is on the oil pressure sensor beside the filter.

I'm a Ford guy, don't have much luck with Chevy's. I think this car is a good value for my use and duty. I jacked my back up at work last year so positioning is important to work on the car. It's almost therapeutic. I figure I'll do a little bit each night and make progress each time I work on it.

 

Looking forward to watching your progress and learning from your brave endeavor

 

Thanks, spent another hour on the car last night and after looking at the service manual I think I can remove the top of the core support without removing the hood if I support the top of the hood. I did manage to take some of the inner cooler hoses off without tearing them but did find one of the expansion tank fittings broken which will need fixed and epoxied in place. Vertical core support cross member is also loose and floating between the fan and engine. I also drained about 1/2 gallon of coolant out of the radiator. I'll get some photos posted once the router stops fighting me.