I have a question about the cooling elements that I have to replace in a xk 4.2 from 2008.
I have read that many hoses have to be replaced in the xkr including the valley hose and I do not know if this hose is present in the xk since I have to replace the thermostat housing and the thermostat I would like to know if the hose must also be changed of the valley in the assumption that the xk takes it.
Could someone inform me?

 

This should help you

Pic of the SC 4.2 - SC not shown. Hose #9 to the TB is the valley hose. 11 is the return.

Pic of N/A 4.2. No such hose in the diagram as the throttle body is up front on the N/A (Yellow and Pink lines in the diagram).

 

Thanks for solving my question.

 

if I may?...
i am replacing Header Tank, Valley Hose, Water Pump, Serpentine belt on my SC 4.2 - what else should i change while I'm at it?

 

Tha 4.2 N/A does not have the valley hose,but it does have the EGR return hose that goes down into the inlet manifold. Mine burst and over heated the engine. Luckily I escaped any engine damage. Definitely worth renewing for peace of mind .if you do a search on here I documented replacing mine.
Tommy.

 

Last summer I replaced all coolant hoses and manifolds including the thermostat and housing when my car was in under warranty for a S/C isolator change. My 2014 XKR only has about 19,000 miles. I hope I'm good for another 6 to 7 years without worry. I also changed the transmission fluid, ediff fluid and did a brake fluid change. The only other maintenance or problematic item I'm concerned about are the timing chain tensioners/guides. Although, based on my VIN my car has the upgraded thicker chain. I change my oil every 3 months or 1,500 miles to keep the lubricating holes free of contaminates.

 

Dump the oil out of your supercharger and replace it. You'll have it off anyway.

 

I have the 4.2 engine w / o SC, in an 2007 XK Convertible.

I have already replaced ( flushed ) Tranny and Differential oil. And replaced the spark plugs. Engine oil change every year is axiomatic.

Should I replace ALL water hoses? Complete cooling and heating system? Thermostat is advisable, I´ve heard, thermostat housing, too.

Water pump, too? I am reluctant to touch engine things that are running well, as a Jag expert, who looked at my car closely said: leave it alone.

I am thinking at buying ALL water hoses and parts dicussed ( how much do you think this will cost me? ), and then wait for the first failure or change in advance?

What do those with experiences in that matters say?

Thanks in advance, Hermann

 

Thank you, I have this in my plan and have the kit to do it.

 

All the extensive research I have done suggests may as well replace:
1. Water Pump - apparently they can/do fail from 50,000 miles
2. Expansion Tank - as above
3. Thermostat - as above

I paid not a lot for the above from Berkshire Jaguar in England- they get oem direct from the factory and save a fortune on buying from any Jag dealer - I'm sure they would ship to Austria
Two reasons I would do change this stuff:
1. The evidence is out there that you could end up with problems if you dont - I spent days searching the internet for this
2. If changing the Valley you are going to have access to this anyway, may as well kill it all in one go

 

Guys, wondered if someone would mind double-checking for me the "valley hoses". I believe these are the ones labelled as Hoses 9, 10 & 11 as shown in the diagram in post #2?
What I have been able to find that I think is correct are the following part numbers (for a 2009 XKR 4.2L S/C) :-
9. EGR Coolant Inlet HOSE AJ811062
10. Feed to throttle body AJ811063
11. Return from throttle body AJ811064.

I intend on doing a replacement of the "valley hoses" as I intend on keeping the car for another 10 years and want peace of mind. I will be doing both belts, accessory drive tensioner, pulley, thermostat, and water pumps. Obviously the coolant flush and refill.
Thanks in advance

 

Hi Sean,

Can you provide corrosponding part numbers for this diagram please?

I am in the process of getting all the parts for this repair on my 2009 4.2 Jaguar XKRS and I think my local indy garge would appreciate a diagram and where pipes are located etc...

This post was most useful

Thank you sir.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...2023-a-266128/


AJ811064 – Block to EGR hose
AJ811063 – Throttle Body to EGR hose
AJ811062 – Block to Throttle body
AJ811638 – coolant manifold to block hose
AJ87246 – Upper EGR pipe gasket
AJ88560 – EGR to throttle body gasket
KSC137624 – Bypass valve housing to throttle elbow
C2C11477010 – Coolant manifold seal x2
AJ83292 – Supercharger to throttle body elbow gasket
NCC7735BA – Supercharger outlet seal
AJ86925 – Supercharger to charge cooler seals x2
C2C37055 – Supercharger drive belt
C2C37063 – Main engine drive belt
AJ89646 – Supercharger coolant filler seal

 

Is there a way tell if the valley hose has been changed by looking at it?

 

If you can look at it, you've already taken most of the engine apart already so may as well change it.

 

Who said anything about having the engine apart, I am asking if there is away to know if any previous owner has done this .

 

How do you propose on LOOKING at it WITHOUT the engine half apart? I'd really like to see that happen.

 

So I guess that is the answer, there is no way to tell on an intact engine.

 

X ray vision helps.
wj

 

Please read this - it will save you time and $$$

After a split in my Valley hose...right under the thermostat housing, tactically situated where you cannot see it, which almost caused me to overheat my engine it was time to replace the said hose.

Firstly... it took me some time to determine the part number. It is
AJ811062
It is the hose that goes from the EGR valve through the cylinder blocks to the coolant manifold, just under the thermostat housing part. It is a uniform hose up until that join on the coolant manifold where it goes through a clamped on reducer structure - a marvelous bit of lousy engineering, and the weak link in the chain.

The problems to replace this are well documented. In short you just can't get to, or even see the damned thing. I had to use a boroscope several times during much of my work.

Basic disassembly overview
Drain the engine of coolant.
Remove engine cover and associated.
Remove air cleaner tubes.
Remove the supercharger belt.
Back off all the spring clips and loosen off the hoses (there are four) from the manifold.
Unscrew the Torx bolts from the manifold. (1/4" drive shaft fits perfectly)
By pulling UP on the RH side of the manifold (i.e. twisting it anti-clockwise if looking at it from the front of the car) you will be able to expose the clip for the Valley hose. You can then pull it off.

Remove supercharger air intake manifold, together with the crumbled reducer air seal. This had to be replaced ... see below.
Remove electrical connector and throttle (4 bolts) and gasket. Pull to the side and hod in place with a utility strap.
Remove EGR electrical connector and loosen coolant hoses. (the hose higher up and to the right of the connector goes to the throttle, the lower hose is the Valley hose)
Pull those hoses off but BE CAREFUL of the Brake Vacuum Hose... see below.

Now the genius part...

I cut and removed the reducer part of the old hose off from the front of the engine. I now had an old hose of uniform size all the way through.
I had the idea of pulling the new hose through so as not to have to remove the SC.
There is a foam pad that can be pulled out from the back of the engine valley.

I tried many things to run a cable through that Valley pipe... thin rope, electrical wire, fishing line, fishing line with a tiny foam pad tied to the end and compressed air to "blow" it down... none worked.
What DID work was an electric bass guitar string (the D string). I pushed the ball end down the pipe and it fished through easily. Once out I used that to pull a length of fishing test and in turn a synthetic thin rope back out. I did the same with the new hose - a bass string then a fishing line then used the fishing line to pull the original rope through the new hose.
I now had a rope running through from the rear of the old hose and continuing through to the engine front side of the new hose. I wiped the new hose with a cloth saturated in silicon lubricant.

I threaded a large washer on the front of the new hose side of the rope and tied a secure knot. I then pulled ON THE ROPE from thee rear of the engine and after some pullling and stretching managed to pull the new hose all the way through the engine block!

What did NOT work was an attempt to also tape splice the two ends with duct tape. This prevented it from sliding through! The rope "pulling" it through is the way to go.
It is still a bitch to attach the front of the hose to the manifold and what worked for me was to pull the hose back out a bit from the front to allow me to attach the front end and then slowly pull and wiggle the hose from the back to re-seat the manifold.

The supercharger air seal you cannot buy separately without the whole structure ($1400) ...some will sell it on eBay for as much as $170. I found a perfect version of the seal at Ace Hardware - a 3" Fernco Hub coupling rubber sleeve $6.99. I only used the rubber part which fit perfectly (I actually trimmed of about a 1/4" but you don't need to do that)
Someone told me to be careful as that was not "engineered to the same standard as the original" to which I responded that would be a good thing, as the original crumbled. Once attached with spring clamps it is great.

Brake vacuum line was cracked and so I wanted to replace it - beats me WHY such a critical safety part would not be made of steel? The line pulls out of the throttle body - push IN on the plastic ring in the brass insert and pull out the hose. I examined the plastic ring and found it to be broken. Replacing that is a $79 part !!! You don't need to replace the brass insert, just fish out the brittle and cracked O-Ring (very fiddly, see boroscope above and please put rags in the throttle intake!) and then push the new clip in place.

I also did an oil change on the SC.
On this car with all stripped down access to the filler plug was easy with a long 3/16" hex shaft socket.
ACDelco 10-4041 oil with a syringe... use a thin plastic tube and work it in to the SC, I managed to pull 195 ml of old oil - almost all of it (the smelliest bad feet smell I have ever experienced) and refilled until it started to leak out)

I had to remove the SC coolant fill plug (17mm hex socket) Very tight! I would be careful in using too much force as the SC unit is held on with rather small bolts. What I did was put the 17mm hex socket on to the 1/2" breaker bar and applied a firm even anti-clockwise force. I then used a hammer to apply some gentle vertical "love taps" to the top of the breaker bar above the plug and it quickly came loose.

Enjoy the photos!

Phil

 

Sounds amazing but really needs a video - I removed the SC plug a while back to check that the Coolant was ok, I think I needed a breaker bar to get it off, I torqued it up to the correct spec after - I also did the SC fluid - it was tricky to get the old stuff out, I used an electric pump and got almost 200mil out - refilled 200mil and a week later I topped up until it overfilled.

Its hard to see what its going on with the valley hoses without a video or something