I've searched this whole forum and read all the posts about keyless entry and door handles, but can't find any with a solution to the problem my car has. So if anyone can help, thanks in advance.
The door handles have little rubber buttons on them. If you have the key fob close enough to the car, like in your pocket, you're supposed to be able to push that button and the car locks, and by pulling on the handle, the car unlocks. Again, if you have the key fob close enough. On my car, it works with the passenger door (right side), but not with the driver's door (left side). Pushing the button on the left handle does nothing (except you hear a faint click of the button). If the car is already locked, pulling on the driver's side handle will not unlock the car. The passenger side works fine. I replaced the driver's side door handle with a brand new one and that did not help. I've checked all the fuses. I checked the computer and made sure the two-step access was set to off. I tried moving the key fob around to different places thinking that maybe it wasn't getting picked up when it's on the driver's side of the car. Not sure what to try next. It seems strange to me that one side works fine and the other doesn't. Locking the doors from the inside works as designed, too, as I can push on either the left or right inside door handle and both doors lock. And "boooping" the key fob from outside the car works fine, too. Anybody ever had this one?

 

Japanese market cars such as mine have very low power/range fobs so I find it I don't stand close enough to the car when pressing that button I get a warning beep so if you aren't getting that it is either detecting the fob or just not working at all.

 

I never touch my Smartkey to unlock the vehicle. It stays in my pocked and the vehicle unlocks as I pull the door handle. When parking, press the button, and the vehicle locks BUT not if you are gripping the door handle.

The usual cause of failure is a button fault but that would be resolved with a replacement door handle. Next are a door handle harness connector fault or a failed microswitch in the door latch. Here's a thread where I replaced my door reinforcement:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...cement-210597/

Door Latch microswitch failure is common on ealrier models but I don't recall posts in X150 reporting this. Nevertheless, it is almost inevitable as the vehicles age.

Graham

 

Hi Graham, yeah, I read that post before I replaced the door handle. Great post, by the way! Downloaded the .pdf, too. I had trouble getting the lock cylinder out. Guess enough crud built up over the years that it just wouldn’t slide out easily. So I popped the inner door panel off. That’s supposed to be an easy task, but with the Florida heat and the car being 14 years old, the plastic has gotten brittle, and some of those push fastener mount points broke off. Then it’s a two day project trying to rebuild the door panel. I’m not springing 2K for a new panel - if you can even find one! So, long story short, I got the handle replaced, fixed the panel, reassembled everything, but the button still does not work. Passenger side works great.

Question is - how confident are you that it’s the micro switch in the door latch? To replace that part, I would have to pull the door panel off again, and I’m not sure it would survive another cycle of being removed.

Here’s one more thought - I have the Carsoft code reader for JLR. In the menu of modules it can read is “Keyless Vehicle Module” and reading that gave me a code of “B10CA Rear left door handle antenna”. Could it be not picking up the fob? I tried an experiment. Passenger door works if the fob is right next to the handle. It also works if the fob is sitting on the roof of the car. It does not work if the fob is next to the driver’s door handle. Driver’s door handle never works, even if the fob is next to the passenger’s door handle. Could it be as simple as an antenna? Has anyone else seen that problem or replaced that part?

Thanks for your help,
Rick

 

Interesting. I don’t get a beep. If I move the fob far enough away from the passenger door (which works), pressing the button on the door handle will not lock the car, but it does not beep either. Maybe cars in different markets act a little differently? Or is there a setting in the computer to change that?

Thanks for your help,
Rick

 

Before spending any more money might be worth trying a hard reset to totally reset the module that controls this.
Hard reset is achieved by disconnecting battery and shorting pos and neg leads together whilst disconnected
you might need to reset windows and seats afterwards as well as parking brake.
or find the correct fuse and take out for a few minutes.

 

Rick,

The door panel isn't exactly made for quick removal. I can fully understand your reluctance to go there again.

I'm not 'confident' it's a microswitch but do consider it as a likely possible cause given similar issues on earlier models. I would certainly treat iCarsoft reporting a code of “B10CA Rear left door handle antenna” with suspicion on a two door vehicle! I have both iCarsoft and SDD but this is one of the situations I'd turn to SDD for error code checking.

JEPC shows a single Antenna for keyless entry:





If this has failed, I'd expect the entire keyless entry function to be affected and not just the one side.

Graham

 

I'd agree with Graham that the keyless antenna is unlikely to be the problem as the passenger door seems to work as expected. Do the other fob functions like trunk release and headlights on work? If so, even more unlikely to be the antenna.
Taking the door card off and refitting is not trivial but there are some threads that have some hints to make it easier.
Look at Fig 13.4 in the Stickies electrical guide for the 4.2 L. Maybe a bad connection or ground in the driver door lock assembly to the driver door module wiring. Does the door ajar indicator work for that door? Does the driver door interior handle movement lock and unlock both doors? If "drive way locking" is set to on, do both doors lock at 2-3 MPH? These features seem to have some common elements through the driver door lock assembly, associated wiring and MS CAN bus.

 

Ok, this is a little embarrassing. First, thanks to everyone who responded with helpful facts and advice. Much appreciated. I figured I had to try something, so I went back and pulled the door handle off using Graham's method, since I was loath to try popping the door panel off again, and whadayaknow?, the wire pulled out of the connector. Now, I know damn well I plugged that thing in before I put the door panel back on, but maybe I didn't get it seated right and it came loose. Now the problem was trying to fish the other half of the connector out of the door, but luckily, with a long skinny screwdriver and long skinny needlenose pliers, and my wife holding the flashlight, I was able to get the connector into the "service" position, plug the wire from the handle back in, this time making sure the little tab locked into the corresponding piece on the other side, and voila! Fixed! What a relief.

Now, some info. I did an experiment. Everything seems to work as designed. Key fob by driver's door, lock, unlock. Key fob by passenger's door, lock, unlock. All good. If you put the key fob by the passenger's door, and try to lock or unlock using the driver's door handle, it will not work. Same with the fob by the driver's door, you can't lock or unlock using the passenger's door handle. If you put the fob on the top of the roof, that must be close enough to either door that they both work. So, where I'm going with this is I'm pretty sure there are antennae in each door that are used to establish proximity with the smart key fob. Here's a page from the service manual that seems to support that theory, page 3395 from that big honkin' 4000 page manual:


Anyhow, figured I'd post this for education. Thanks again to all, car works, wife happy, me relieved. All good!

 

Good to hear you got it fixed.

I'll put a different possible interpretation on that Workshop Manual section. The illustration shows both LHD and RHD options but there's only ONE door handle antenna fitted on the DRIVER'S side of a vehicle. Only justification for this is JEPC lists only one antenna required.

Graham

 

Possible. But how do you explain the behavior where the fob has to be next to the handle that you’re operating? If the fob is next to the handle on the opposite side of the car, the handle you’re trying to operate doesn’t work. Try it with yours, just for grins….

 

It's 5 deg below this morning but I'll do anything for the forum.

The Smartkey and my hands stay in my pocket. My assistant (Mrs G) can open the passenger door with me standing beside the driver's door. Further investigation will have to wait until around March next year!

Graham

 

LOL! Your level of dedication to the forum is admirable!

And yikes, 5 below. I woulda thought that was rare in England. I won’t tell you what it is here (20 C) Doh, I said it!

And yeah, interesting… Your car the doors work with the fob on the other side. Maybe the battery in my fob is getting weak? Maybe some things have to stay a mystery? Anyway, thanks again for your help.

Rick

 

I woke up to an additional four inches of snow. My thermometer reads 16f, which is -9c.
I hate snow and cold. Why do I live here??!!??

 

For the view? The open roads? (Well, when they’re open…)

 

Not to Bogart this thread, but this is the shyte I have to deal with...

 

A white Christmas!!! :icon_sant awaving: Plus, you get to ski Alta and Snowbird and other cool places.

 

Now that your fob is working with the doors, try this. Step back at least 10 paces put the fob up by your forehead and either lock or unlock the doors. If that works do another 10 paces and try it again. If your battery in the fob is decent it should work from about 20-30 paces. You are using your body as an antenna..

 

Whoa, you’re right. It does make a difference. And when I tried it, the aliens told me the earth would be ok, but they were going to have to make some “changes”. I’m not sure what they meant exac…..

 

B-Bye