On a recent trip across France and Spain to Gibraltar someone had a go at breaking into my XK. The driver's door handle had a piece broken out and was cracked at the front. Luckily it didn't damage the door skin and I was still able to open, close and lock the vehicle throughout the remainder of the journey.



I thought it only required a replacement Door Handle but closer inspection showed the handle wasn't pivoting at the front. The whole handle pulled away from the door when it was opened.



JEPC confirmed the Reinforcement (item 3) inside the door was likely to be broken.



A new Door Handle (C2P7217XXX) at 62 UKP and Reinforcement (C2P14342) at 42 UKP were ordered. Door Handles are supplied in primer but I was fortunately able to have it painted when my car was in the bodyshop for warranty repair.

The Door Handle can be removed without any other dismantling:
1. release a section of the rubber Door Seal (arrowed in red) to reveal the access hole (arrowed in blue) for the Bezel fixing



2. use a long T25 to slacken but not remove the Bezel fixing screw
3. pull the Bezel out of the door
4. move the Door Handle rearwards and then rotate outwards to release it. The harness connector has to be clicked into the service position to prevent it falling inside the door when the connector on the Door Handle is removed.

The Reinforcement should have been firmly attached to the door with 3 plastic clips (arrowed in red) and one torx screw (arrowed in blue) but it was loose.




Removing the Door Panel is straightforward but great care must be taken with the Door Speaker Housing for no other reason than a replacement is 140 UKP! It is secured with 2 spring clips and 1 plastic hook. If the top clip (arrowed in red) is released first and then the lower one (arrowed in blue), the assembly can be slid forwards to release the plastic hook.



With the Door Panel and the Inner Water Shield removed, I could see the damaged Reinforcement behind the raised Door Glass.



It is attached to the Door Latch and they must be removed together to separate them. Absolutely impossible with the Window Regulator in the way.



After carefully marking the relative positions of the Door Glass and clamps on masking tape attached to the regulator arms, the rear of Window Regulator was disconnected and moved forwards. The Reinforcement/Door Latch assembly could then be removed.



The damage can be seen circled in red. Compare with the new Reinforcment on the left to see the pivot for the Door Handle is broken off.



The Door Latch/new Reinforcement assembly fitted securely to the door, held in place by the plastic clips at the rear and the single torx screw at the front. The harness connector can be seen in the service position next to the torx screw.



The black plastic Bezel Gasket must be fitted BEFORE the Door Handle. Once the harness is reconnected, pulling the connector outwards releases it from the service position and it can be fed back into the door as the Door Handle is inserted and clicked onto the front pivot of the Reinforcement. The Workshop Manual shows holding the lock on the Reinforcement with a length of string to insert the rear of the Door Handle but I found this unneccessary with the Door Panel removed as I could reach inside move the lock by hand,



The Bezel is refitted and the torx screw tightened to secure it. The Regulator, Window Glass, Inner Water Shield, Lift Motor and Door Panel refitted. A final check showed the new Door Handle operating correctly.



I disconnected the battery to do the work but realised later this is not strictly necessary as there is no risk of trapping fingers once the Window Lift Motor is removed.

Graham

 

Nice work, Great write up... Thank you

 

+1, Just an incredible instruction! Thanks for sharing with us.

 

As I went to throw the old parts away today, I noticed the exterior door handle and interior reinforcement unit are both stamped VOLVO. Can't beat using those OE Jaguar parts!

I suppose this is a carry over from the days of PAG (Ford's Premier Automotive Group) when they owned Aston Martin, Jaguar and Volvo Cars.

Graham

 

+1 on the outstanding write-up. If it happens to me, I'll pay a pro to fix it and have him wire the door handles to teach the next thief a lesson.

Or maybe all you need is a sticker like this on each door:

 

I had some repeated minor vandalism to my XK8 a few years ago. Put this notice on the dash top when I parked and it stopped immediately .......




...... and I wasn't even recording!

Graham

 

Excellent idea! Lots of similar signs are available on Ebay.

 

Excellent informative post

 

Soooo my 2007 XKR coupe has the access hole pictured above complete with round clear sticker to seal from outside. But no torx screw inside... just flat black metal part of the bracketry from the door latch to the door handle. What am I missing? My T25 bit has nothing to go to. Me puzzled. There have been a few other subtle differences in the directions for disassembly could it be the difference between convertibles and coupes.
Thank you in advance for your time.

 

As you can see fromy my forum signature, my current XK is a 2014 Coupe and this is the one in the photos and description.

Always possible the design has evolved since 2006. However, the Workshop Manual for the 4.2 still shows a torx screw - I've attached the relevant section. Any chance it's loosened over the years and fallen down inside the door?

Graham

 

Success! The torx bit holder I have has too large of a shaft to allow the lateral location of the screw to line up. And I couldn't see sh*t. Purchased a long neck T25 and the assembly is out... with 90% of the rest of the door. Only thing not disconnected or removed was the front track for the window and the hinges. Not kidding! There is alot going on inside our doors.
All for this for a 16" wiring harness with a micro switch.
Thanks GGG

 

I currently have an issue with my XKR drivers side keyless entry. The door opens, but will not lock pressing the button, so I believe either an issue with the small button or the wiring to it. I have read this excellent thread and just thought I would add that if you Google the Volvo part number 30784205 (as shown in one of the pictures in this thread) you will see this part advertised either second hand or new. This will just give you more scope to find the part you want cheaper, without the Jaguar hyped up pricing.

 

A word of warning on the keyless door button. My 2014 Porsche Cayenne developed the same issue and I assumed it was either the button or harness connector. The door handle is a very similar design to the Jaguar but slightly easier to remove and replace.




Devastated to find the fault still the same after replacing the button assembly! Turned out to be a locking module issue.

Graham

 

Thank you Graham, I am hoping to be able to test the switch and wiring, before I commit to buying anything. But you’re right at this stage it could be many things.

 

Three years on - thanks for this, it helped me enormously today. My fault was that the passenger door wouldn't fully close - it popped out to the 1st latch position when you shut it and I had to push it closed with my backside from the outside. A new latch mechanism was sourced (JDE38173) and I fitted it today.

A few minor amendments/additions to your post that might help others:

1) The screw for the lock barrel is a T20, not a T25, and the screwdriver needs to be angled towards the door skin to find the screw. I spent a good 20 minutes probing around until I discovered both of those little nuggets.

2) The door card pulls straight out from the door - don't try to lift it like you do on many cars.

3) If you remove the window mechanisim from the splash plate then you don't need to cut all the loom cable clamps - you can just 'fold' the plate into the footwell to provide access, keeping the loom attached to it.

4) Perhaps it should be obvious, but in order to angle the rear window regulator arm forwards the window has to be removed, and the nut securing the top of the regulator arm also has to be removed.

5) Once the lock is removed from the car, then to separate the bulk of the gubbins from the latch assembly requires drilling out a pop rivet - a 6mm drill did this neatly. You then need a very short 5mm or 6mm bolt and nut to reattach.

All of the above on a 2010 XKR Cabriolet, just in case that makes any difference.

Thanks again for your post, I couldn't have done this job without it.

Tony

 

I wanted to edit the above to read "Three years on" but I have no edit button. If a Mod would like to do that for me I'd appreciate it.

 

Welcome to the forums TonyQJ,

DONE.

Please read the guidance for new members ( https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/n...ned-up-241802/ ) which answers many of the most frequent questions about getting started.

Graham