I flew halfway across the country to buy this car. The dealer promised me there were no issues. I negotiated the price before I left home. I get here and find this. I'm not sure what I'm going to do.

 

LOW BATTERY! ..... probably.
Get it charged and then do a Hard Reset, see if it comes back.
I was at a Jag dealer to get a new Smart Key programmed and when I got it back it had that E-Diff fault and a Dynamic System fault. I pitched a fit at the Service desk and they tried to sell me a new battery for $424, I said NO! and left, knowing it was probably the battery charge.
Well, I got home (about 50 miles) and charged the battery for about twelve hours (which included a Hard Reset). Checked it, All Clear. Nothing ever came back.

Maybe a possibility to get a few hundred $$$ knocked off??? Or maybe a full tank o' High-Test?


Or, there's always the possibility that the E-Diff is jakked. I'd guess not though.

 

What year? That led to mine having to be replaced on my 2010.
The only not-so-bad news for me, as I was driving across country at the time, was that I was told it was basically no longer an electronic differential. It was now old-school, and as long as I didn't try any fancy driving I'd be OK till I could leave the car at a dealer.
SYMPTOM: a slight "shuddering" feeling from the rear end on accelerating turns, most noticeable from low speeds (city driving, hitting the gas as you turn left at, say, 20mph as you would to pass a car or, as is common in LA, you're in a lane that's almost stopped because someone's trying to parallel park and you're trying to swiftly merge into the left lane)-- and, of course, turning from a stop. This was when it was most noticeable to me: accelerating right turns from a stop sign. FYI: I was told it was the "tires" at first. Light didn't go on until about 1500 miles into my drive.

Having said all that: yeah, if you don't have the symptoms I'm describing it's very likely the battery.

 

I got the dealer to knock off $1500. I'm about to head home. I hope it makes it.

 

Good luck to ya. How far is your journey?
Or should I say "was" your journey because you'll probably be home before you read this.

 

I've had the fluid to do a Diff-Fluid change for about ten months now, I've just never got to a lift to DO it. Maybe I'll suck it up and get a shop near me to do it using my stuff. Can only be like $100 or so labor, if that.
I'll have to tell dude that the refill is by QUANTITY and not by 'drips out the hole' like most vehicles.

 

Happened to mine and it turned out to be the electronic motor for the e-diff.

 

You'll be fine. Like I said, I drove about 1,000 miles with the light on, no problem.

 

However far it is from Kansas City, Missouri to Raleigh North Carolina.

That sucks. That's the most expensive part to replace. I'm kind of hoping it's a fuse or something.

I think Kansas City to Raleigh is more than a thousand miles, but I'm a little more than halfway. No problems so far. However, a couple of other minor issues have popped up. I guess I'll be dealing with those sometime in the future.

On a positive note, I discovered that this car has adaptive cruise control! That's awesome! It works great, too, however the warning light keeps coming on for some reason. That's one of the other glitches I need to figure out.

 

Yep, every 2010 has Adaptive Cruise. Mine surprised me when a guy cut in front of me and my brakes about threw me through the windshield.

 

Well...I made it home. It was about a twenty hour drive including stops to get gas and grab a bite to eat. The car drove fine. The e-diff wasn't an issue other than that ugly warning smack dab in the middle of the instrument panel.

Two different people drove up beside me and obviously wanted to race. Does this happen a lot? They kept gunning their engines and then slowing down to get beside me. One was a Plasti-dipped Honda with a fart can and who knows what other "performance enhancements". The other was a newer Camaro. I easily smoked them both.

 

Hopefully the whole the edif issue is easily correted and it is great you had a long drive to get to know your new (to you) Jag!

I use to ablige them when they would pull up wanting to complete in my 07. Now I simply smile, drive on, and wish them luck with their next ticket. I'm cofortable with my ride, and racing is best done on a track that doesn't endanger others. (that doesn't rule out spirited driving though) lol

 

Sounds like a fun ride and hope the e-diff is a cheap fix. You should also get used to the go peddle with these cars as the rear seems to want to step out under hard acceleration. So get used to it before you nail the peddle especially if there is a little water on the road. As for the boy racers I just smile and drive on as the cost of the rear tires isn't worth the show . Enjoy and have fun. How about some pictures .

 

^ ^ What he said! ^ ^

 

ALSO, to clear the "ugly warning smack dab in the middle of the instrument panel", touch the little red triangle on the lower edge of the Touch Screen towards right-of-center and a "Clear Warning" will come up.
Glad ya made it back with no further issues.

 

Well, where's the pictures?

Is it the original battery? You may want to go for new battery at some point and they're not expensive. Many are going to AGM style batteries. Do you have a CTEK charger? They're must for any niche car IMO.

20 hours is some drive! I've never driven the long. Good for you! Enjoy your Jag

 

ARE YOU SERIOUS???

 

Have you started looking in the garage from time to time to admire it yet? I still do after years of ownership!
Looks good!

 

Here's an overview of the E-Diff in the XKR. It's is produced by GKN Driveline in the UK, it's a variant of the ETM Electronic Torque Management product line.
Was first seen in the Land Rovers, the Discovery 3, Range Rover Sport and the Vogue from 2006MY, and eventually ended up in the 5.0L supercharged Jags as well.







There are limited spare parts available from Jaguar, and I have yet to find internal parts available from GKN in the aftermarket.


As the E-Diff is controlled by a separate module (DLM), you need a suitable scan tool to talk to that module, and read the codes. If not SDD then an iCarsoft or my Autel MD802 can do it too.
There are 40-odd codes which can be reported by the DLM, without getting those codes you are really shooting in the dark as to what the reason for the fault message is.
The workshop manual for the 2010MY-onward cars which is available online outlines each of those faults, and what the usual causes and remedies are.

I have some experience with E-Diff problems in Range Rovers, and it's not fun. One in particular was very frustrating, a Range Rover Sport with 140'000 miles, the fault codes and technical bulletins pointed to a replacement actuator motor being needed. Fitted a new one, ran the calibration routines (using SDD, I don't know any other tool which can do the diff calibration), and the same faults came back. I suspect in that case it was the clutch plates themselves were too far worn, so the motor was turning too far, in which case the only option is a complete replacement diff, since nobody I could find was able to supply a rebuild kit or clutch plates. In that car we just disabled the E-Diff function in the Car Configuration File, unplugged the module and let it run like an open diff, no more faults on the dash means "problem solved".

 

Thanks for all of the info. I guess I need to get the SDD software and cable. And a computer that can run Windows XP Professional.