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Starting a new thread because I know some people don't look at ones that have been going for a while.
Anyway, had a coolant leak. Had to take off coolant assembly and replace it. Done and then went to drive the car but I'm getting "cannot apply parking brake." It gives me the press brake and apply parking brake." Then I get the cannot be done message. Tried the calibration and still didn't work. Battery was charged over night so it's not a low battery. When I unplug the battery and then try again I can hear the emergency brake engaging but then get the error. Any ideas? It sounds like it's working all the way up to actually engaging.
Yeah unfortunately that typically signifies a defect in the parking brake module. Need the codes to help you further and a generic code reader won't catch the module codes.
You can try one thing first. Disconnect the battery cables. Once disconnected, hold the positive and negative cables together for a minute. This basically resets your systems. Touch the candles together only after completely disconnecting them from the battery. (sorry for the extra warning but it can't be emphasized enough.)
If you have the same problem after reconnecting the battery, next steps will be determined based on the codes you provide.
You also mention battery charged overnight. There are two defects related to overcharged and undercharged module voltage.
Please get us the codes and in the interim, can you tell us why you charged the battery overnight?
Sean, I'll do the steps you said. Headed to pick up a code reader now. Since I am and have disconnected the battery will I still have the faults stored. I know yesterday at one point it said brake fault but I haven't seen that same thing since.
The only reason I trickle charged the battery was because I didn't drive it for a few days while I was fixing the coolant leak. I wanted to make sure it hadn't lost it's charge and that's why I was getting the brake fault. I know this car can be fickle when it comes to a battery.
So I think I may be the idiot here. A couple of months ago I changed my front pads but not the back ones. I decided to check them out just now and they're very low, as in too low and should have been changed when the front were changed which were also too far gone and should have been changed earlier. Would this cause the epb to not stay engaged?
So I think I may be the idiot here. A couple of months ago I changed my front pads but not the back ones. I decided to check them out just now and they're very low, as in too low and should have been changed when the front were changed which were also too far gone and should have been changed earlier. Would this cause the epb to not stay engaged?
Don't know but it makes sense. Is there a wear sensor there in the 2007s?
Well it wasn't the pads but they needed to be changed so that's taken care of. I did notice on the passenger side something on the EPB line. There is a plastic piece about 2 inches before it connects to the brake. The plastic piece basically holds it in place and can be squeezed so it will go out of the other side. Well my plastic piece is broken and half of one side is missing. I don't think it would hinder the movement and wouldn't not help because it's on the end side so when the brake is pulled it's not pushed against. But maybe there is something to that.
When I first pull up on the EPG I can hear it like normal and sounds like it's working but then it releases.
Also, I had to completely remove my caliper. They were both the hardest I've ever had to get to push back in. I had to pop them both with a hammer.
yeah I think I mentioned a generic code reader won't work. These will be Jaguar specific codes. You need a Jaguar code reader.
Personally, I'd recommend the OEM VCM. Cambo is one of the site's coordinators and he sells used ones.
There are other codes readers out there that will read Jag codes but the cheap ones are just that. You get what you pay for there.
So you said you did a hard reset or just disconnected the battery and reconnected.
When resetting the battery (hard reset), disconnect both battery leads and touch them together to fully discharge all control module capacitors.
A hard reset does not repair a fault condition. It simply brings all control modules back to their baseline condition.
Also:
If new rear brake pads have been installed, pressure must be applied to the brake pedal a minimum of five times prior to calibration of the parking brake system.
To calibrate the parking brake system:
1 . Place gear selector lever in 'P' Park position.
2 . Release parking brake cable tension to service position. Parking Brake Cable Tension Release
3 . Set the ignition status to 'ON'.
4 . Apply and hold the footbrake then pull up the parking brake switch.
5 . To release the parking brake, apply and hold the footbrake then release and press down the parking brake switch.
Sean, after the pad change I did the hard reset but still didn't work.
I also messed up saying the calipers were stuck. It was the piston in the calipers that was stuck. It wouldn't move at all until I popped it with a hammer, several times. Could that affect the EPB?
That piston is supposed to be screwed back in, not pressed in, I hope you didn't just mash the daylights out of it.
Screwed being the key word here. If you didn't rent a caliper retraction tool from the auto parts store, you will probably have to replace the rear calipers.
You would greatly benefit from this manual:
Download is free but consider donating as we all benefit from him making these available to us.
Scroll down the page to where you see the Jaguar XK service manual.
Great, I'm sure I did mess the caliper up. I do have the service manual but did not see the procedure to screw it back in. Damnitt!
So here is the passenger side EPB cable. The pic you see is the clip that holds the cable in place just before it connects to the caliper. The more I look at it the more I think this might be my problem. I'm getting ready to go back out and test it while I watch this clip to see if it moves a lot.
I'm getting ready to go back out and test it while I watch this clip to see if it moves a lot.
It doesn't really matter- the cable assembly is toast as the rubber bellows keeping out moisture and crud is also missing. That's why the exposed end of the inner cable is rusted and probably seized leading to the EPB fault warning.
It doesn't really matter- the cable assembly is toast as the rubber bellows keeping out moisture and crud is also missing. That's why the exposed end of the inner cable is rusted and probably seized leading to the EPB fault warning.
does anyone if it's possible to buy just the rh side cable or do they just come in one kit with the motor and both cables?
EPB
