Hi Folks.
After reading numerous threads on what hardware to use with SDD on my 2013 XK, I decided on getting a Jaguar approved DA Dongle. It came down to my willingness over whether to take on the risk of potential problems while using a knockoff on the car which i hold so dear vs piece of mind by getting an approved DA Dongle. Knowing that problems can find Jaguars easily without any help, I wanted to eliminate the potential for disaster and got the real deal. I must say that being from Canada, the thing cost quite a bit, however its worth the piece of mind and viewed it as a 1-off cost for maintenance/preventative medicine.

I should clarify that I dont need to flash any modules or complete any other maintenance at this time. I know that just by connecting to SDD my VIN should auto populate and maybe thats enough but it would be great if someone could recommend something straight forward with little impact or risk just to test that the DA Dongle is working. I should also share that I have SDD 1.67 working on a VM now but plan to install either through dual boot installed on Win 10 LTSC or standalone PC later. and have a 50 amp power supply but not planning to use it to test the DA Dongle unless needed. I currently have SDD 1.67 obtained from another Jaguar forum.

Thanks in Advance

***Special shout out of thanks to CeeJay who has responded in many threads to the question of risks associated with using a clone vs DA Dongle. His points were really helpful in my decision making process.

 

Just run a dtc check. From there you’ll get some recommendations. You can browse from there. Good way to start

 

I have a Mongoose clone from China. I did a charcoal canister test (worked and passed). I had a 15 amp charger on and the car was pulling the full 15 A. I think you'd be better with some supplemental power just in case. At some point I'll get a 50 amp supply.

 

I have the SDD and a mongoose cable, the thing is though the SDD software does seem dated, I have used it to add keys successfully and run diagnostics but go frustrated with it when trying the determine the error I have on mine. It just says 'invalid signal from speed control module' and cannot get more details out of it. As I have different cars I don't want to be adding top the collection I have and also have old operating systems to support these tools. For the list:

I have a foxwell NT510?, I have the fully unlocked Ross tech software for Audi and respective cable (£450+), JLR SDD and mongoose to name a few

I had been looking at Autel, Icarsoft and comparing but finally settled on Xtool d8W (can program keys and does all cars) and is wireless dongle which is handy if you need to drive and doo a live test. Using this on my car it gave me way more details on the issues, I had already replace the speed control module, all wheel speed sensors but using this it told me the issue is with the forward looking radar, which I now have sat here ready to fit weather permitting. It also told me in great detail other issues which I had and idea about but this confirmed it, which is to do with fuel pressure as I know I have weeps on the fuel dampers and have the replacements sat here ($49 each from injector planet in the USA) better than the £172 each from Jaguar or the £1000+ per fuel rail.

So SDD does give information but not as much as you can get maybe its because of the Topix communication but thought I would give insight here

 

Thanks Sean. Maybe a silly question, but does the car need to be running to pull DTCs? I ask because I also have an Autel and when I tried to check for error codes the car power would stop in the middle of the session and I wouldnt get a full response.

- Appreciate the heads up. I guess it never hurts to add the power supply since I have one.

- Thanks. Perhaps its the version of software youre using? I understand that Jaguar may not be putting any effort into SDD and that may be an issue for sure. Seems there should be support for our cars especially since I read that we can download 'as built' files in the event of modules needing flashing. I also recall reading somewhere that the maker of the original Mongoose cable discontinued their product due to technical issues with SDD. This could be your issue. I could be mistaken though.

 

Thanks for the feedback I can confirm my SDD is up to date, can read the dtc messages, clear codes all that stuff its just the details it gives on a potential issue. even when analysis a particular module. For example SDD complained it could not test the speed control module (it could test others), but would allow calibration of it and my adaptive cruise does work when I have used it. So its just that detail hence why I bought something different for consolidation, I don't want a windows 10 machine and have to use Internet explorer to use diagnostic software

 

No you start SDD with either the ignition off or on, but car not running. It will tell you when to put your ignition in acc (position2) or off while it does its thing. Yes you can run the engine when capturing live data.

The biggest thing to be aware of is having the proper power supply as @McJag222 mentions. Second, you will see service recommendations to update modules from time to time. Many recommendations do not apply to your vehicle. There are a few thousand cars in SDD. If you see a Module update request, look for the TSB or leave it alone.

 

Thank you. I do have a 13.8v, 50amp power supply and will use it. Because I have a 2013 MY, would you recommend attaching the negative directly to the negative battery post or to ground? I ask because this is how I have my ctek charger set up because of the battery monitor. Thanks

 

Great question and with BMS, you want to use a ground point. I don't have BMS in my model year but had it a couple Mercedes. The negative cable on the jaguar has a shunt (sensor) which measures both the charging current and consumption current. Use the ground point. Here's the logic - if you bypass the BMS, you could confuse SDD into what the actual state of charge is. That can't happen when programming modules. Each module requires a specific minimum voltage and before proceeding, SDD will then tell you how much voltage you need and what you have. If you bypass the BMS, you "might' be sending SDD an inaccurate voltage reading. that's the extent of BMS in my mind. It pertained to cars past and most stuff leaves my brain pretty quickly so others might chime in, but logic tells me don't bypass a device intended for that purpose.

Also, once you get in and run a doc check, you'll see tabs that offer recommendations. Take some snap shots and post them here with questions.

 

Ok so I hooked everything up and wanted to ask before I go any further about the battery indicator. The top right corner of the software shows a 'green' battery indicator but it's only green accross half in an angle on the right side. Review of the session indicated 'connected ok'. Is this what I'm supposed to see? Note the pic below shows grey because the pic was taken after disconnecting but you get the idea.
Can you also please clarify what you mean by 'run a doc check'? Thanks!

 

@themorningman I don't get the diagonal on my battery. It's either all green, all yellow or red. The "doc" check was typed DTC check and autocorrect made the change.

 

Thanks Sean for responding and clarifying re dtc. I wonder if the battery indicator differs because I'm using v1.67. I'll keep digging around.

 

That would be my guess as the it's written down lower that the battery is OK. Running a DTC check isn't much pull on the battery and only takes a couple of minutes. You really want to ensure power supply when modifying a module or replacing it or enabling an available feature. When you attempt those, SDD will say something to the effect of "this task requires 12.94 volts. Your battery is 13.8 volts. Do you which to proceed?'

 

That's great info. Thanks again.

 

Here are some best practices

 

Be aware that Injector Planet's black orings provided on the fuel rail side are unsuitable for the XK (I'm assuming you're working on a 4.2 NA), as they shrink/harden/leak over several years. Mine began to leak fuel around the rail gasket onto the engine top. Order vitron orings, about $10 online and replace all 16 rings. I did injector top and bottom with the vitron. Also, Injector Planet's replacements are either used/remanufactured ford units, or might be chinese replacements. I used the remanufactured Ford ones (they have the ford PN on them, tan colored, 4 hole for the X150 NA version). All that said, except for the black oring problem, the remans have served me well for 5 years. $50 each as I recall. Good luck. Panthera.