Gorilla tape will fix it.

 

So, overcame two problems here. One was the pinhole leak in the hose (shortened it an inch) and secondly the rubber coupling fell apart. The coupling sucked. It's 3.5"on one end and 3.75" on the other within 1.5" of length. A 3" rubber Fernco fitting worked for me once I turned it inside out so the molded lip to hold the hose clamp instead kept the T fitting from popping out of the rubber. I did cut it down to length.


This way didn't work. I needed to flip it inside out so the letters were on the inside. If you ever get this far you'll understand. LoL

As you can see the fitting looks pretty stock.

Oh yeah, while this stuff is off I was able to reach down and feel the duckbill. Mine is MIA

 

Neat adaptation of the Fernco. Great!

 

Question on this fix. I know these fittings used in plumbing to join various pipes, but as far as I know they are not designed for high temperatures. Are you concerned about accelerated plastic and rubber degradation? Also wouldn't you want to use copper to copper one instead?

 

I think it'll be OK as that area stays below 200`. I'm on the lookout for a silicone based one but the lip on the T fitting is a mother to overcome and I think it'll spit out like it did with the straight walled rubber one. It was kicking my butt all over the place and I about gave up before deciding to flip it inside out.

I think the worst that will happen is I'll get an non metered air CEL pop up if it lets go. It's hard to tell hos long the old one had been falling apart.

 

I think they look darn good for a better transplant. Good idea!

 

So, knock on wood, nothing has fallen apart since Wednesday. Commute has been interesting. The engine turns around 3k, right where the exhaust has a really mellow burble. It's not a bad sound although it's right at the break over point where it'll get loud quick under load. I find it's not very comfortable to run above 90 though. It just feel like it's buzzing the motor more than needed.

I'm also managing almost 20 mpg versus 20.5 with 3.31's. My commute is @ 3 miles of normal roads and 25 of high speed on the interstate. Not horrible and better than my old blown 5.0 mustang with 3.55's which managed 18 running @75-80. Faster and it felt unhappy because the wheels were bent.

 

Great, just great. What am I suppose to read now for entertainment?

 

Well done Ranchero,

Thanks for keeping us all abreast! I prefer the 3000 rpm cruise and typically downshift to keep it near there. But you are right, it can get loud quickly... then again, its music to my ears.

Now I'm left wondering.. with that diff replacement of yours, its there an LSD option cheaper than Quaife's? Hmmm.
And I am with SinF, now what am I going to read ;-)

 

The 8" rear is a hybrid of mostly 8.8" ring gear Ford rear's parts with a smaller 8" ring gear. The 8.8 housing uses two main caps. The 8" housing uses a snap ring on the unloaded side (see sludge pic above) and a cap on the loaded side. This allows Ford / Jag to run a narrower chunk in that space. The problem is the cheap and easily available 8.8" traction lock carrier is squared off where the 8" one tapers on the unloaded side (to hold the friction plates etc) and there isn't enough room in the 8" housing for the 8.8" T/L to fit. The pre '03 Lincoln LS's use a true 8.8" dual cap rear and I think they'll fit in our sub frame. However I'm not sure about the half shaft length. I think they'll fit but need to compare a 8" chunk to a 8.8" chunk. I have at least one out back in a spare 8.8" Mustang rear. I do need to find out if the 8" uses a 28 or 31 spline axle shaft.

Notice the axle seal width difference between these housings compared to the rear cover mounting bolts. It looks like the early car needs a shorter half shaft on the one side.

Older:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2000-2001-2...gAAOxy9eVRW05M



Newer:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/LINCOLN-LS-...a093ab15de7a9b



This is stuff I planned on investigating before the rear blew up. Honestly I haven't had the rear break loose or at least noticed the ECU shutting down the power when it does break loose a little. I also don't beat on it from a stop or turning at a light. I think the car handles better without the posi. My nose heavy 3400lb 5.0 used to break the tires loose too easily. Letting loose in 4th gear at 4k is "interesting".

 

There' a few threads with a suitable coupler. Including on my supercharger removal thread.

siliconeintakes.com sells it. I like it since you can easily remove just the t -piece now without tearing anything or worrying about applying to much pressure.

 

Anything can fit anywhere if you have a grinder, welder and metal saw.

 

A more remedial question Ranchero. I thought I replaced my differential fluid a couple years ago but I didn't. Spec is M2C 192A Synthetic which I think Valvoline 75w-90 meets. What did you use?

 

Mobil 1 Synthetic. It had the alternative grading. I didn't see anything on the Valvoline they had at A/Z.

 

I'll eventually go silicone but for $7 Lowes got me back on the road within an hour of finding the problem.

 

When I was in my early 20's, I sold tools on the road for a summer. In Fort Dodge, IA, I ran into Don Prudhomme's transmission mechanic, who was eyeing my Dodge Challenger SE Brougham out front of the sale. He offered to do some work on it - he was bored and it wasn't drag racing season - so I traded him $120 worth of tools @ my cost and turned him loose on the car.

He brought it back a few nights later and said, "Let's go for a spin". I went to hop in the driver's door - on my own car - and he insisted on driving for the first leg. Smart move.

We took off on the highway out of town and he stomped on it. At 93 mph the car "banged" into 3rd gear and the back tires broke loose. I don't remember much after that as all of the blood rushed straight to my *****.

Sold the car a few months later before I killed myself in it. Pics of the monster shown below ...

 

I like the looks of the '73's, but of course my favorite is the '69.

 

So, it's been a while. Dang car just keeps purring along. This Covid thing has freed up some space on the roads and my average speed over the past 3500 miles is 59 mph. New job thanks to posting some complimentary pics on Facebook but it's all good. I did make a mid life crisis decision and started building a model A speedster, chassis from salvage, body from scratch.





Back to the Jag though, need to find some coils and gas shocks for the hood. Also noticed that the aftercooler wasn't cool while getting fuel after the trip home today. Good times.

Most recent pics after having a flat at work which required some new sneakers from Tirerack...

I keep hitting the peeling clear with gloss lacquer and I painted the inside of the tips flat black so I didn't feel compelled to clean them weekly.

 

Heck with Jag stuff, hope to see you and this Speedster at a future cruise-in when life gets better! Looks like a very Kool project.
Good Luck.....

This is my, more modern, Speedster, only it has hooves....LOL!

Early May '64 build cvt.

Dual 40 MM DCOE Webers

 

good to see you back onboard ranch !

When you say coils I your talking about coil packs not coil springs ??